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Old 04-23-2017, 09:13 PM   #43
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I suspect I'm light. I haven't weighed it yet but the spec sheet from Jayco says unloaded weight is 9635 lbs and the dry hitch is 1795 lbs which is only 18.6%. Even loaded up, it's probably not much more than the low 20% range. Other than shifting cargo as much forward as I can, there's not much I can do to increase pin weight is there? Can't move the axles back.
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Old 04-23-2017, 09:39 PM   #44
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Nope, can't move axles. Might help to adjust the load forward - just don't exceed your truck's payload rating.

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Old 04-27-2017, 05:10 PM   #45
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Anybody know of any bed damage to the new Fords with the aluminum bed. I read somewhere where Anderson had some issue about that????
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Old 04-27-2017, 05:19 PM   #46
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Can't specifically comment on the new Ford's but I do know that some have reported dented beds(ridges on the beds being pushed in/dented on the "old style" steel beds. I had some wear on the bed liner(spray on) after one trip. Andersen recommends a rubber mat under the hitch which I now have. I wouldn't expect any better results on the aluminum beds.
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Old 04-27-2017, 08:28 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minnow View Post
Andersen recommends a rubber mat under the hitch which I now have. I wouldn't expect any better results on the aluminum beds.
A small matt just under the hitch or full bed? Need to get one for my truck.
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Old 04-28-2017, 07:55 AM   #48
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Just under the frame of the hitch. I bought a full bed mat off CL for $35 but I've read where others have gone to Tractor Supply (Farm supply store) and bought a small animal rubber mat. The mat keeps the Andersen from shifting slightly, thus negating the scrapping of the bed some (me) saw and also provides cushioning to keep the hitch from crushing the ribs of the bed box.
The mat would only be needed if you have the gooseball version as with the rail mount version, the hitch sits on the rails or picture frame adaptor.
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Old 05-02-2017, 04:47 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by 1carguy View Post
I suspect I'm light. I haven't weighed it yet but the spec sheet from Jayco says unloaded weight is 9635 lbs and the dry hitch is 1795 lbs which is only 18.6%. Even loaded up, it's probably not much more than the low 20% range. Other than shifting cargo as much forward as I can, there's not much I can do to increase pin weight is there? Can't move the axles back.
My 5er loaded up is about 18% pin weight and pulls extremely well there... something sounds odd... Note i dont have an anderson but vant imagine that being the cause??? Maybe?
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Old 05-03-2017, 09:20 AM   #50
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chertz - Without buying a new 5th wheel hitch to try it, I don't know whether the Andersen hitch is the cause or not. There are so many different opinions out there...some say it's the AU that's the problem, others say that the AU hitch is the smoothest hitch available. Most of these possible remedies are trial and error. The pin weight issue is easiest (and least expensive) thing to test. I'll load the front end with ballast, road test it and if it goes away start removing weight until I find the sweet spot. It would be a shame to tow around extra weight but anything would be better than chucking and jerking. Even it that improves it I will still probably buy a shock absorbing pin box like MORryde, Demco, or TrailAir.
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Old 05-04-2017, 05:15 AM   #51
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Thanks carguy.... hope you find the issue... a 5er should pull smoothly so you almost forget it's there.
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Old 05-05-2017, 09:29 AM   #52
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Just a comment on Chucking. Chucking is aggravated by accumulated tolerances of all the pieces/connections/mounting from the King Pin to the truck chassis mounting point. With the Andersen the only point would be the Ball into the Adapter box on the King Pin. However, I do recall a post long ago where a user couldn't find the source of the slop. The culprit was the B&W mount. Not installed/torqued properly. I say B&W generically. I don't know if it was their product. It is a place or something to check.
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Old 05-14-2017, 04:29 PM   #53
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In a trial and error effort to solve this chucking problem, I decided to try the least expensive thing first.....add pin weight. Today I shifted as much gear forward as I could and completely filled my 2 gray water tanks and black tank with water (these tanks are forward of the axles). Added over 800 lbs with water and gear. Took it for a test drive and at first I thought it might be better. After a couple of miles on rough freeway, I realized it wasn't so back to the drawing board. Next thing will probably be a Demco or MORryde pinbox.
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Old 05-25-2017, 09:45 AM   #54
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Had an F250 CC Short bed. First I used a B&W Slider RVK3400. The slider would bind frequently. After I sent the first hitch back to B&W, the replacement would be fine for about 2 slides, then it would start binding again. I sent it back for a refund. B&W really stands behind their product. I hope they get it resolved, because aside from being 270lbs and dangerously heavy for even two people to remove from the bed, it is a good hitch.

After seeing really positive reviews I went with the anderson ultimate aluminum. The simplicity of the hitch is awesome. I found I didn't need the slide to navigate the trailer into gas stations (F-250 was a 6.2 gasser ) or angled back in spots at campgrounds.

I'm really happy with it. It will leave a very faint impression in your bed, but not as bad as the B&W did. Having a line-x bed liner will prevent this. I upgraded to a DRW F-350 with the line-x liner and I no longer have any denting in the bed when towing. I had the Ford factory coated bed liner in my F-250.

I'm really happy with the Anderson. I can pick up the hitch with one hand and throw it in the back of the toyhauler. Can't beat that.
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Old 05-25-2017, 12:18 PM   #55
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Had an F250 CC Short bed. First I used a B&W Slider RVK3400. The slider would bind frequently. After I sent the first hitch back to B&W, the replacement would be fine for about 2 slides, then it would start binding again. I sent it back for a refund. B&W really stands behind their product. I hope they get it resolved, because aside from being 270lbs and dangerously heavy for even two people to remove from the bed, it is a good hitch.

After seeing really positive reviews I went with the anderson ultimate aluminum. The simplicity of the hitch is awesome. I found I didn't need the slide to navigate the trailer into gas stations (F-250 was a 6.2 gasser ) or angled back in spots at campgrounds.

I'm really happy with it. It will leave a very faint impression in your bed, but not as bad as the B&W did. Having a line-x bed liner will prevent this. I upgraded to a DRW F-350 with the line-x liner and I no longer have any denting in the bed when towing. I had the Ford factory coated bed liner in my F-250.

I'm really happy with the Anderson. I can pick up the hitch with one hand and throw it in the back of the toyhauler. Can't beat that.
Placing a rubber mat underneath the hitch will prevent damage to the bed. I have the Line X too but noticed slight rub marks on the Line X where the hitch sits. Andersen recommended the mat. You can get a mat at Tractor Supply or other farm supply stores.
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Old 05-30-2017, 07:34 AM   #56
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So after cursing myself with my last post, I finally manage to barely scrape my bedrail when backing in to my storage spot yesterday. My fault for not having the ball higher. My storage lot is not ideal, and it has a weird drainage ditch that I have to back through at a weird angle to get my trailer straight. I put up with it because it's the closest yard to my house.

Just took an 1/8th inch strip about 6 inches long off the plastic rail topper on my F-350. First time it's happened when backing in, I was running 70lbs in the airbags, I normally only run about 45. Letting the air out before backing in would have prevented this due to the decreased rake in the truck at lower air pressure.
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