1500 towing 6700 GVW

[archer75]

Your dry weight numbers for trailer and tongue are similar to my trailer. It's tongue heavy. Which means you'll max your payload rating super quick. And my trailer is only 27.5'
If it were me I wouldn't do it. That trailer is solidly in 2500 territory.

You have 1552lbs of available payload and you're figure 600lbs of people and cargo in the truck? That takes you down to 952lbs of available payload left. Your dry hitch weight is 825lbs. Leaving you with 127lbs. You still have to factor batteries, full propane tanks and a WD hitch on the tongue. Your overloaded right there and you haven't even put any gear in the trailer yet. Since you figure 1000lbs in the trailer then add another 100lbs to 150lbs on the tongue that comes off payload. You'll be several hundred pounds over on payload and over on the tongue weight rating of that truck as well.

[Dan B]

Originally Posted by JSS

I had that exact same setup for a year and a half before switching to an F250 Diesel. Like you I live in Florida and towed it all around the state. Also towed it up to Savannah and Pine Mountain (GA) so I have some miles on that setup. Feel free to PM me if you want more information.

How did your truck do towing your trailer for a year and a half? I'm not going to be driving crazy. Maybe be towing once or twice a month on weekend camping trips no more than a 200 mile trip

[cdoorider]

Originally Posted by Dan B

I have:
2014 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab 1500 LTZ 5.3L V8 3.42
Towing capacity is 9,600 lbs
GVWR is 7,200 lbs
GAWR front & rear is 3,950 lbs
Extra people & cargo can't exceed 1,552 lbs
GCWR is 15,000 lbs

I'm figuring 600 lbs of people & cargo.

I'm looking into a TT that is:
34' long
Dry weight is 6,700 lbs
GVWR is 8,200 lbs
Dry Hitch weight is 825 lbs

I'm figuring 1,000 lbs max. of cargo (so figuring 7,700 lbs to trailer weight)

A little info:
I live in florida so it's all flat land. I don't ever plan to drive through the hills or mountains. I know my truck can't do that. Thinking we'll be driving no further than 200 max. from home on most trips. Maybe once a year go a little further. I don't plan to get anywhere quick, I'll more likely be driving about 60 mph or so. I want my truck to last for a long time & don't want to kill it.
I plan on installing Z23 power stop brakes with rotors and Air Lift Loadlifter 5000. I'll be also keeping an eye on my transmission temp & if seems to struggle I don't mind installing a rear differential cover with cooling fins. Also for WDH I'm thinking on going with the 4-point equalizer, but also considering the Hensley Arrow.

I just want to check with everyone & double check my numbers to make sure my truck can pull it safety & not kill it. Any recommendations or things I should think about to add or remove or whatever. Anything advise will help. Thank you.

You know the numbers so weigh the truck all set for camping with people dogs etc. I'd even throw the hitch in the bed for good measure. Subtract the number from gcvwr and you'll know what you have left for trailer.

If your within spec and your comfortable driving it your ready to go. Of course bigger trucks are always a little more stable but if the numbers work drive safely and leave lots of space. As for the trailer being a large sail.that is true. If the wind is really blowing the 2500 is going to get whipped around also. I've seen winds coming off of cajon pass in CA blow a semi over..

[cdoorider]

Originally Posted by Dan B

I have:
2014 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab 1500 LTZ 5.3L V8 3.42
Towing capacity is 9,600 lbs
GVWR is 7,200 lbs
GAWR front & rear is 3,950 lbs
Extra people & cargo can't exceed 1,552 lbs
GCWR is 15,000 lbs

I'm figuring 600 lbs of people & cargo.

I'm looking into a TT that is:
34' long
Dry weight is 6,700 lbs
GVWR is 8,200 lbs
Dry Hitch weight is 825 lbs

I'm figuring 1,000 lbs max. of cargo (so figuring 7,700 lbs to trailer weight)

A little info:
I live in florida so it's all flat land. I don't ever plan to drive through the hills or mountains. I know my truck can't do that. Thinking we'll be driving no further than 200 max. from home on most trips. Maybe once a year go a little further. I don't plan to get anywhere quick, I'll more likely be driving about 60 mph or so. I want my truck to last for a long time & don't want to kill it.
I plan on installing Z23 power stop brakes with rotors and Air Lift Loadlifter 5000. I'll be also keeping an eye on my transmission temp & if seems to struggle I don't mind installing a rear differential cover with cooling fins. Also for WDH I'm thinking on going with the 4-point equalizer, but also considering the Hensley Arrow.

