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Old 01-25-2014, 06:35 PM   #15
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I was only trying to note that the blanket statement you made regarding DRW trucks ('They not only have extra tires, wheels and hubs and brakes, they also have a different, heavier, rear axle and differential') is not always correct.
I didn't make the statement. SmokeyWren did in post #7.

And I would NEVER tell a prospective RVer to go ahead and buy a 2500 or that heavy 5th wheel even though he will be exceeding his GVWR from day 1 because, after all, the 2500 is just like a 3500 SRW except for the badges, rear spring packs and driver's door sticker.

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Old 01-25-2014, 07:40 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by RustyJC View Post
I didn't make the statement. SmokeyWren did in post #7.
My mistake.

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Originally Posted by RustyJC
And I would NEVER tell a prospective RVer to go ahead and buy a 2500 or that heavy 5th wheel even though he will be exceeding his GVWR from day 1 because, after all, the 2500 is just like a 3500 SRW except for the badges, rear spring packs and driver's door sticker.
I think you might have gotten your authors mixed up too? I never said that.

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Originally Posted by smiller
Since the difference in price between the diesel 2500 HD and 3500SRW trucks is usually very small (reflecting the minute difference in the actual vehicles themselves) then if you don't own the truck yet it usually makes sense to just go with the 3500 SRW
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Old 01-26-2014, 07:07 AM   #17
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Thank you all so much. DH went by a Chevy dealership yesterday to check some things out.

We are learning so much here about how to be a safe and reliable traveling neighbor.

Michele
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Old 01-26-2014, 04:19 PM   #18
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You know.. The advice I give to folks who ask about what truck to tow with, the smaller (250) or the larger (350) I used to drive a F-350 Custom on occasion by the way, 10,000 pound GVW option. A straight truck.

Tim Allen used to say on the TV show: Home Improvement, where he played Tim Taylor.. (This is the reason why Mike Baxter on Last Man Standing has the ham call KA0XTT (eX Tim Taylor). (Soon he hopes to have a REAL call however).

MORE POWER.

In fact What I tell 'em is TRAIL-HAULER.COM
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Old 01-26-2014, 04:47 PM   #19
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You know.. The advice I give to folks who ask about what truck to tow with, the smaller (250) or the larger (350) I used to drive a F-350 Custom on occasion by the way, 10,000 pound GVW option. A straight truck.

Tim Allen used to say on the TV show: Home Improvement, where he played Tim Taylor.. (This is the reason why Mike Baxter on Last Man Standing has the ham call KA0XTT (eX Tim Taylor). (Soon he hopes to have a REAL call however).

MORE POWER.

In fact What I tell 'em is TRAIL-HAULER.COM
I guess you have to start somewhere
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Old 01-26-2014, 04:50 PM   #20
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Be advised that is NOT the case with the 2014 Ram trucks. The 3500 trucks have an entirely different frame, suspension, etc. than the 2500 trucks. Cummins powered SRW trucks (2500 or 3500) are only available with a 3.42 axle ratio; duallies get 3.42, 3.73 or 4.10 gears with the GCWR going up as the ratios get lower (numerically higher). So, if you're considering a new Ram/Cummins, the difference is far more than a spring pack, badges or a driver's door sticker.

Just to show why one can't always assume 2500s and 3500s are basically identical, on the 2nd generation 2500/3500 Rams (1995 - 2002), the rear axles were also different. 2500 automatics got a Dana 70, 3500s (they were all duallies) got a true Dana 80. 2500 sticks got a hybrid (Dana 80 center section, Dana 70 outer tube diameters, hubs, bearings, etc.)

Rusty
This is similar with Ford Superduty trucks. The 250/350 SRW use a Ford 10.5 full floating rear axle, E series uses a Dana 70, and the DRW Superduty uses a Dana 80. I never really looked into frame differences or brake differences between the different trucks. But there are differences similar to the Ram between each type of truck. The GM trucks I do not know what axles they use and the differences of the truck sizes. Thus sticking with the manufactures recommendations on towing to maintain a safe and reliable towing experience.
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Old 01-26-2014, 06:41 PM   #21
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Following this informative thread pretty closely, though must admit at this point I'm 98% committed to shopping for an F350 by getting "educated". Been running options for a SuperDuty through Ford's build/price web feature to compare bottom lines.

At the same time, keep flipping over to the specs page, looking at GVWR, towing capacity, and payload package selection. Focusing on 350 CrewCab, 4x2 gasser, short box. For that configuration GVWR varies with 5 rated listings, ranging from 10000 to 11400 pounds. Doing the build price thing I don't find any apparent option choices other than two available axles ratios that would lead to different ratings. So perhaps it comes down to wheel/tire ratings/sizes that are not explained in the option charts? Hmm...did I just answer my own question as I was formulating it? LOL

What it boils down to, is I'd like to figure out what options will get me to the max GVWR, BEFORE talking to a sales person. Probably will go with a 4.3 locking axle, and GUESSING that we will need to go with 18" wheel package...

