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Old 04-09-2014, 04:52 PM   #15
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I have a 2000 f250 with the 5.4 are these problematic also? My brothers 05 f150 had to have the heads pulled twice due to snapped plugs at the dealer. $2k at 110k miles and $2k at 180k miles. I couldnt have the heads pulled on this and still be able to eat dinner. Lol
no issues with the 2V engines. Not sure about pulling head either. Most places have the removal tool to perform the job. Under warranty Ford was paying for new heads though. They did not want them extracted for some reason. My guess they did not have the tool to sell.
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Old 04-28-2014, 09:02 PM   #16
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I just changed mine in my 2006 5.4. I had 7 plugs break. The job was a pain in the butt and took some time, but then again it was the first change at 130,000 mi. The removal tool is a must and make sure it's the lisle tool. Good luck
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Old 04-28-2014, 09:17 PM   #17
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For something like that, I would use a manual impact driver:

Impact driver - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I have on of those for working on my motorcycle.
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Old 05-07-2014, 11:42 PM   #18
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Manual Impact Driver I have one Might try it Sounds plausible
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Old 05-08-2014, 12:11 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by TravisNuwa81 View Post
I have a 2000 f250 with the 5.4 are these problematic also? My brothers 05 f150 had to have the heads pulled twice due to snapped plugs at the dealer. $2k at 110k miles and $2k at 180k miles. I couldnt have the heads pulled on this and still be able to eat dinner. Lol
We have a 05 superduty with 91K on her. Still runs good with factory plugs. I will never change them as long as it runs ok. This plug breaking and head stripping is nothing but a design flaw by Ford, and they know it. $2K to change plugs is total horse crap. Ford should of recalled and fixed all of these vehicles from the start. We've had many of these triton V8 and 10 engines, and have many now. I have yet to change plugs in any of them. Either sold are traded them before they needed it. But it is what it is. But they have all been trouble free and I have never spent a dime on them, other them oil changes. Way cheaper then all the diesels they have went through. 7.3 gutless wonder, 6.0 mechanical bad dream, 6.4 total nightmare. I was in the Ford shop today, another cab off a 6.4 getting a new engine. Every Ford shop in the land has a special lift to remove the cab so they can replace the 6.4 engines. Some have two or three. The 6.7 is the best one so far, but they love fuel and have emissions problems.
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Old 05-18-2014, 01:30 PM   #20
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3-valve 5.4 L and 6.8 L engines built before 10/9/07 and 3-valve 4.6 Ls built before 11/30/07 found in many 2004–2008 Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles have an issue with difficult to remove spark plugs which can cause the spark plug to break in the cylinder head. The spark plug has a 2-piece shell, which often separates, leaving the lower portion of the spark plug stuck deep in the engine. Ford provides a special procedure for spark plug removal on these engines. For situations where the spark plug has broken in the head, Lisle has a special tool for removing the seized portion of the plug.

The Ford recommended spark plug service interval extends beyond the duration of the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, so forget Ford paying for the repair. And dealers and independent repair shops have made a bunch of money changing these spark plugs.

As was earlier said, you get the engine warmed up. Remove the coil packs and use compressed air to clean out the holes. Then, spray a good dose of PB Blaster deep in the holes around the spark plugs--and let them rest. Then, use a 1/2" impact wrench and a high quality spark plug wrench (with extension) to remove the spark plug. If the spark plug breaks in 2 pieces, be prepared to send someone to pickup a Lisle Ford plug removal tool.

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Old 05-19-2014, 12:20 AM   #21
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Anyone ever used "Yeild" spray for the penetrating oil ?
It's the best stuff I've ever found for normal threaded parts.
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Old 05-19-2014, 07:36 AM   #22
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Anyone ever used "Yeild" spray for the penetrating oil ?
It's the best stuff I've ever found for normal threaded parts.
Kano Kroil oil is one of the best, if not the best ever made. It works miracles.
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Old 05-20-2014, 12:24 AM   #23
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Used lots of Kroil in the airline business. It's good but I think Yeild is better.
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Old 05-20-2014, 12:18 PM   #24
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I did mine a few months ago - ran Seafoam through two tanks of gas in the weeks prior to the change, got the engine hot, used a little 3/8" Air Impact - had the lisle tool just in case. Didn't break any. I did one side, then warmed the motor back up, then did the other side. I was even able to get the little impact down the back to get the #4 plug, but I had to pull the computer and bracket to get into that space.
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Old 05-21-2014, 05:02 PM   #25
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I did mine a few months ago - ran Seafoam through two tanks of gas in the weeks prior to the change, got the engine hot, used a little 3/8" Air Impact - had the lisle tool just in case.
Of the thousands of $$$ in tools I have at my disposal, one of those 3/8" impact wrenches is one of the few things missing. I would be really reluctant to unleash my 3/4" impact wrench on a spark plug in an aluminum head; but a 3/8 wrench sounds like a rather useful option for something like that, where a somewhat more delicate approach would be preferable.
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Old 05-21-2014, 11:21 PM   #26
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Of the thousands of $$$ in tools I have at my disposal, one of those 3/8" impact wrenches is one of the few things missing. I would be really reluctant to unleash my 3/4" impact wrench on a spark plug in an aluminum head; but a 3/8 wrench sounds like a rather useful option for something like that, where a somewhat more delicate approach would be preferable.
I use a 1/2" electric 18v impact for stubborn bolts that i don't want to break. It works wonders. 1/2" electric is probably about the same power as a 3/8 air impact. In fact when working on my cars, i use the electric impact almost exclusively until i run into larger m12+ size bolts.
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Old 05-22-2014, 03:58 PM   #27
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I use a 1/2" electric 18v impact for stubborn bolts that i don't want to break. It works wonders. 1/2" electric is probably about the same power as a 3/8 air impact. In fact when working on my cars, i use the electric impact almost exclusively until i run into larger m12+ size bolts.
I have a 3/8's Snap-On $$$$$$$$$$ electric impact. That gun has no problems removing lug nuts from a truck (250/350).
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