I just want to check with everyone & double check my numbers to make sure my truck can pull it safety & not kill it. Any recommendations or things I should think about to add or remove or whatever. Anything advise will help. Thank you.

Ouch just noticed the dry weight was 6700, that's pretty close, if you don't load the trailer maybe within spec but man that's a bit large.

If you follow the forum you'll know I'm a fan of the New half tons, but the 6700lb number is about the most I would want to gross at. I hate it but I'm gonna go along with others, it's probably a little yo much.

[plasma800]

Originally Posted by Dan B

I have:
2014 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab 1500 LTZ 5.3L V8 3.42
Towing capacity is 9,600 lbs
GVWR is 7,200 lbs
GAWR front & rear is 3,950 lbs
Extra people & cargo can't exceed 1,552 lbs
GCWR is 15,000 lbs

I'm figuring 600 lbs of people & cargo.

I'm looking into a TT that is:
34' long
Dry weight is 6,700 lbs
GVWR is 8,200 lbs
Dry Hitch weight is 825 lbs

I'm figuring 1,000 lbs max. of cargo (so figuring 7,700 lbs to trailer weight)

A little info:
I live in florida so it's all flat land. I don't ever plan to drive through the hills or mountains. I know my truck can't do that. Thinking we'll be driving no further than 200 max. from home on most trips. Maybe once a year go a little further. I don't plan to get anywhere quick, I'll more likely be driving about 60 mph or so. I want my truck to last for a long time & don't want to kill it.
I plan on installing Z23 power stop brakes with rotors and Air Lift Loadlifter 5000. I'll be also keeping an eye on my transmission temp & if seems to struggle I don't mind installing a rear differential cover with cooling fins. Also for WDH I'm thinking on going with the 4-point equalizer, but also considering the Hensley Arrow.

I just want to check with everyone & double check my numbers to make sure my truck can pull it safety & not kill it. Any recommendations or things I should think about to add or remove or whatever. Anything advise will help. Thank you.

That will be a squirrelly ride.. even on flat ground.....

What you should think about is a stiffer rear end. Don't over look the 3 dimensional forces of pitch, yaw, and roll. Your truck doesn't have the rear suspension forces to return the trailer.. instead that trailer will pull that truck all over the place.

You'll hate every semi that passes you at 85 mph... as it pushes that trailer and then sucks it back. short wheelbase truck, long trailer, overloaded leaf springs, near max payload.. nope....not for me.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f44/artic...ml#post3989955

[Canarado]

If you're doing full hookups you could haul it without water and that will help keep it closer to the dry weight.

[Indiana]

Originally Posted by archer75

Your dry weight numbers for trailer and tongue are similar to my trailer. It's tongue heavy. Which means you'll max your payload rating super quick. And my trailer is only 27.5'
If it were me I wouldn't do it. That trailer is solidly in 2500 territory.

You have 1552lbs of available payload and you're figure 600lbs of people and cargo in the truck? That takes you down to 952lbs of available payload left. Your dry hitch weight is 825lbs. Leaving you with 127lbs. You still have to factor batteries, full propane tanks and a WD hitch on the tongue. Your overloaded right there and you haven't even put any gear in the trailer yet. Since you figure 1000lbs in the trailer then add another 100lbs to 150lbs on the tongue that comes off payload. You'll be several hundred pounds over on payload and over on the tongue weight rating of that truck as well.

x2 on above opinion. I do like to point out that an Equal-i-zer WDH weighs 100#+ and the HA weighs 200#. It also adds to your troubled payload. Most 1/2t's towing capability is limited by its payload.

