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Old 05-01-2016, 09:34 PM   #1
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5th level - 25.5" front & 19" rear. Too much or good?

Took the 5th out of hibernation today and discovered what I expected by measuring Got a new TV since parking it last fall, went from a 2011 Chev 2500HD to a 2015 Ram 2500, and tonight moved the 5th out of it's winter parking spot. It was more or less level with the Chev, but as you can see in the title, it's 6.5" high in the front which is giving me about 8" clearance to the top of the box at the front and 6" at the rear. I am thinking I need to do the over/under conversion with the axles. What does the iRV2 community think?
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Old 05-01-2016, 09:42 PM   #2
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Sure seems like a big difference between the two 2500. I assumed that they are all about the same bed height - bad assumption. Is the RAM lifted?

On our 5er there are holes in the spring mounts that will enable us to lift the 5er by about 4". Does yours have something similar?
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Old 05-01-2016, 09:57 PM   #3
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Both trucks were/are stock, but I never measured the Chev, but it looked closer to level than this. No, there is no adjustment in the shackles, but Dexter website does talk about that.
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Old 05-01-2016, 10:51 PM   #4
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You want the floor of the trailer relatively level, front to rear, when hooked up for towing. If it's not close to level. then make it so.

You can adjust the 5er hitch a bit to get it closer to level, but watch out that you still have enough clearance between the top of the bedrails and the underside of the 5er overhang. I prefer at least 6" clearance when truck and trailer are level with each other.

If you have Dexter TorFlex axles on the trailer, then Dexter makes a lift kit to raise the trailer a few inches. If your trailer has plain ole leaf springs, then you can move the spring perches from under the axles to over the axles and gain 4 or 5".
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Old 05-02-2016, 10:21 AM   #5
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Another option is tires and rims.

If you have 15 in rims go to 16 and 225/80 or 235/85 tires if you can fit them in the wheelwell.

That will give you 3-4in as well.

Spring over adds more leverage to the shackle to frame area and you should have a subframe fabricated to take the load from twisting the frame
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Old 05-02-2016, 10:33 AM   #6
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Can we assume you have the pinbox at its highest setting and your hitch head at its lowest setting and it's still nose-high? If so, then yes, you need to do one or more of the things already mentioned.
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Old 05-02-2016, 11:54 AM   #7
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So... maybe I missed something... You said the trailer was level with the '11 cheby, but with the '15 RAM it is 6.5" high in the front... There is no way a stock RAM is 6.5" higher than a stock '11 Cheby is there or would it need to be 3.25" higher... hmmm... Monday.

Anyway... If you have 8" of space between the bottom of the 5er neck and the bed rails, i would lower that 2" if not 3"... That would get it within an inch or so of level and I believe that would be sufficient..
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Old 05-02-2016, 02:41 PM   #8
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So... maybe I missed something... You said the trailer was level with the '11 cheby, but with the '15 RAM it is 6.5" high in the front... There is no way a stock RAM is 6.5" higher than a stock '11 Cheby is there or would it need to be 3.25" higher... hmmm... Monday.

Anyway... If you have 8" of space between the bottom of the 5er neck and the bed rails, i would lower that 2" if not 3"... That would get it within an inch or so of level and I believe that would be sufficient..


The new ram trucks are ridiculously high. I came from a Ferd and to a 15 Ram...need step stool now
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Old 05-02-2016, 04:26 PM   #9
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Lol... I have always needed a step stool, guess it's the curse of a short man!
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Old 05-03-2016, 07:35 AM   #10
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Quote:
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So... maybe I missed something... You said the trailer was level with the '11 cheby, but with the '15 RAM it is 6.5" high in the front... There is no way a stock RAM is 6.5" higher than a stock '11 Cheby is there or would it need to be 3.25" higher... hmmm... Monday.

