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Old 08-22-2014, 08:54 AM   #29
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I'll take a Ram CTD with a CP.3 over Ford and the CP.4 any day. Good luck getting any warranty work done when it gets a drop of water in it. GM covers it and so does VW. Ford says SOL.
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Old 08-22-2014, 01:15 PM   #30
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I would love to see a data sheet where the internals from a 5.9 including turbo and fuel system has remained the same through the entire HP and torque rise over the years and then the 6.7L is similar where the 5.9 started at 160 HP up to the 6.7L 385. Since the 6.7L and 5.9L does not share the same bore or stroke of the 5.9. That would mean length and height cannot be the same. Plus there has been block changes.

For 6.7L Ford engine repairs you do not need to remove the cab for engine repairs. The design has to be able to be repaired in chassis because many body builders add bodies over the cab. However if the option is available a cab remove is best as you can work on the engine while standing up and not hunched over the fenders and risking scratching fenders. The repair process is very nice and if done properly you wouldn't know anyone was in there. Unless what I seen at the local Dodge dealer last week.


By the way your 2010 does not meet the J2807 since Ram just started it. But online reports do show that GM and Ford does pull the loads exceptionally well. Even compared to weights of the trucks that meet those standards.

Please provide your facts.
I agree that the 5.9L block cannot be used as is for the 6.7L block since the bore and stroke are slightly larger 107mmX124mm vs. the 5.9L of 102mmX120mm. Per Cummins the block is built on the architecture and concepts of the 5.9L engine that has been used from 03 to the present (5.9L).

You can read more on the Cummins 6.7L engine changes and what is standard between the two in Turbo Diesel Buyers Guide Volume 1 starting on page 46. There is other information earlier on page 40 and 42 also, but the most important information is on page 46 and on. See attached Link it is free to down load and read.

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/i...sGuide2012.pdf


Oh BTW I have an 08 truck not a 10 my camper is a 2010.

Jim W.
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Old 08-22-2014, 04:07 PM   #31
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I'll take a Ram CTD with a CP.3 over Ford and the CP.4 any day. Good luck getting any warranty work done when it gets a drop of water in it. GM covers it and so does VW. Ford says SOL.
Please again keep the facts straight. It is more than a drop of water for any CP4 pump. In order to cause a water related failure it has to be an excessive amount of water that overwhelms the separator. I have replaced under warranty the CP4 pumps for failures. I wish that Ford would have taken the stand of replacing the pump for water no matter what. However if gasoline, DEF, or other not diesel fuel liquids were added to the fuel tank and caused damage your on your own.

My understanding though is the 2015 and newer 6.7L's have a revised pump in it.
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Old 08-22-2014, 04:09 PM   #32
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I agree that the 5.9L block cannot be used as is for the 6.7L block since the bore and stroke are slightly larger 107mmX124mm vs. the 5.9L of 102mmX120mm. Per Cummins the block is built on the architecture and concepts of the 5.9L engine that has been used from 03 to the present (5.9L).

You can read more on the Cummins 6.7L engine changes and what is standard between the two in Turbo Diesel Buyers Guide Volume 1 starting on page 46. There is other information earlier on page 40 and 42 also, but the most important information is on page 46 and on. See attached Link it is free to down load and read.

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/i...sGuide2012.pdf


Oh BTW I have an 08 truck not a 10 my camper is a 2010.

Jim W.
thanks for the link. It has some very good information in there.
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Old 08-22-2014, 07:18 PM   #33
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Looking to buy 2500 cc diesel . Which manufacturer would you buy from . Recommendations
Now that this thread had completely derailed into a "which brand is best pi$$ing contest" I'd like to offer some on-topic advice to the OP. Any of the big 3 make good trucks that are more than capable of towing your TT. But ask yourself if this is your last, biggest trailer ever? My advice - buy a SRW 350/3500 truck at a minimum or a dually if you can afford it. The SRW 350/3500's don't cost much more and they won't TOW any more than the 250/2500's. But they will CARRY a lot more payload which becomes real important if your next trailer is a 5th wheel.
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Old 08-22-2014, 07:57 PM   #34
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The SRW 350/3500's don't cost much more and they won't TOW any more than the 250/2500's. But they will CARRY a lot more payload which becomes real important if your next trailer is a 5th wheel.
True ...some what.
Remember Ford has some F350 SRW trucks with a 10k GVWR. Same as a F250. Some F250 trucks has more payload than a 10k GVWR F350 SRW all depending on truck selections.
I say this as one poster on another website didn't do his home work and came up with the 10k one ton SRW with just 2300-2400 lb payload.
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Old 08-23-2014, 09:01 AM   #35
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Please again keep the facts straight. It is more than a drop of water for any CP4 pump. In order to cause a water related failure it has to be an excessive amount of water that overwhelms the separator. I have replaced under warranty the CP4 pumps for failures. I wish that Ford would have taken the stand of replacing the pump for water no matter what. However if gasoline, DEF, or other not diesel fuel liquids were added to the fuel tank and caused damage your on your own.

