Axle ratio change costs

[Shekinah]

Hi Guys,
I've read so many of your questions and answers throughout the site...It's really good and a big thank you for past Q and A
My question concerns 2006/7 Dodge 3500 4 x 2.(to pull a 32 footer).
On this truck the 4.10 axle ratio gives a greater towing capability (21,000 to 23,000lbs) This info comes from the Dodge 2006 catalogue.
What does it cost to change from a 3.73 axle ratio to a 4.10?
Tom.

[450Donn]

IMHO I would not worry about it. The axle ratio you have is almost perfect most trailers up to and including 12K. I have a 6.7L 4.10 rear end and while it works great for my weight (13,350 ready to camp) I am firmly convinced that the 3.73 would also work just as well. Just because you are close I would not change until you actually tow a few times to figure out if it is necessary.
As to cost, depending on where it is done, it could cost you as little as 750 dollars to as much as 1500 dollars per axle. Best prices would probably be a performance shop that does it all the time.

[CD]

Shekinah
I agree with Don on one point. Try it first. I had a 354 in our first 2001 and I didn't like it. I don't like towing @ 65/70 which you need to do to get into the best power range (at least with the 6 speed manual). At 60 it was running @ about 1750 and 2000 is the sweet spot. When I would start up a hill I had to shift down or the exhaust temp would start climbing. The 373 won't be quite as bad. I only lost about 1/2 MPG with the 410.

[Shekinah]

Thanks Don and Cliff,
"it could cost you as little as 750 dollars to as much as 1500 dollars per axle"
Does this mean I'd need to do both axles (on a 4 x 4)?
Also, our pref for the 5th wheel (not bought yet) is a 33ft Jayco (2006 ish) or Sundance 2010 which has a GVWR of 13,970.
The 3.73 axle has a tow rating of 21,000 whilst the 4.10 is 23,000 lbs.
I'm thinking the rig will go between the two weights here.
I understand the sense of your advice to wait and see but it will start pushing the legal aspect here.
Tom.

[CD]

Either change both or remove front drive line because you CAN"T use 4X4.

[RustyJC]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shekinah Does this mean I'd need to do both axles (on a 4 x 4)?

Absolutely, if you're ever going to shift into 4 wheel drive mode.

Rusty

[Ray,IN]

I had differential gearing in my 2WD 96 Dodge 3/4T CTD; from 3:54 to 4:10 and the change was quite noticeable. Total cost, in 2005, was just over $800.You can get an idea of gear-set cost for your vehicle here: Ring And Pinion Gears, Axles and Axle Shafts, Drivetrain Parts and Tools - Accu Auto Parts
Labor may be twice the cost of the gear-set. Who performs the work is very important. A poor job will make you very unhappy. I asked about where to go, and located a specialty shop that only works on differentials, transfer cases, etc., and was well pleased with their work.

[Parkerrs]

I used to tow a 36' Mountain Aire, approx. 14,000lbs. with a 99 Dodge 3500. I used the 3:54 ratio and had no problems. I do tow at 65MPH or better. The only thing you had to worry about was turning off the overdrive while in the mountains. I only did that on steep grades. I used this combination from coast to coast and over the rockies several times with no problem. I also averaged about 13.5-14mpg with the higher gear.

The torque of the diesel made the difference, I wouldn't have attempted that gear ratio with a gas engine. Also for the rockies or out west I installed a 100 gal. aux. fuel tank in the bed with a transfer switch and an exhaust brake. The unit was also an automatic trans. and pulled just fine.

[Shekinah]

Hey Guys,
Thanks for your answers - my 5th wheel knowledge has just risen another couple of levels because of your answers!
Tom.

[SuperGewl]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shekinah Thanks Don and Cliff, "it could cost you as little as 750 dollars to as much as 1500 dollars per axle" Does this mean I'd need to do both axles (on a 4 x 4)? Also, our pref for the 5th wheel (not bought yet) is a 33ft Jayco (2006 ish) or Sundance 2010 which has a GVWR of 13,970. The 3.73 axle has a tow rating of 21,000 whilst the 4.10 is 23,000 lbs. I'm thinking the rig will go between the two weights here. I understand the sense of your advice to wait and see but it will start pushing the legal aspect here. Tom.

As far as legal aspect it won't matter because you won't be able to get your TV reclassified very cheeply even if you do change the gearing.

[Shekinah]

SuperGewl,
I hadn't thought of that. So the authorities would still class the vehicle as it was originally (3.73), even if you could show receipts for the upgrade work (to 4.10).
To reclassify, would they need a full machinery inspection or just some kind of affidavit from the workshop that carried out the work?

[SuperGewl]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shekinah SuperGewl, I hadn't thought of that. So the authorities would still class the vehicle as it was originally (3.73), even if you could show receipts for the upgrade work (to 4.10). To reclassify, would they need a full machinery inspection or just some kind of affidavit from the workshop that carried out the work?

I havee not been able to get a clear answer to getting your TV reclassified for upgrades. Some have said it doesn't matter, it's only what the VIN # GVWR/GCVR as stated by the MFG and some have said it's not cost effective. If you can find out actuall who would do it and the cost please let me know because I would want mine done also.

[dayle1]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperGewl I havee not been able to get a clear answer to getting your TV reclassified for upgrades. Some have said it doesn't matter, it's only what the VIN # GVWR/GCVR as stated by the MFG and some have said it's not cost effective. If you can find out actuall who would do it and the cost please let me know because I would want mine done also.

Generally, DOT only cares that you don't exceed the GAWRs, meaning that you are not overloading the tires/axles. They don't care about GVWR or GCWR. Your state only cares about GVWR, but even then, they don't care what the manufacturer claims the GVWR is, the state will gladly license and tax you for whatever GVWR you want to put on the truck. And nobody cares about GCWR as long as your actual weight is below 26K. So, it would be a waste of money to get the truck re-certified for a higher GCWR and that is the only number that changes with an axle ratio change.

[Ray,IN]

Larry is right. In the U.S. door sticker ratings have no basis in law, they are recommendations. LEO's do have discretion here to arrest obvious over-weight (unsafe) rig drivers.
Some Canadian provinces do have laws recognizing door sticker ratings as legal standing, and enforce them.