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Old 12-13-2014, 12:04 PM   #15
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When changing Load ratings use the load/inflation guide for the tire being installed. Know actual weight on thew tires and add 5psi. This is per GY Tech.
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Old 12-14-2014, 10:30 AM   #16
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In another thread, tire expert Roger Marble advised that he weighs his unit and grosses up the load by 20% before he goes to the tire chart.
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Old 12-14-2014, 02:44 PM   #17
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I have used the inflation chart on two separate RV's and added 5psi based on weight. I checked the tread wear over many thousands of miles and the tread was even across the tread. I think I will stick to GoodYears Tech Support recommendations.
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Old 12-15-2014, 10:37 AM   #18
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Personally I do not think we will see much difference on the GY Tech method or Roger's method since the tires will age out before they wear out in most cases.

I think Roger's method will give a harsher ride.
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Old 01-08-2015, 05:31 PM   #19
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Personally I do not think we will see much difference on the GY Tech method or Roger's method since the tires will age out before they wear out in most cases.

I think Roger's method will give a harsher ride.
I put Michelin 10 plys on my 150. The michelin people said that the weight rating on their tire would match the weight rating on the OEM p rated , if I inflated them to 48PSI.
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Old 01-10-2015, 07:52 AM   #20
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I put Michelin 10 plys on my 150. The michelin people said that the weight rating on their tire would match the weight rating on the OEM p rated , if I inflated them to 48PSI.
They told me the same thing here.

But recently I've started inflating mine to 60-65psi as I may be getting a bit more wear on the edges than in the middle. We'll see. The Ford take-off alloy wheels seem to handle the extra psi ok.

I got these E rated LTs instead of LT C-rated tires because of the extra plies. Even if not necessary to carry the weight, figured they would help protect against road debris and potholes, especially as my truck is running fully loaded most of the time.

Wonder if the tire professionals agree with that?
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Old 01-11-2015, 02:31 PM   #21
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They told me the same thing here.

But recently I've started inflating mine to 60-65psi as I may be getting a bit more wear on the edges than in the middle. We'll see. The Ford take-off alloy wheels seem to handle the extra psi ok.

I got these E rated LTs instead of LT C-rated tires because of the extra plies. Even if not necessary to carry the weight, figured they would help protect against road debris and potholes, especially as my truck is running fully loaded most of the time.

Wonder if the tire professionals agree with that?
Tires may be in question but I also have doubts about the rating of the wheels provided as standard equipment. If they are going to go cheap on the tires I have reservations they will go overboard on the rims.
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Old 01-11-2015, 04:09 PM   #22
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Tires may be in question but I also have doubts about the rating of the wheels provided as standard equipment. If they are going to go cheap on the tires I have reservations they will go overboard on the rims.
Ford provides weight ratings for the wheels and they are good. Same or greater than the GAWR.
But I've never found any psi ratings. Looked on the wheels for a stamp but no luck.

Been told that most Al alloy rims will go to 80psi without problems, it's steel wheels where you might have issues with psi. But who knows? That was just an internet comment. Also told that if there's a problem, it will not be catastrophic with alloy wheels, just a slow leak. So far, that hasn't happened.

And the tires are not necessarily cheap, they're just P rated and soft, and that's what's appropriate for most F150s which are just used as commuters and "grocery-getters". But not for my fully loaded tow truck.
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Old 01-11-2015, 04:30 PM   #23
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There are two rules I follow when folks ask "Can I tow it?"

One: If you have to ask... UPGRADE

Two TRAIL-HAULER.COM

Folks who shop that URL, do not ever ask that question again.
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Old 01-11-2015, 04:36 PM   #24
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Based on the info the OP provided, he would not exceed the tow ratings for this truck with the trailer he's looking at. I do agree he should upgrade all four tires to E vice D. I did so with my F150 and I barely noticed a difference in the ride, and yes, tire pressure can be reduced accordingly when not towing. The OP will need a WDH which I don't think anyone else mentioned, and the existing hitch reciever may be a Class III that should be upgraded to a Class IV if possible on that truck.
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Old 01-13-2015, 08:28 PM   #25
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You have all the numbers, your decision, you are legally responsible for having an adequate tow vehicle. Others have found out that forum personal opinions dont help in court when they have had an accident and have felony charges against them for injuring family members and others.
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Old 01-13-2015, 09:11 PM   #26
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Where is the proof. Every RV accident I have seen the trailer is all in pieces and picked by empty frame. How can that hurt the occupants. I pitty the car that cuts me off.
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Old 01-13-2015, 10:12 PM   #27
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Yes, I also would like to know "Others have found out that forum personal opinions dont help in court when they have had an accident and have felony charges against them for injuring family members and others" Please post your sources--felony charges, I think not.
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Old 01-14-2015, 12:07 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
There are two rules I follow when folks ask "Can I tow it?"

One: If you have to ask... UPGRADE

Two TRAIL-HAULER.COM

Folks who shop that URL, do not ever ask that question again.
Been thinking about the question "Can I tow that trailer with my truck?".

Is it the proper question? A better question is "SHOULD I tow that trailer with my truck?"

Can I tow the trailer - probably. Safely - maybe.

Should I tow the trailer - No.

We tend to use varying rationale when we debate the question. We suggest that the manufacturer will overbuild the truck and then put a marginal factor in like tires or springs.

In todays race for marketing the best truck (mileage, weight rating, power) how close are they running the numbers to get sales and make profit?
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