My understanding though is the 2015 and newer 6.7L's have a revised pump in it.
Yes it does take more than a drop but the problem is the water in diesel warming is inconsistent. There are reports of Ford owners having issues and it ends up being water in their fuel. No warning. GM and VW are handling the issue in the proper manor. Ford is saying take a hike.
I was a total Ford homer since I was old enough to drive. My decision to get a Ram CTD was based totally on Fords inept way of dealing with HPFP issues. I have yet to read about a CP.3 HPFP issue in a Ram in the 2 yrs I've been on the Cummins forum. I just didn't want to take the chance on a $10,000 repair bill because the WIF warning failed to show up before the HPFP self destructed and sent crap through the injectors. I know there are lots of happy Ford diesel owners out there but there's also enough really pi$$ed off ones that I didn't want to be one of those guys.
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Old 08-23-2014, 11:57 AM   #36
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Yes it does take more than a drop but the problem is the water in diesel warming is inconsistent. There are reports of Ford owners having issues and it ends up being water in their fuel. No warning. GM and VW are handling the issue in the proper manor. Ford is saying take a hike.
I was a total Ford homer since I was old enough to drive. My decision to get a Ram CTD was based totally on Fords inept way of dealing with HPFP issues. I have yet to read about a CP.3 HPFP issue in a Ram in the 2 yrs I've been on the Cummins forum. I just didn't want to take the chance on a $10,000 repair bill because the WIF warning failed to show up before the HPFP self destructed and sent crap through the injectors. I know there are lots of happy Ford diesel owners out there but there's also enough really pi$$ed off ones that I didn't want to be one of those guys.
To be fair the CP3 pumps had a very healthy track record even in the GM products. Many of our Duramax 4500's did have to have them replaced. The local Cummins dealer does keep the pumps and injectors in stock because they do fail enough that it warrants keeping them in stock. They brought one out for me to look at because I was curious if they looked different from some other pumps I have seen.

I don't know the reason everyone went to the 4 but I assume it has to do with a higher pressure rating. Both GM and Ford has pressures almost 30K PSI in the fuel system. Believe me, we all know people that have moved over to different brands because of one thing or another. Even working at a Ford dealer as a tech we get to talk to customers. We had many a customer switch from GM or Dodge/Ram etc because of issues.
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Old 08-23-2014, 08:57 PM   #37
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The first thing I look for is high torque at low RPM. You have to move that load from the bottom of the grade and you had to stop at the bottom. You need most of the 800lbs or so of torque very early before the engine can build speed.

The next thing is an exhaust brake that will control the speed downhill. Ideally it is combined with a transmission that will also work to control the speed. Burning brakes and using the runaway truck lane is not fun.

I chose the Cummins. Right now it is only available in the Ram, but any I-6 diesel should work.

The Aisin transmission is very good, and the 68RFE has been acceptable. Avoid any rear end taller than 3.73, and 4.10 is better. You will notice the difference starting from dead stop on a grade.

Depending on where you fuel and travel, an aftermarket cartridge filter system for oil-water separator and fuel particulate filter is a good choice. Cheaper than injectors.

