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Old 02-13-2012, 07:16 PM   #1
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Wheel Lugs & Nuts

Recently purchased a brand new Crusader 270 5th Wheel Coach. Before leaving on our first trip, I pulled the center caps off the factory Aluminum 16" Wheels in an effort to torque the wheel nuts. What I found gave me somewhat of a surprise. The lug bolts did not come all the through the lug nuts on every wheel on every lug bolt! When I questioned the dealer about this condition, I was told this was normal. I find that hard to believe and would appreciate your opinions on this condition. It just does not look proper to me having two or more threads showing through the lug nut, and yes they have all been properly torqued to 100# each..
Help with your opinion...
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Old 02-13-2012, 07:50 PM   #2
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It sounds like it was originally intended for steel wheels, that's common place to see that.
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Old 02-13-2012, 11:57 PM   #3
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Quote:
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It sounds like it was originally intended for steel wheels, that's common place to see that.
x2 also stud is 1/2 in diameter. You have more than 1/2 in of thd secured
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:37 AM   #4
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Wheel Lug Nuts and Bolts

so, do that mean they need to be changed or to use a different lug nut...not having the lug bolts come all the way out thru the nut really bugs me!
thanks

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It sounds like it was originally intended for steel wheels, that's common place to see that.
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:54 AM   #5
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When you see just about all the Class A gassers with aluminum wheels on the rear and steel inside that's how most of them end up with the stud just barely flush with the nut. I have no problem dealing with them that way.
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:32 AM   #6
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Back in the day when I was in the trucking business, you did not put aluminum rims on a hub made for steel wheels. You could put steel wheels on a hub used for aluminum rims though. You should check to see if your rims are "Hub Pilot" or "Stud Pilot". If they are "Stud Pilot" then you should NOT mount aluminum rims without changing to a longer & different grade wheel stud. If you do not change the studs then you are leaving yourself open to possible stud breakage & possible wheel off failure. IMHO you dealer does not know of what he speaks.

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Old 08-20-2012, 05:59 AM   #7
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How do you tell if you have Stud Piloted or Hub Piloted ? I understand the difference between the two but have never taken a wheel off (new to RV'ing) and am curious. I have a 2001 Monaco HR Pusher and purchased it used without a spare wheel and tire - need one before upcoming trip. Thanks.
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Old 08-20-2012, 09:50 AM   #8
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A stud pilot wheel will have a lug nut with a tapper where it contacts the wheel, whereas a hub pilot wheel will have like a flat washer attached to the lug nut where it contacts the wheel and it would have a squared off portion on the hub so the wheel is aligned when bolted down.
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Old 08-20-2012, 10:18 AM   #9
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I'm certainly no engineer, but it just doesn't sound like a good thing that all the threads of the nuts are not in contact with the studs. If it's because the aluminum wheel is thicker than steel at that location, then it seems reasonable that longer studs should have been installed in the hub to accomodate the thicker wheel. I would start looking for engineering data to support that if I were you. I think the dealer is feeding you a line of BS.
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Old 08-20-2012, 11:40 AM   #10
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As a retired electronics engineer, my mechanical engineering is a little rusty, but I do recall that in a nut & bolt connection, most of the load is taken up by the first two threads. Maximum strength is achieved by engaging a length of thread equal to approximately 60% of the nominal bolt diameter.

For a typical 1/2 - 13 bolt, 60% of the diameter is 0.3". With 13 threads per inch, each thread is .077". Thus, maximum strength is achieved with the engagement of 4 ( actually 3.9) threads. Any additional thread engagement does not add to the strength.

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Old 08-20-2012, 12:34 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnRR
A stud pilot wheel will have a lug nut with a tapper where it contacts the wheel, whereas a hub pilot wheel will have like a flat washer attached to the lug nut where it contacts the wheel and it would have a squared off portion on the hub so the wheel is aligned when bolted down.
Thanks. I will check it out tonight.
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Old 08-20-2012, 12:45 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arctic Owl View Post
Back in the day when I was in the trucking business, you did not put aluminum rims on a hub made for steel wheels. You could put steel wheels on a hub used for aluminum rims though. You should check to see if your rims are "Hub Pilot" or "Stud Pilot". If they are "Stud Pilot" then you should NOT mount aluminum rims without changing to a longer & different grade wheel stud. If you do not change the studs then you are leaving yourself open to possible stud breakage & possible wheel off failure. IMHO you dealer does not know of what he speaks.

Reg
A year or so ago I changed from all steel wheels to Alcoa wheels (along with new tires). There was no difference in the hubs needed for steel wheels vs aluminum. The new wheels were thicker but the studs were still much longer than needed.
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