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Old 05-08-2005, 05:00 PM   #1
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In preparation for 1st trip of season I pulled the breakaway switch to test brakes. It blows the in-line fuse on the TT 12V battery. TV brakes seem to operate brakes fine. I assumed the breakaway pin pulls out and makes a connection so I cut the electrical lines to it and touched together and it too blew the fuse. I have since re-spliced these. Any ideas where I might have a short or are there any other ideas what may cause this.

1 more while I am here:
Any recommendations on if I should use additional mirrors on a Ford F-150 to tow a 21' long and 7.5' wide TT.
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Old 05-08-2005, 05:00 PM   #2
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In preparation for 1st trip of season I pulled the breakaway switch to test brakes. It blows the in-line fuse on the TT 12V battery. TV brakes seem to operate brakes fine. I assumed the breakaway pin pulls out and makes a connection so I cut the electrical lines to it and touched together and it too blew the fuse. I have since re-spliced these. Any ideas where I might have a short or are there any other ideas what may cause this.

1 more while I am here:
Any recommendations on if I should use additional mirrors on a Ford F-150 to tow a 21' long and 7.5' wide TT.
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Old 05-08-2005, 08:39 PM   #3
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The emergency breakaway switch should not be fused in my opinion. This is a last ditch effort to stop the trailer if it becomes disconnected from the TV, and protecting the wiring from overcurrent is not a primary concern. I once pulled mine to test each magnets voltage draw, and the entire switch melted from the current flow(direct short-in effect) after about 1/2 hour. MIRRORS, They should extend out far enough to be able to see behind you(and RV), remembering that 8'6" is the maximum legal width including mirrors.
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Old 05-09-2005, 05:33 PM   #4
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I believe most magnets draw about 5 amps max at 12 volts, so total current draw should be about 20 amps for a four brake system. I'd use at least a 30 amp fuse, and it should hold that current draw for quite a long time.
Is the in-line fuse big enough for the brake magnets? There also may be other problems in the system.
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Old 05-09-2005, 06:38 PM   #5
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I appreciate the info on the current draws. It does have a 30 amp fuse right off of the battery and nothing other than the gas detector is running.
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Old 05-09-2005, 09:58 PM   #6
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.....short in the system-probably a slit in the wire shielding during the build process.....geofkaye
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Old 05-12-2005, 04:12 PM   #7
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Similar problem a couple of years ago.... Mouse chewed and shorted a wire to the frame...
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Old 05-29-2005, 08:07 PM   #8
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If you are pulling the pin while you have the power cord connected you are lucky you are not tosting the controller ,disconnect the power cord then try the pull away it should work ok.
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Old 06-06-2005, 05:42 AM   #9
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I was reading this post and was wondering about the breakaway battery and kit as far as where it mounts and how it functions? I might be pulling a travel trailer from time to time, so was wondering also where the system can be purchased? thanks for the info
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Old 06-12-2005, 11:04 AM   #10
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The breakaway is mounted on the trailer tongue. A cable connects to the bumber of the TV. If the camper becomes disconnected from the TV the pin gets pulled and the brakes on the camper lock up bringing it to a stop. It cost me less than $10 at a local shop to have it diagnosed and installed. It was a short of the unit with the camper frame that caused the problem. Fixed and operating fine!
PS Many sources have indicated not to pull the pin if the camper is connected to the TV's electric.
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