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Old 09-04-2016, 06:44 PM   #15
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There is another reason, it is still easier to hook up with a conventional fifth wheel hitch because of greater misalignment tolerances.
The first couple of times I used mine it took a couple of times but now I hit it every time. I can see the ball from my mirror so it is very easy. I did have to take the head rest out in the back seat. (Middle one) but nobody ever sat there anyways LOL.
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Old 09-04-2016, 07:20 PM   #16
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X2 took out middle seat head rest. Hit it every time. Love being to take it out in <5min. So quiet and solid, it's really hard to believe. Best hitch on market. IMHO
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Old 09-04-2016, 08:47 PM   #17
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There is another reason, it is still easier to hook up with a conventional fifth wheel hitch because of greater misalignment tolerances.
The current Andersen ships with a new design that adds a funnel to the ball drop and this makes tough hookup alignment issues a thing of the past. I have had both the old type and now the new one. With the funnel I seldom if ever need to take additional attempts to hitch.
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Old 09-05-2016, 01:27 AM   #18
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I don't like the aluminum "coupler" riding on a steel ball. And, a cable to lock and unlock the hitch? Plus, only 4 set screws holding the "coupler" in place while backing up on steep or uneven terrain?
I'll stick with my PullRite Superglide. Only takes 5-10 minutes to remove or install with my fold up cherry picker.
And, the extra weight in the bed tames down the ride around town after we unhook at the camp ground.
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Old 09-05-2016, 01:44 AM   #19
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The current Andersen ships with a new design that adds a funnel to the ball drop and this makes tough hookup alignment issues a thing of the past. I have had both the old type and now the new one. With the funnel I seldom if ever need to take additional attempts to hitch.
Any current Andersen hitch owner can get the alignment plate for free. It's easy to add on.

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I don't like the aluminum "coupler" riding on a steel ball. And, a cable to lock and unlock the hitch? Plus, only 4 set screws holding the "coupler" in place while backing up on steep or uneven terrain?
I'll stick with my PullRite Superglide. Only takes 5-10 minutes to remove or install with my fold up cherry picker.
And, the extra weight in the bed tames down the ride around town after we unhook at the camp ground.
My understanding is there isn't much rotational load so those 4 set screws hold tight. Also the ball is also aluminum, a very strong aluminum also there is some sort of liner. Do some more reading. It's the hitch I'm buying when we get our 5er.
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Old 09-05-2016, 02:06 AM   #20
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My understanding is there isn't much rotational load so those 4 set screws hold tight. Also the ball is also aluminum, a very strong aluminum also there is some sort of liner. Do some more reading. It's the hitch I'm buying when we get our 5er.[/QUOTE]

Yeah, aluminum on aluminum isn't any better.
Well, there is quite a bit of "rotational" (i.e. sideways) load when you're pushing 14,000lbs backwards up a steep incline and at a 45* angle. That's what it takes to get up my driveway and into my shop.
I had a steel tow bar on my towd when I had a motorhome and never had a problem. I've read many a story on aluminum tow bars failing. And, those tow bars are only pulling around 5,000lbs.
I'll stick with my all steel set up.
BTW, I did plenty of reading on it. Good luck with your purchase.
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Old 09-05-2016, 05:30 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by 96 Softail View Post
My understanding is there isn't much rotational load so those 4 set screws hold tight. Also the ball is also aluminum, a very strong aluminum also there is some sort of liner. Do some more reading. It's the hitch I'm buying when we get our 5er.
Yeah, aluminum on aluminum isn't any better.
Well, there is quite a bit of "rotational" (i.e. sideways) load when you're pushing 14,000lbs backwards up a steep incline and at a 45* angle. That's what it takes to get up my driveway and into my shop.
I had a steel tow bar on my towd when I had a motorhome and never had a problem. I've read many a story on aluminum tow bars failing. And, those tow bars are only pulling around 5,000lbs.
I'll stick with my all steel set up.
BTW, I did plenty of reading on it. Good luck with your purchase.[/QUOTE]

