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Old 01-08-2013, 07:40 PM   #15
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HTFIREMEDIC,
I have a 2004 f250 with 42,000 miles not to many but, about 2yrs ago I was going down the road not pulling anything but,like your truck I saw it was running really Hot. So I lucked out the first time and was close to a ford dealer.It ended up being a broken hose clamp and it didn't do any damage about a year later it happen again and so happen I wasn't close to anything but, I had a cooler that was full of ice so I slowly put it in the radiator and made it to Advance Auto and did another clamp.I now check them very often.I was told at the Ford dealer you would have to just about have to let it freeze up to do a whole lot of damage.Good Luck and many safe travels.
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Old 01-09-2013, 05:19 PM   #16
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03 was the first year of the new 6.0 power joke ( I had an 05, so I can bad mouth them). Your most likely source of coolant leakage is a failed EGR cooler. The EGR cooler fails because the oil cooler and EGR cooler are cooled by engine coolant, and the coolant passes through the oil cooler before it goes through the EGR cooler. The oil cooler is a flat plate design with very small passages that eventually plug up on the coolant side. This starves the EGR cooler which usually fails when you're working the engine hard and EG Temps are high. Then you get the steam out the exhaust like a choo-choo train. I got lucky and mine was replaced with 7 days left on the 5 year warranty. Labor charged was 121 technician hours! Get any magazine dedicated to diesel trucks(8-Lug, Diesel power, etc) and you'll find full page adds for the permanent fixes for the 6.0 PSD. Bullet Proof has a good reputation and has been around a long time. I have not used their products - I solved my Ford problems when I bought a 2012 Ram with a Cummins diesel.
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:31 PM   #17
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When I traded my old 97 F250 I had a choice of my 2002 F250 7.3L or a 2005 6L for the same price. Some people thought i was crazy but the old 7.3 has given me great service. I will probably keep til I can't drive anymore. It also holds it value pretty good.
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Old 01-10-2013, 04:55 PM   #18
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Also I would like to point out that the "full synthetic" oil you mentioned is just regular "dino" oil that has had it's molecules made all the same length. Now because it is "man made" it can be call synthetic.

The "OAT/HOAT" coolant is different and specific in that it has to remove vast amounts of heat from the EGR system. It is important now to mix or use a different type of coolant. You can pretty much guaranty a plugged oil cooler with an addition of just a little green antifreeze.
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Old 01-11-2013, 11:08 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by mrv8outboard View Post
Also I would like to point out that the "full synthetic" oil you mentioned is just regular "dino" oil that has had it's molecules made all the same length. Now because it is "man made" it can be call synthetic.

The "OAT/HOAT" coolant is different and specific in that it has to remove vast amounts of heat from the EGR system. It is important now to mix or use a different type of coolant. You can pretty much guaranty a plugged oil cooler with an addition of just a little green antifreeze.
Make sure its silicate free coolant.
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Old 01-12-2013, 08:43 AM   #20
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Hybrid Organic Acid Technology = HOAT.
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Old 01-12-2013, 10:44 PM   #21
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Something to look at! I did not think about clap failure. I'll check them Monday.
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Old 01-16-2013, 02:26 PM   #22
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If I do not see evidence of coolant leaking to the ground under the vehicle then I would suspect a failed head gasket. Nothing kills an engine (and completely) faster than coolant in the engine oil. To rule this out you can have a garage do tests or if the truck can sit you can remove some of the crankcase oil and send it to a lab for testing. Sometimes the coolant shows up on the dipstick.

I wash the engine area periodically so it is clean and leaks are easier to spot. If I suspect a problem I will lay paper or cardboard underneath where I park so I can see any new deposits from a leak, even a small one.

I want to rule out first the possible areas that can damage the engine and this includes a failed head gasket. This type of problem is also often difficult to diagnose at the early stages. The last truck I had with a blown head gasket acted like it was running too rich but after taking it to three dealers and three independent garages no one could find the problem. Once it go to the stage where the engine was going through a quart of coolant in 30 miles the gasket problem was obvious.
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:00 PM   #23
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It's kind of strange. I haven't lost coolant again and have found no leaks, etc. I am wondering if there was an air blockage/bubble that held up adding after the last coolant change by my mechanic. If so... Problem solved
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:49 PM   #24
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we bought a 2003 f250 brand new at the time with the 6litre diesel. a few months later my brother who drove it noticed the oil level was high. under warantee they took the top of the motor off to try to find how the rad fluid was getting into the oil. several months later he noticed the same thing. back in again for two days. after a third incident about 6 months later we traded it in on a gas engine. they couldnt seem to find the problem . i hope this is not your problem but i would keep an eye on you oil level. if it goes up you could have serious problems.
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:58 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Davey View Post
03 was the first year of the new 6.0 power joke ( I had an 05, so I can bad mouth them). Your most likely source of coolant leakage is a failed EGR cooler. The EGR cooler fails because the oil cooler and EGR cooler are cooled by engine coolant, and the coolant passes through the oil cooler before it goes through the EGR cooler. The oil cooler is a flat plate design with very small passages that eventually plug up on the coolant side. This starves the EGR cooler which usually fails when you're working the engine hard and EG Temps are high. Then you get the steam out the exhaust like a choo-choo train. I got lucky and mine was replaced with 7 days left on the 5 year warranty. Labor charged was 121 technician hours! Get any magazine dedicated to diesel trucks(8-Lug, Diesel power, etc) and you'll find full page adds for the permanent fixes for the 6.0 PSD. Bullet Proof has a good reputation and has been around a long time. I have not used their products - I solved my Ford problems when I bought a 2012 Ram with a Cummins diesel.
Too bad you could not use the lemon law.
Mine was a 2003 6.0l and Ford bought it back.
It was 47 hours in the shop and $27,000 was charged for repair under warranty. Injectors, gasket, pushing rods, name it.
Oh, it stopped by itself, no motor no brakes nothing niet for no reasons.
Had a lot of power do and I use it with a 35 ft fifhtwheel. Scary sometimes
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Old 01-29-2013, 04:48 AM   #26
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You need to go to powerstroke forum they will pinpoint the problem. Don't do more then needed. I have towed for 6 years programed 80hp over stock and no problem other then having to replaced the oil cooler that may have eventually ruined my engine. The after market have the solution to repair Ford's mistakes.
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