Anyway... If you have 8" of space between the bottom of the 5er neck and the bed rails, i would lower that 2" if not 3"... That would get it within an inch or so of level and I believe that would be sufficient..
I said it looked more level, I did not measure it because of this, but that is not the issue. All I am asking you fine folk is if 6" is too much as it puts more weight on the rear axle than the front?
To reply to the other question of pinbox/fifth heights, I think I am good where it is, cause like I said, currently with the angle it sits, I have 8" clearance from top of box to underside of trailer at the front and 6" at rear, so if I level the unit with over/under conversion, I should come out with 7", which is close to ideal!
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Old 05-03-2016, 08:02 AM   #11
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I said it looked more level, I did not measure it because of this, but that is not the issue. All I am asking you fine folk is if 6" is too much as it puts more weight on the rear axle than the front?
To reply to the other question of pinbox/fifth heights, I think I am good where it is, cause like I said, currently with the angle it sits, I have 8" clearance from top of box to underside of trailer at the front and 6" at rear, so if I level the unit with over/under conversion, I should come out with 7", which is close to ideal!
My answer WRT pinbox/hitch height is based on my understanding that 6" bedrail to FW is optimal and 5" would be okay. What you have now, which I consider extreme nose-high, could be somewhat resolved by adjusting the easy stuff first. I'd you decide instead to change over/under to get to 7", go for it.
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Old 05-03-2016, 09:28 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmstepa View Post
I said it looked more level, I did not measure it because of this, but that is not the issue. All I am asking you fine folk is if 6" is too much as it puts more weight on the rear axle than the front?
To reply to the other question of pinbox/fifth heights, I think I am good where it is, cause like I said, currently with the angle it sits, I have 8" clearance from top of box to underside of trailer at the front and 6" at rear, so if I level the unit with over/under conversion, I should come out with 7", which is close to ideal!
As long as the equalizer between the springs for each axle is not bottomed out one way or the other, you are not transferring more weight to the rear axle than the front. That is the purpose of the equalizer, to keep the load even on the two axles as long as it is not out of travel.
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Old 05-03-2016, 10:30 AM   #13
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My answer WRT pinbox/hitch height is based on my understanding that 6" bedrail to FW is optimal and 5" would be okay. What you have now, which I consider extreme nose-high, could be somewhat resolved by adjusting the easy stuff first. I'd you decide instead to change over/under to get to 7", go for it.
I see, from what I've read on forums it seemed to be 6-8" was more the norm. On the Chevy, I had a hard tonneau cover which would fold forward to the front panel, thus increasing the box height there by at least 3", which made it very close to the trailer when turning sharp. I do not have that one this truck, but am considering it, therefore my preference is to have more than less box-to-trailer clearance then less. Thanks for your reply though.
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Old 05-03-2016, 05:42 PM   #14
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Been gone form this place for awhile. Good to be back. I just dealt with a leveling issue with my setup and have done alot of research. There are many ways to tackle this. The main thing is to measure measure measure and study study study. For my situation, we started way back with a 99 2500 Dodge. It was complete factory and fit our 5'er well. We eventually moved to an 04, same model, that had been slightly lifted and leveled. It created a nose high situation that was adjusted close enough by shrinking the hitch height and pin box. Then we moved to today, with a 4x4 3500 Dodge Diesel. That put us in a situation of being way too nose high. High enough for the back tires on the trailer to rub the floor and the front tires to go up in smoke if just the slightest brake was applied. After alot of studying, I lifted my 5'er witha 4 inch sub frame. Probably a project that was a bit extreme for most but I felt comfortable with it. It would be alot to talk about in one reply but once done, it turned out to be perfect. it now pulls better than it ever has and is not too extreme of a lift to make you say ouch. Most don't even notice it.

A spring change from below to above the axle will make a huge difference. My springs were already above the axle. It can be difficult to change tire size. In our town, trailer tires and rims aren't readily available.

Of course another option is to lower the back of the truck, which there are kits easily ordered and installed. But do you want to void the warranty an your $60k truck? Not me. Plus that would be like taking your man truck card away.

And yes, the new Dodges, especially the 3500's are way way higher. I can look into the bed of the 04 and have to hop to see into the bed of the 3500. (I still have the 04)
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