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Old 06-08-2015, 09:54 PM   #1
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'14 Ram 2500 Diesel Oil Change

I watched a couple of youtube videos about this and in one the filter was visible from under the vehicle. The other showed me the bad news... I have a 4X4 and the filter's not accessible from the bottom... The filter comes out of a hole in the right fender well that's about 5" square. I got a wrap-around filter wrench on it but was only able to move it about 1/32 of a turn each time. As I was hugging the tire wrenching this thing loose, my neighbor walked up behind me and said... "Jack I know you love your truck, but this is taking it a bit too far..." I showed him what I was up against and he winced. I got it loose, and put a gallon-size baggie over it, and dropped it off the threads. I sealed the bag and pulled the filter out of the hole. Spillage was nil. The new filter goes back in pretty easy, really, but then getting it more than hand tight is another fight with the wrench. The rest is easy and for about $74- I got my oil changed with Rotella T6 synthetic oil. Kwik Kar would have charged at least 3 times that and I wouldn't really know what oil they put in it... and after the last time there, I DO NOT trust them.

If ya have one of these... it's tough, but doable.
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Old 06-08-2015, 11:06 PM   #2
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After your description of access for the oil filter, I'm glad I retired from Chrysler shop in, 07 , where I would be doing Cummins oil changes 2 to 5 times a day.
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Old 06-09-2015, 09:58 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schrederman View Post
I watched a couple of youtube videos about this and in one the filter was visible from under the vehicle. The other showed me the bad news... I have a 4X4 and the filter's not accessible from the bottom... The filter comes out of a hole in the right fender well that's about 5" square. I got a wrap-around filter wrench on it but was only able to move it about 1/32 of a turn each time. As I was hugging the tire wrenching this thing loose, my neighbor walked up behind me and said... "Jack I know you love your truck, but this is taking it a bit too far..." I showed him what I was up against and he winced. I got it loose, and put a gallon-size baggie over it, and dropped it off the threads. I sealed the bag and pulled the filter out of the hole. Spillage was nil. The new filter goes back in pretty easy, really, but then getting it more than hand tight is another fight with the wrench. The rest is easy and for about $74- I got my oil changed with Rotella T6 synthetic oil. Kwik Kar would have charged at least 3 times that and I wouldn't really know what oil they put in it... and after the last time there, I DO NOT trust them.

If ya have one of these... it's tough, but doable.
Are you a member of TDR (Turbo Diesel Register. com) will this was discussed in several post on that site.

Now the solution has been to remove the inside RH fender wall only a couple of screws. You than can have full access to the filter. Another way is to remove the air filter lines to the turbo and access the filter from above. Dropping it into a cut off 1 quart pop bottle. The baggie will work too but the plastic sometimes slips out of your hands before closing.

To prevent an oil bath when draining the pan I have install a quick oil change fitting from Geno's garage. It is a Finger Touch Drain Valve part number FTV-104A. This has an over center spring loaded lock to prevent accidental openings I have had mine now or over 8 years and works great every time no more oil baths.

Jim
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Old 06-09-2015, 10:09 AM   #4
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I'm pretty sure my filter and access is the same as yours on my 2012 and I just use a filter wrench with about 18" of 3/8 extension and access the filter from underneath in the front of the truck. It takes me less than 2 minutes to swap out filters. I also use a ziplock bag around the filter as I remove the old one but have never had so much as a drop of oil spill from the filter...one of the easiest filter changes I have ever done.

I use the Fumoto valve for draining - similar concept to what Jim uses but it is s-l-o-w to drain. It's a great time to have a couple of beers...
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Old 06-09-2015, 07:07 PM   #5
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I'm pretty sure my filter and access is the same as yours on my 2012 and I just use a filter wrench with about 18" of 3/8 extension and access the filter from underneath in the front of the truck. It takes me less than 2 minutes to swap out filters. I also use a ziplock bag around the filter as I remove the old one but have never had so much as a drop of oil spill from the filter...one of the easiest filter changes I have ever done.

I use the Fumoto valve for draining - similar concept to what Jim uses but it is s-l-o-w to drain. It's a great time to have a couple of beers...
No, the trucks are totally different! 2013 and up are re designed. The easiest is to remove some piping from above and do the R&R that way.
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Old 06-09-2015, 07:19 PM   #6
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Changing Oil in Cummins

Be careful if you are under warranty. My son has a 2010 1500 with a Hemi. He had major engine problems. The dealer was not going to honor it because the service was not on record with them. Fortunately he had been having his service done with an auto service place and was able to get computer print outs from them that were accepted. I have heard of this happening with Ford and others also.
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Old 06-09-2015, 11:38 PM   #7
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No, the trucks are totally different! 2013 and up are re designed. The easiest is to remove some piping from above and do the R&R that way.
Yes they beefed up the frame on the 13-14-15's. There is no way to get to it from the bottom. I just did mine. It takes a while but really is easy. Juts take the inlets off the turbo. A bit more of a pain but the new frame is a beast strong. The 2500's are the same as the 3500's except for the springs.
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Old 06-10-2015, 06:51 AM   #8
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Yes they beefed up the frame on the 13-14-15's. There is no way to get to it from the bottom. I just did mine. It takes a while but really is easy. Juts take the inlets off the turbo. A bit more of a pain but the new frame is a beast strong. The 2500's are the same as the 3500's except for the springs.
I have not changed my oil yet I am approaching 3K so I think I will get it done soon. My Son did his recently on his 15 RAM 3500 SRW and he said it was not bad doing it form the top.

You are correct they have really BEEFED up the frames and suspension! It really is a huge improvement over my 11. I was impressed with the 11 but this 15 is on Steroids!
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Old 06-10-2015, 09:16 AM   #9
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No, the trucks are totally different! 2013 and up are re designed. The easiest is to remove some piping from above and do the R&R that way.
Wow, I had no idea. I went over to the cummins forum and they were all saying the same thing. Some went thru the fender well and some removed the turbo inlet.
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Old 06-10-2015, 10:07 AM   #10
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My first thought is why do you tighten more than hand tight?
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Old 06-10-2015, 11:41 AM   #11
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I couldn't get my hands in there to actually get it what I consider "hand tight". So, I got it as tight as I could and then did 1/4 turn more with the wrench.
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Old 06-10-2015, 07:49 PM   #12
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My first thought is why do you tighten more than hand tight?
I think the FleetGuard filters say to make contact plus 3/4 turn.
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Old 06-17-2015, 05:04 AM   #13
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Sounds as if the new Ram 2500 diesel would be a candidate for a remote oil filter mounted in a location where there's room to access it.
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