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Old 08-04-2005, 01:15 PM   #15
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They make (or used to) a safety tray which mounts to the hitch and catches the kingpin if it slips out from the hitch. Don't know how well this would work if you were in motion, though.

John (40' 2004 Country Coach Inspire DP)
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Old 08-10-2005, 08:05 PM   #16
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by John66:
They make (or used to) a safety tray which mounts to the hitch and catches the kingpin if it slips out from the hitch. Don't know how well this would work if you were in motion, though. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

It's called the Bed Saver and you can get the info @ BED Saver
Hope this helps

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Old 09-08-2005, 04:13 AM   #17
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I have a Reese 16K and while I have not had a problem with it, I've read of others, such as yourself, who have. It is unfortunately that the responders many times berate the poster for ineptly hooking up, etc.

I purchased a bedsaver for my hitch, as an insurance. It adds 36 LBS to the eight of the hitch. Only problem I had bolting it on was the holes on the side plates did not match up with the bolts on the hitch. I notified BlueOx and they sent me a new pair of side rails. The holes also did not match. I carefully measured and using a diegrinder, elongated the holes to match the Reese bolts.

Bedsaver used to be an independent company but during the past year, they have been bought out by BLUEOX. The company that makes tow bars for dragging a towed behind a motorhome.

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Old 09-08-2005, 05:16 AM   #18
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On my first trip about a year ago, I dropped my fifth wheel also. Ran the interstate about 60 miles, exited and stopped it at a traffic light. Took off and bam, 5th wheel made a bannana out of my tail gate and bent both sides of my truck.Come to find out, I backed in, the pin closed, I put in my lock and took off. Well, the 5th wheel was sitting on top of the slide bar. The only thing that kept it on down the interstate was the about 1/4" bar welded on top of the slide.
From then on, I lowered the 5th wheel until the truck would pick it up when I backed under it, then I used a flashlight to get a good look to make sure.
The lord was looking over me and a lot of folks that day. The break away switch did work because it held the 5th wheel from rolling back. Can not imagine if it had came unhooked at 65 MPH and then the brakes locked, stopping it in from of traffic.
I found out you can hook it up wrong. Drive a RV now, but still remember this.
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Old 10-06-2005, 09:39 AM   #19
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One thing to look at on the Reese hitches is the little locking tab or plate. If the tab is loose or bent out it can allow the hitch handle to move out, releasing the trailer, than the handle snap back in the closed position. This can be a real puzzler trying to find. Check and ensure that the bolt the locking tab rotates on is tight and that the tab is not bent out. In addition, as others have stated insert a lock though the hole in the tab and into the side of the hitch to prevent the tab from raising and releasing the trailer as well as anyone from messing with the hitch. Also as you may already know, Reese states to always hook up with the handle in the closed position and the 5er hitch plate about 1 to 1.5-inches below the height of the hitch ramp. This lets the hitch plate ride up onto the hitch, preventing "high Hitching".
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Old 10-07-2005, 07:03 PM   #20
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I have a 16K Reese borrowed right now and have looked it over carefully deciding if I will buy one to set on the already installed rails in my truck. I will not be purchasing a Jaw type hitch anytime soon. The biggest safety issue is the safety latch. It is flimsy piece of stamped sheet metal that is easily bent. When I got this hitch the safety was bent pretty bad and was only catching the bar by about a 1/32nd of an inch. THe hitches owner had dropped his 37' Hitch Hiker on his truck with the same hitch. It was latched but had no rod inserted into it. After looking at it closely it's no wonder it came unhitched. Short of putting 1/4-20 bolt in and tightening it fully nothing inserted into the hole can keep the latch from moving far enough up to allow the bar to forced through it. No thank You! I will be buying an RBW!
Anybody wonder why the two newest hitches in the Reese line (Pro and Signature Series) don't use the jaw mechanism?
I have never heard of any other brand hitch releasing. Only Reese. Even if it is operator error why should it be so easy to make a potentially fatal mistake?
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Old 10-08-2005, 05:12 AM   #21
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We tow with a Reese Pro series that has the bar rater than the jaws. No problems so far and I always lock the hitch closed with a small pad lock.

Another thing that is a must...I always leave the trailer wheels chocked and hit the trailer brakes and make a test tug with the legs just off the ground. I also use a flash light and visually check that the bar is across the pin properly.

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Old 10-09-2005, 07:05 AM   #22
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I had my Reese 16 come loose also. Took the hitch apart and replaced all the very worn parts. It was worn out! Lots of play in the pins etc.
I now check it for wear regularly.
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Old 10-09-2005, 04:32 PM   #23
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Acouple years ago I noticed the handle on my Reese 16k was sometimes hard to pull. Took a real hard tug. I just ignored it as load against the jaws. Once, when unhooking, the handle came out in my hand after a vigorous tug. I hadn't been keeping the clip washers well enough lubed. These hold the pivot arms to the hinges. They rusted and one failed/came off. I now pull the hitch head off twice a year to clean, inspect and replace if needed those washers and to apply a generous coat of greese - like I was supposed to. I also keep a flashlight in a handy spot in order to visually check the pin is in the closed jaws.

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