Wheel Bearings

[rarebear.nm]

I think we're splitting hairs now.

Multiaxle trailers are subjected to axial forces at the bearings that are different from vehicles with a steer axle. I think direct comparison between bearings in vehicles and trailers makes no sense. Cars and trucks have used sealed bearings for decades. Trailers may have either sealed bearings or more standard tapered bearings as an inner and outer bearing. I had Never-Lube bearings on my 5th and all four failed due to axial forces. I will never have sealed bearings on a trailer again.

Look at interply forces in the sidewall of radial tires, you'll see that this force gets transferred to wheel's bearing. I simply subscribe to the idea to follow the mfgs. service procedures what ever they maybe. Pretty simple.

[lynnmor]

Of course all the ideas and suggestions have no merit when using cheap, junk Chinese bearings and grease that separates. I have had those cheap incorrectly manufactured bearings fail in 8,000 miles. YMMV

[PhoneDude 8289]

On my 4K dexter axels dexter instructions are after cleaning inspecting and repacking tighten the castle nut to 50#' while rotating the wheel, stop rotation, back off the castle nut, tighten finger tight and replace the retainer. I have did it this way twice the last time replacing all bearings with timken bearings and races. So far all is good. Old bearings still looked good but just did not trust the OE no name bearings any longer.

[rarebear.nm]

I suppose most folks that trade-in their RVs every 2 to 3 years and don't put on high milage, none of this even matters. They probably ignore most maintenance and leave it deferred for the next owner. Of course there's those folks that put off maintenance until something breaks and deals with it then. Since we plan on keeping our current RV for a long time, I work hard to keep it up and serviced the way I think is best.

Just different approaches for different folks, I guess whatever works for you.

Be safe and have fun...

[TeJay]

manwithnorv,

Well guess what if you can just barely feel some tire movement then you are pretty darn close to the correct specs. You may not believe it but it really does work. Maybe 40+ years of doing it that way is enough proof. Or just ask how many techs really use a dial indicator to check for correct WB clearances.

I'll also agree with the brand of bearings. While I prefer American made TOYO makes a good bearing. After all following WWII they began shipping a ton of motorcycles to the US and still do. Then there's the Honda vehicles. They have a lot of experience with making bearings and I've had good luck with them.

[Povo]

Made an appointment to have the bearings repacked at our local (and reputable) RV service center (not the dealer where I bought it). They called a while after I dropped it off and said after pulling the tires and inspecting the hubs they couldn't in good conscience to the work as there was no need. We agreed that next year I should plan on it but this year they still looked like new. They said they hand pack and do a complete inspection as compared to just replacing. Job would have been about $200 (four wheels).

[rarebear.nm]

I assume you have drum brakes opposed to disk brakes. That price sounds fair. Is there any brake adjustments done while the drum is off?

Frequently with drum brakes they pull the wheel and hub as a single unit- very simple. With disk brakes the wheels must be pulled first then remove the calibers and then the hub, little more work and cost.

[allenb12]

I just dropped my trailer off to have the bearings repacked. $190.00

[grindstone01]

I DIYS repack the FW bearings once a year which is about 10k miles and they usually seem like they could have gone another year easily. However, while checking the brakes, wiring, and seals I usually find something else that needs repair. Every year I say I'm always glad I took the time to grease/inspect the bearings. Besides, it's a good time to practice changing a tire with the tools I carry.

[TeJay]

grindstone01,

That IMHO is exactly the reason the TT manufacturers specifically advocate all owners to inspect and pack all TT wheel bearings annually. The other parts are more prone to issues before the bearings.

For the most part TT (camping facilities without a motor) brakes/tires are marginal in their ability to carry and stop the weight. Many are drum based on the higher cost of a hydraulic disc brake system. Based on that it is a good idea to inspect them annually.

Secondly, which was my original reason for not thinking I should be doing TT brake inspections annually, is all rear wheel drive (RWD) vehicles required bearing packs at the same time we serviced the pads/rotors and that was usually in the 35,000 to 40,000 mile range. The bearings can go longer but not the other parts.

[Rolfsted]

Disclaimer: All suggestions in this thread cannot be used in a court of law.

[grindstone01]

Originally Posted by Rolfsted

Disclaimer: All suggestions in this thread cannot be used in a court of law.

No, but it can prevent you the experience of sitting along side the road scratching your head as to what to do next!

[chunker]

I'll add my $.02. If you repack then you can inspect them. My GF bought a 2012PT Crusader and I checked the bearings when I replaced the tires. ALL the outer bearing were pitted and spalling. ALL were chinese bearing junk. I replaced with good US bearings and seals. Hand packed with correct grease.

[mobilemike]

Originally Posted by rarebear.nm

I think we're splitting hairs now.

Multiaxle trailers are subjected to axial forces at the bearings that are different from vehicles with a steer axle. I think direct comparison between bearings in vehicles and trailers makes no sense. Cars and trucks have used sealed bearings for decades. Trailers may have either sealed bearings or more standard tapered bearings as an inner and outer bearing. I had Never-Lube bearings on my 5th and all four failed due to axial forces. I will never have sealed bearings on a trailer again.

Look at interply forces in the sidewall of radial tires, you'll see that this force gets transferred to wheel's bearing. I simply subscribe to the idea to follow the mfgs. service procedures what ever they maybe. Pretty simple.

There are some differences between TT and truck forces. And some similarities.


First off the service interval of the TT wheel bearings is dew to the severe duty cycle they are under. By that I mean they are loaded to max capacity for the axle rating. The bearings are supporting the max load they are designed for. A truck does not usually carry GVW loads 100% of the time.



As for axial forces the trailer incurs as apposed to a truck I disagree. Every time you turn the front wheels especially on a long wheel base the front tires and hubs and bearings are being pushed in the plane opposite of rotation. That happens far more often and under power on a TT. For proof take a look at the outside edge of your trucks front tires. They are rounded off for this very reason. The outside edge of the tire is constantly scrubbed off by the force of the rear axel pushing the front wheel assembly off of its rotational plane.