I don't belongs to the "you can't tow anything without a 3/4t Club". My 30' TT has similar listed DW & GVW the 34' you have in mind except the listed TW is 675# on sticker. The TT was new-to-me last season. On our maiden voyage, a weekend trip, I took it on a scale. With only 1/4 tank of fresh water, almost full propane tanks, TW was 968#. GVW of the TT was at 8,100#. It's pushing the GCVW of my 1500HD. (6.0l, 3.73, 8,600# GVWR & 14,000 GCVW) I'm sure it will exceed the RAWR of a regular 1500 even yours have a higher GCVW than mine.

[Dan B]

Originally Posted by archer75

Your dry weight numbers for trailer and tongue are similar to my trailer. It's tongue heavy. Which means you'll max your payload rating super quick. And my trailer is only 27.5'
If it were me I wouldn't do it. That trailer is solidly in 2500 territory.

You have 1552lbs of available payload and you're figure 600lbs of people and cargo in the truck? That takes you down to 952lbs of available payload left. Your dry hitch weight is 825lbs. Leaving you with 127lbs. You still have to factor batteries, full propane tanks and a WD hitch on the tongue. Your overloaded right there and you haven't even put any gear in the trailer yet. Since you figure 1000lbs in the trailer then add another 100lbs to 150lbs on the tongue that comes off payload. You'll be several hundred pounds over on payload and over on the tongue weight rating of that truck as well.

Something is not right with my numbers. Truck sticker says 7200 GVWR & 1552 for payload for people & cargo. Now, I went to my local truck stop & weight my truck with full tank & me only me in it. I don't plan on loading up the truck with anything except my family. The front axle weights 3300 & the rear is 2380. Total weights 5680. I weigh 200 lbs. The rest of family will be 330 lbs.

So 7200 GVWR minus 1552 payload = 5648. So how can I be in the truck who weighs 200 lbs & be only 32 lbs more than 5648? Am I missing something?

So what I'm doing is taking the actual weight with me in it & adding 330 lbs for family = 6010 lbs minus 7200 GVWR & getting 1200 lbs to go towards hitch.

[archer75]

Some manufacturers account some weight for the driver. It looks like they've done that here. A typical amount is 175lbs.
You're still too close on weights and would likely go over.
I'd look for a different trailer. Or new truck. Or both.
I was there on a previous truck. I wasn't quite over on payload but I was on tongue weight. Hit a dip in the road and the front end of the truck popped up as the trailer dropped down. Seesawing violently. After that I bought a new truck. Also cross winds made for white knuckle driving. New truck solved all that. And then we bought the new trailer we have now.

Even not going over and just riding the edge you'll find you'll bring more gear over time. We went from no dogs to 2 large dogs. Kids want to bring a friend. Then i'm hauling gear for friends who only have a car. We never thought we'd go dry camping when we bought our first trailer and now we go several times a year. We're packing cornhole boards now. Bikes. Occiasionally I bring a smoker. It's nice to have payload available for the unexpected or to adopt to how your travels may change.
On our last dry camping trip, packing all the extras we bring for us and for others I got to the limit of my 2500. It's crazy how fast things add up.

[cdoorider]

Originally Posted by archer75

Some manufacturers account some weight for the driver. It looks like they've done that here. A typical amount is 175lbs.
You're still too close on weights and would likely go over.
I'd look for a different trailer. Or new truck. Or both.
I was there on a previous truck. I wasn't quite over on payload but I was on tongue weight. Hit a dip in the road and the front end of the truck popped up as the trailer dropped down. Seesawing violently. After that I bought a new truck. Also cross winds made for white knuckle driving. New truck solved all that. And then we bought the new trailer we have now.

Even not going over and just riding the edge you'll find you'll bring more gear over time. We went from no dogs to 2 large dogs. Kids want to bring a friend. Then i'm hauling gear for friends who only have a car. We never thought we'd go dry camping when we bought our first trailer and now we go several times a year. We're packing cornhole boards now. Bikes. Occiasionally I bring a smoker. It's nice to have payload available for the unexpected or to adopt to how your travels may change.
On our last dry camping trip, packing all the extras we bring for us and for others I got to the limit of my 2500. It's crazy how fast things add up.

I agree with your post but personally, if I'm a grand under on combined weight and almost three grand under on trailer towing ability I'll accept being right at or a little under on truck weight. The gvwr of truck us 7200 but axles are rated at 3950 or 7900lbs for both.

