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Old 04-06-2014, 01:24 AM   #1
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2006 F150 5.4 engine spark plug change

Has anyone done the spark plug change and how did it come out?
Many internet postings of problems with the job.
Local Ford dealer wants $600 to do the job.
I have engine experience and tools but looking for recent experience from someone on the 5.4.
Lots of suggestions on Youtube both cold and hot changing out.
Any consensus on the best way to do it?
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Old 04-06-2014, 01:38 AM   #2
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You should have no problems changing your plugs. Just remove coiles then plugs. Use anti sieze on the threads of the new plugs and torque to proper specs. I recommend using motorcraft plugs and if your truck has over 80k miles I would change the coils also. I think your plugs are good for 100k miles so check your owners manual to see.
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Old 04-06-2014, 01:50 AM   #3
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I had ford dealer do mine last year with 190k on it and we were lucky none broke off so they only charged me 230$ mechanic uses a lot of pb blaster on each hole and says a little prayer before trying to turn each one. I see they do make a new stronger and better spark plug now for it.
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Old 04-07-2014, 02:17 AM   #4
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I've heard about the new style plugs that Ford uses now.
I have some "Yield" that I think is better than PB Blaster.
Trucks got 77K miles but I'm feeling a slight stumble at idle so it might be time to change the plugs even though the book calls for 100K miles.
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Old 04-07-2014, 05:34 AM   #5
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Some high quality penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Yield, etc.), TIME!!!, and luck. Lisle Tool make a broken plug extractor specifically for the Ford. The only parts store chain I've ever seen carry it as a rental tool is O'rielly, and it can be a big help in removing a broken one.

I've heard tale of people shooting PB Blaster in there and letting it sit for days before ever turning the first ratchet...
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Old 04-07-2014, 06:40 AM   #6
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To be safe if a plug breaks off you should pull the head.
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:50 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by jrgreenacres View Post
To be safe if a plug breaks off you should pull the head.
There is no reason to pull a head if the plug breaks off. The way they break off and the way the extraction tool works, no debris gets in the cylinder. Plus before installing a new plug you should crank over the engine just to make sure.
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:53 PM   #8
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Has anyone done the spark plug change and how did it come out?
Many internet postings of problems with the job.
Local Ford dealer wants $600 to do the job.
I have engine experience and tools but looking for recent experience from someone on the 5.4.
Lots of suggestions on Youtube both cold and hot changing out.
Any consensus on the best way to do it?
I have done may of these 3V 5.4L plug replacements. The best way that most Ford techs are removing them now with pretty much no breakage is to get the engine very hot. Full operating temps. Remove quickly a few coil packs and use an electric impact to jolt the plug. A quick burp in reverse and forward. A few of these and it will break loose the carbon and the plug will come out.
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Old 04-08-2014, 12:33 AM   #9
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I have read about the remove them hot idea and it makes sense. Aluminum expands more than steel. That's the way I may just go. I don't have an electric impact but I do have a 3/8s air drive palm impact driver that I'll try on it. I have an O'Rielly parts store near by so I'll have the removal tools handy when I do this.
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Old 04-08-2014, 04:08 PM   #10
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I have not tried an air impact on them so it is hard for me to say if it may be to powerful or not but my Snap-On cordless impact will remove lug nuts. And I do hit full burst of power to remove. Oh, by the way, use compressed air and blow all the debris away from the engine and spark plug holes. You don't want to run the risk of debris getting down the holes.
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Old 04-08-2014, 05:44 PM   #11
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I have the V10 but its basically the same just 2 more cylinders. Just take your time and do one completely them move to the next. It took me about 3-4 hours. I removed the coil, pulled boot out, before taking plug out I sprayed air in the opening to get any loose debris out.. Checked GAP on new plug. Removed old plug and installed new. I used Motorcraft plugs that I got at Autozone for under $3 a plug. Use a little anti seize on the threads, I also replaced all the boots as they dry out and crack causing issue. Used dielectric grease on the connection and installed boot and coil. There is no reason to replace all the coils. If one ever fails just replace that one. I have 160K on my original coils. Shops charge so much as it is a labor intensive job to do but can be done by anyone with some basic automotive knowledge. Have some different size extensions, swivel on the socket and a ratchet with a tilting head made the job a little bit easier.
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Old 04-08-2014, 06:32 PM   #12
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Do not use antiseize on modern plated plugs. If the threads of the new plug are coated in what looks like shiny nickel, don't use antiseize. Antiseize will lubricate the plug and cause you to overtorque it. There is no need for antiseize because of the plating.
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Old 04-09-2014, 02:15 AM   #13
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I have a 2000 f250 with the 5.4 are these problematic also? My brothers 05 f150 had to have the heads pulled twice due to snapped plugs at the dealer. $2k at 110k miles and $2k at 180k miles. I couldnt have the heads pulled on this and still be able to eat dinner. Lol
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Old 04-09-2014, 12:43 PM   #14
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My air impact is a 3/8 paddle wrench and it probably won't do lug nuts. I like the idea of the swivel socket I'll look for one.
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