Any of the trucks can likely do the job, but the Cummins will likely do it a bit better a lot longer.
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Old 09-01-2014, 06:36 AM   #38
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James and Cummins,
Would somebody please define medium duty?
LD? MD? HD?
I am lost here....I was under the impression that all mfgs have light duty trucks--Ford: 150/250/350/450. GM: 1500/2500/3500. Dodge: 1500/2500/3500/4500. Once past that, where are you?
Joe
Technically speaking they are all Light Duty Trucks. A true Medium Duty would be a SportChassis. However they all use MD on just about everything so have fun figuring it out.
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Old 09-01-2014, 06:42 AM   #39
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Looking to buy 2500 cc diesel . Which manufacturer would you buy from . Recommendations
For me, I liked the Ford is assembled in the U.S. It don't matter to many folks (who then complain about the poor U.S. economy, cognitive dissonance is funny), but it still matters to me. Maybe it does to you too.
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Old 09-02-2014, 11:17 AM   #40
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I bought a 2014 RAM 2500 diesel in January. I like the truck alot, with only a few quibles. At the time, I was indifferent to RAM or Ford, so I went with the best deal. Side note, I havent considered chevy since last encounters with that brand resulted with stuff falling off (door handles and a tail gate that smashed my toe), which I'm sure are outliers.

At the time, I was convinced that that diesel was the only way to go. But if i were to do it again I might consider gas versions of these trucks. In the 3/4-tone I think a gas version is not unreasonable.
Anyway, back to diesel, the exhaust brake is very cool feature, and oil change at dealer not nearly as expensive as I was expecting. But fuel filter change was much sooner than expected (first change at 7k miles) and it does blow DEF much faster than I expected. I've taken 3 long trips this year with TT (3000 miles each) and each time I've had to add about 5-6 gallons of the stuff. I beleive RAM has a smaller tank than the others which might be why they are the only ones that have a dash gauge for DEF. Which is interesting to watch because it doesn't trickle down, but rather takes 1/4 drops at a time.

I think all three brands of these 3/4 diesel are great trucks. But when you invest $60,000 in a single vehicle you want to believe that its the absolute best one out there, and then you want to tell everyone about it.

Also, when you spend that much on a truck, you also have to make promises to the wife.
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Old 09-02-2014, 01:59 PM   #41
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ok,, didn't get a 3/4 I went with the 1 ton SRW,,, however.. thoughts of interior, engine and trans I thought about,, and that applies to your question..

Before I down anyone's truck....I think the big three are all great, even if I am picky they aren't bad..

I had owned a lot of fords,, and replaced my ford excursion,, my tow ,,for a CHEVY.
WHY,, adding the diesel adds a lot of cost and I didn't want to waste the money,,. I liked the interior and ergonomics of the ford,,, except for the back seat area. I bought in 2013,, and in that year (not sure now) the back seat had rails on the floor for seat support for my crew cab seats.,,, the Chevy had a clean open floor without that issue.

I know several people who had a ford diesel during their bad model years and had nothing but issues... To be fair, ford changed engines and that wasn't one Id have bought however back several years ago and still now Ford didn't have the same longevity with its current model engine to give me a track record that could equal what the Chevy engine has had since model year 2008 (I think) beginning of the LML add to that the ford trans is somewhat new in the last few years without a track record also...(Not saying bad)...but its history isn't close to what you can compare with an Allison..

while I seem to be kicking the ford motor and trans Im not,, I just liked the years and history that the Chevy gave.

I know Chevy had a redesign in 2014 and later so the interior is different but I think unless you go with the gmc Denali I think dodge and ford has the edge still.. not that im not happy with my chevy..

Dodge;;; I didn't spend much time with it,, did go to the Chicago auto show to see some,, liked the insides but when I tried to feel it out some I had a indifferent salesman at dealership I stopped at that didn't represent dodge very well with product knowledge... My experience using it at work has included exhaust issues due to short trips and idealing and it gave engine codes..


If you get a used truck research engine years,, some are to be avoided.. but you wont go wrong I think with any of the current big three... I wouldnt even think beyond the big three..

Chevy in Ohio,, Ford Kentucky Louisville plant, Dodge 3/4 I believe is still American but the 1 ton DRW is mexico.. Im sure all have parts from other counties included in other parts or sections of the truck,, I also buy American.
good luck
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Old 09-02-2014, 04:51 PM   #42
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Chevy in Ohio,, Ford Kentucky Louisville plant, Dodge 3/4 I believe is still American but the 1 ton DRW is mexico.. Im sure all have parts from other counties included in other parts or sections of the truck,, I also buy American.
good luck

All Dodge 2500 and 3500 trucks are made in Mexico. Also, half their 1500's are made there as well.

Chevy has moved some of its truck production to Mexico also.

Easiest way to see if it is a foreign assembled truck, look at the VIN. First number is a 1, it is U.S., a 3 is Mexico.
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