If someone plans on adding extra to their truck then get a 2500. For me towing may e 4x a year to state campgrounds this works well as long as you have a good weight distribution hitch. As for bikes and other extras I carry them in the trailer so I kerp under my weight. I know this won't work for everyone but I'm legal and safe and my truck handles well.

Don't forget the new the newer standard the manufacturers use to rate their trucks. The J2807 is a rigorous test done in the mountains of Arizona in extreme heat. They actually stop the trucks on a hill in 110 degree heat and then they have to accelerate from a dead stop in a measured amount of time. During the test nothing can break or it fails. These test are done by the Society of Automotive Engineers, you can read about it here https://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/...w-ratings.html.

Now the heavy duty trucks ratings are still in flux but the half tons are solid.

No way am I going to put my truck through what these Engineers do. I also trust the SAE more then what I get on some forum. As a retired Teamster Trucker I wouldn't think of telling my boss I couldn't pull a load my truck was rated for.

I guess bottom line is the one thing I agree with the gotta have a bigger truck guys on is a bigger truck will always handle better, tow more and be more comfortable to drive. The last statement is true of Semis as well. But with a proper hitch I'll never have a problem towing at my rated weight, there is a safety margin built in. If your going to tow a lot and travel the country then just buy a 1 ton and be done with it.

Have A Great Day

[cdoorider]

Sorry feel I need to add one more point. I would rather tow an Artic Fox 24' at rated ability than a 30' Apex. Short and heavier is more stable than light and long.

Also note, I have towed 7100 gross wet and loaded over the Cascades, I took it easy but that wasn't something I want to tow everyday, once on a while fine. My current trailer is 5300 wet and loaded. I'm currently shopping new trailers, need room for grandkids thay we are raising. I'm looking at the Lance 2185 it has 3 bunks and is 4200lbs dry. Remember bigger isn't always better. Getting into some campgrounds can be a pain with bigger rigs. If your not full timing you are camping and as my wife says, you're supposed to be outside. The trailer is someplace to sleep and get out of the rain if necessary. If you are really wanting a huge trailer because you have a large family, or are sleeping a lot of friends get a bigger truck.

I promise no more post on this thread (applause) you should have a pretty good idea what you can tow now. If you don't feel comfortable you're probably not safe.

[archer75]

Originally Posted by cdoorider

Sorry feel I need to add one more point. I would rather tow an Artic Fox 24' at rated ability than a 30' Apex. Short and heavier is more stable than light and long.

Also note, I have towed 7100 gross wet and loaded over the Cascades, I took it easy but that wasn't something I want to tow everyday, once on a while fine. My current trailer is 5300 wet and loaded. I'm currently shopping new trailers, need room for grandkids thay we are raising. I'm looking at the Lance 2185 it has 3 bunks and is 4200lbs dry. Remember bigger isn't always better. Getting into some campgrounds can be a pain with bigger rigs. If your not full timing you are camping and as my wife says, you're supposed to be outside. The trailer is someplace to sleep and get out of the rain if necessary. If you are really wanting a huge trailer because you have a large family, or are sleeping a lot of friends get a bigger truck.

I promise no more post on this thread (applause) you should have a pretty good idea what you can tow now. If you don't feel comfortable you're probably not safe.

I totally agree. And you raise a good point about getting in to campsites. The larger the trailer the less sites you have access to. It's nice to have a smaller trailer so you have more campground options.
Ours is 27.5' and I would have gone smaller if I could have found one that had everything we wanted in a smaller size.

[t55watson]

Get out of my way.
I am at or over Chevy specs. I am now in TX and heading West.
I believe some of the specs on weights are determined by the liability lawyers all motor vehicle manufacturers use. I was born and raised in Detroit, so ask me how I know.
Equilizer brand hitch properly adjusted and this thing tows great. All tt's will have a little push and pull when a truck passes at high speed. My DP motorhomes had the same thing.That wind off a truck is HUGE.

[plasma800]

remember to compare the specs of the "i tow that much every day" trailers to your trailer.

Suspension, overall length, tw, and all capacities to your own truck and trailer... its a unique combination.