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Old 01-26-2014, 09:51 PM   #22
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At the same time, keep flipping over to the specs page, looking at GVWR, towing capacity, and payload package selection. Focusing on 350 CrewCab, 4x2 gasser, short box. For that configuration GVWR varies with 5 rated listings, ranging from 10000 to 11400 pounds. ...
Ummmmmmmmm. No.

The easiest way to determine GVWR specs is with a copy of the RV and Trailer Towing Guide (see link below). Scroll down to the page for "maximum cargo weight with slide-in camper".
http://www.ford.com/resources/ford/g...typu_sep11.pdf

The truck you described is an F-350 SRW shorty, with 156.2" wheelbase. With 18" tires and 6.2L gas engine, GVWR of 4x4 is 11,300. GVWR of 4x2 is 10,700. But the net difference in payload available for hitch weight is not much, because the 4x4 drivetrain weighs a lot more than the 4x2. So ordering a 4x4 will increase GVWR, but not net available payload.

Same specs but with 17" tires, GVWR is several hundred pounds less. So yeah, you want 18" tires.

Quote:
What it boils down to, is I'd like to figure out what options will get me to the max GVWR, BEFORE talking to a sales person. Probably will go with a 4.3 locking axle, and GUESSING that we will need to go with 18" wheel package...:
Guessing is not required. Study that RV and Trailer Towing guide and you'll see that if you begin with F-350 SRW gasser shorty, be sure to add 18" tires if you get a lesser trim that has 17" tires standard, you're there. Axle ratio doesn't affect GVWR, but it changes GCWR, so yeah, order the 4.30 E-locker diff to get the max GCWR available with that 6.2L gas engine.

Of course, one way to drastically increase GVWR is to order a dually, but they are not available with a shorty bed.
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:25 PM   #23
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Smokey, thanks for info and linky!

No dually CC with a shorty bed? Oh, darn!

Cheers! BJ
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Old 01-27-2014, 09:27 AM   #24
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No dually CC with a shorty bed? Oh, darn!
Ford offered one a few years ago. But demand was low so most dealers didn't stock them. And most guys with new-truck fever didn't want to wait 6 to 8 weeks after they pulled the trigger before their new truck was delivered. So very few were sold, and Ford stopped offering them.
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Old 01-27-2014, 10:10 AM   #25
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Ford offered one a few years ago. But demand was low so most dealers didn't stock them. And most guys with new-truck fever didn't want to wait 6 to 8 weeks after they pulled the trigger before their new truck was delivered. So very few were sold, and Ford stopped offering them.
Our to-be constructed new home/garage won't fit a dually...and even if it would...

Having been convinced by reading this forum to move up from a heavily optioned 150 to a 350, a SRW will do just fine.

Sale of our existing home closes in a month, need to get a rental home, and get started building our retirement home ASAP. Once things are well underway, then maybe my CFO will let me buy the 350.

Cheers! BJ
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Old 01-27-2014, 10:14 AM   #26
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I'm late to this discussion and this may have been pointed out before but if you are looking at a crew cab it won't take much of a load to put you over the weighted axle rating for a F250.
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Old 01-27-2014, 10:22 AM   #27
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I'm late to this discussion and this may have been pointed out before but if you are looking at a crew cab it won't take much of a load to put you over the weighted axle rating for a F250.
Thanks!

But that's why we will be shopping for a max GVWR 350, and afterwards looking for a TT not to exceed 7500-8000 GVWR. Not full timing, nor long haul sorts of use...don't need to go to far for beautiful country here in the Pacific NW. Thirty minute drive to the Olympic Peninsula, hour and a half to either the coast or the Cascades.

Just me, my DW, her mini poodle, golf clubs, and her fly fishing gear...So we'll make do with a 350.
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Old 01-28-2014, 08:12 AM   #28
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Sale of our existing home closes in a month, need to get a rental home, and get started building our retirement home ASAP.
This is off topic:

Since this will be the house you spend the rest of your lives in, i hope you at least put in the wiring provisions for alternative energy, like Solar or Wind turbines. Shouldn't cost much extra to put the wires up to the roof, or to a panel box outside. So if you do get panels of a turbine, you can just hook it up pretty easily.

I say this because coal fired power plants currently make up 50% of our electrical grid. People are lobbying to get them shut down. On top of that, our electricity prices have been steadily increasing as well. So 10-20 years from now, it makes more sense to invest in producing your own electricity to supplement your home.

I would ask your builder or electrician about making it "solar ready". What the added cost would be. I would also ask to use the heaviest guage(lowest number wire) for the solar panel wiring runs. The heavier the guage, the less resistance in the wire, the less voltage drop between the panel and the grid-tie inverter.

Something like this:
http://www.solarreadyhome.net/
It's basically just the wiring and an empty box which ties into the breaker. When you want to go solar, you just buy the panels and have them mounted on the roof, and buy an inverter which swaps out in place of the empty box.
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