I would be interested in hearing just on failure that your talking about. As far as I have heard there isn't any. I have seen the emergency stop failure but not from backing up a slope. I have done it many times and I understand you maybe not wanting to switch from you heavy traditional, its a comfort zone. Happy Camping whatever you do.
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Old 09-05-2016, 07:46 AM   #22
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Yeah, aluminum on aluminum isn't any better.
Sorry, but there is no metal on metal contact when the ball is fully seated in the socket. The ball fits into a socket that I think may be a block of MDS Nylon, which is self lubricating. (I have made many heavy machine wear parts out of MDS Nylon and it is some amazing plastic.) After having mine for a total of 1800 miles, I am not seeing any wear at all except for the marks that are left when the "funnel" does its job to align the ball with the socket.
You also commented on the aluminum ball breaking. It would take more than an emergency stop to break it because it is short and there is minimal leverage on it. Also, I don't know this for a fact, but I would bet the material they use is not your run-of-the-mill aluminum. I would guess it to be 6061T or better. I have talked to the guys at Andersen and they seem to be very knowledgeable.
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Old 09-05-2016, 10:02 AM   #23
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The traditional hitch users that have already invested in old technology will not be persuaded to switch to a better lighter hitch. There are many people still using recurve bows and percussion firearms because they like them. To each his own. If it gets the job done, it's the right one for you.
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Old 09-05-2016, 10:35 AM   #24
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I would be interested in hearing just on failure that your talking about. As far as I have heard there isn't any. I have seen the emergency stop failure but not from backing up a slope. I have done it many times and I understand you maybe not wanting to switch from you heavy traditional, its a comfort zone. Happy Camping whatever you do.
Have to agree. The aluminum has been used to large aircraft landing gear and doesn't fail. You just have to use the right grade of aluminum.

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The traditional hitch users that have already invested in old technology will not be persuaded to switch to a better lighter hitch. There are many people still using recurve bows and percussion firearms because they like them. To each his own. If it gets the job done, it's the right one for you.
Now that I totally understand. Few will change out a complete hitch just to go to an Andersen. If you're getting a new truck and a new hitch to go with it then the Andersen may be the hitch for your. I like the advantages and will likely go with it.
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Old 09-05-2016, 11:12 AM   #25
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I have a Ram 2500 6.4L that can handle a 5th wheel. The door sticker says the load capacity is 3,076 lbs. I like that the Anderson is lighter then the older types which also helps with the capacity. The easy installation and no maintenance is great also.
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Old 09-06-2016, 08:59 AM   #26
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...Plus, only 4 set screws holding the "coupler" in place while backing up on steep or uneven terrain?...
The 4 set screws just secure the adapter block from twisting on a horizontal plane around the trailer's kingpin and even if they were to completely fall out (which there are no none cases) the Andersen would still be secure and safe to tow. It is the two large, heavy bolts that attach the adapter block to the kingpin, one bolt on each side of the kingpin.

As for the locking cable, because the trailer weight drops down onto the Andersen ball (as opposed to sliding into a plate), even if the cable were not locked at all, the trailer would have to hit a very large bounce to even clear the ball and come off. There are no known issues with fifth wheels dropping on truck beds that have the Andersen (I think there have been traditional fifth wheel hitches where the drop on truck has occurred). I have read of users forgetting to lock the cable and towing for many miles without incident.
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Old 09-06-2016, 11:40 AM   #27
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The 4 set screws just secure the adapter block from twisting on a horizontal plane around the trailer's kingpin and even if they were to completely fall out (which there are no none cases) the Andersen would still be secure and safe to tow. It is the two large, heavy bolts that attach the adapter block to the kingpin, one bolt on each side of the kingpin.

As for the locking cable, because the trailer weight drops down onto the Andersen ball (as opposed to sliding into a plate), even if the cable were not locked at all, the trailer would have to hit a very large bounce to even clear the ball and come off. There are no known issues with fifth wheels dropping on truck beds that have the Andersen (I think there have been traditional fifth wheel hitches where the drop on truck has occurred). I have read of users forgetting to lock the cable and towing for many miles without incident.
Well stated.

I would like to see a lock on the cable release so some joker can pull it when walking by you're trailer.

I'd also like to see Andersen supply a locking plate you can install when you're unhitched which would keep someone from removing the adapter then driving off with you're fiver. As it stands that adapter can be removed in 2 minutes with simple tools you can carry in your pocket.
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Old 09-06-2016, 12:46 PM   #28
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Well stated.

I'd also like to see Andersen supply a locking plate you can install when you're unhitched which would keep someone from removing the adapter then driving off with you're fiver. As it stands that adapter can be removed in 2 minutes with simple tools you can carry in your pocket.
I think you could construct something. They have pins with loops on them. The loops go on opposite sides of the adapter. You could use a chain to lock them together so that they couldn't turn to be taken off.
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