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Old 12-14-2016, 12:45 PM   #29
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2014 F250 Lariat 6.7L Diesel - Tire Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by MLiljen View Post
Ok, I'm nearly sold on ProPride Hitch. No Sway, ever. Woot. However, it seems like there are lots of little parts. Plus, the additional weight.

How hard is the P3 to use when you are parked on non-paved, non-level campsites?

The other thing I noticed is on the "What's improved" section of the pro pride site, they really mention some undesirable characteristics of the Arrow. Parts prone to warping/breaking, etc. Which would actually cause problems underway. I guess that's what makes me uncomfortable about the P3 too... if any of those little parts come loose...could be big problems right? YIKES. Maybe Equilizer is the way to go?


PP is the way to go. Ignore sniping between companies. TW concern a nonstarter.

Hitching on unlevel ground just means learning how. I measure tongue height. Return it to same before backing. Back truck in same way to trailer.

As before, a raised truck with non highway tire makes a bad thing worse. It's simple physics. Raise the center of gravity, and it'll tip sooner. Your choice.

FWIW I've been doing this over forty years. Flat bed and overdimensiomal big truck for more than 20.

There's "best" and there's compromised. The best hitch will help, but it's not a cure. Setting that hitch with
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Old 12-21-2016, 05:20 PM   #30
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Thank you. Gears are complete. Ended up with 4.30 so I can drop a tire size in future. Truck seems happy and mpg improved as well.

They checked the drive train, including driveshaft angles and everything checked out great.

Some slight changes...

Going with EBC slotted rotors and yellow stuff pads. Good reviews.

Air Ride lift. I'm going with a constant duty compressor. Will have a small tank of compressed CO2 onboard as well for airing up after playing in the dirt.

Working with Sean to get P3 ordered. He doesn't seem to think I need a drop hitch. But am confirming in the next few days. Measurement from ground to inside top surface of receiver is 25.5 inches.

I want (neeeeed) an electric tongue jack. Barker 3500 is what I'm leaning towards.

Again, I appreciate the feedback regarding lift and tires. I think you hit the nail on the head...there is best and there is compromised. Fortunately there are significant ranges of what best and compromised really mean. One could argue that any truck pulling a trailer is comprimised. Is my stopping distance and cg higher than an F350 towing a fully loaded fifth wheel? I have no idea.
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Old 12-23-2016, 09:03 PM   #31
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Best tires will be Michelin LTX or Bridgestone Duravis. The latter lasts longer. Either can last over 100k. But if one or other was an OEM offering, it's a decent bet. Not so other brands. Stock sizing.

LT trailer tires is a worthwhile change. Duravis 250 best value in E range.

Air bags not needed. A crutch. Can actually screw up stability. Need to set WD hitch via scale readings. Same for setting TV tire pressure. Do not overinflate.

Greaseable polyurethane antiroll bar bushings on truck as well as Bilstein shocks. Rear Panhard Rod worth considering.
I worked for a major auto manufacturer for 24 years, and I am an experienced "car man."

I would never buy any truck that's been raised with oversized tires. Such trucks are often not taken care of properly, and most suspension components used are not first class. If at all possible, take the suspension back stock. Stock size 4x4's sell fast and at a much better price than raised trucks.

So many modern 4x4 3/4 ton trucks are already too tall to comfortably get passengers into. I don't care to haul a step ladder around.

I've had 2 sets of Firestone OEM tires and a set of Toyo Open Country A/T's on my 3/4 ton truck--all the same quality. I went to Michelin LTX all terrain tires last year, and they're only about $20 more than OEM quality tires. And they drive and ride great--with a long lifespan.

My fifth wheel trailer has Bridgestone Duravis R250's--a ribbed LT/E tire of incredible quality. They're commonly used on power company trucks with utility beds and cranes. But they're not a good tire for day to day driving. The Duravis R500's would be a much better pick for an individual's truck. There again, I'm into stock trucks used to tow RV's.

3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks used for towing need to be kept at 100% condition on the suspension, alignment and brakes. If you're experiencing rear end squat with your trailer attached, go for a set of rear air bags. If not, don't get'em.

OEM shock absorbers are notorious for being weak, and I switched to Bilsteins. I now have Monroe's heaviest shocks that were 1/3 the cost of Bilsteins and I cannot tell the difference.

Brakes are very important and something often overlooked. The Hawk LTS brake pads are #1 for every day use for these trucks.

Light diesel trucks use power steering fluid and their power steering pump to power a Bendix Hydroboost unit that gives you stopping power. Changing the fluid in the steering system is normal routine maintenance that's very often overlooked, and you have no idea how much better my truck stops with new, clean fluids.
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Old 12-27-2016, 04:49 PM   #32
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I'm actually going with the Hensley Arrow. I was really torn between the two (P3 and Arrow). The little lego mockup sealed the deal for me on this type of hitch.

I like the cleaner look of the P3. I like that the arrow bolts to the frame, the hitch, and the set up of the wd jacks. I'm buying a discounted, refurbished hitch. It's about $1k off price of new. That was significant.

Truck tires are done. Now it's just the trailer I need to set up. I only have 3.25 inches between the front and rear trailer tires. Not sure if that is enough room to bump up to a 16 in wheel and a higher rated USA made tire.
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