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Old 05-04-2016, 09:06 AM   #1
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Current TV is 3500 DRW, considering SRW

Our rig (35' 10k# trailer) is as stable as a rock. So easy we frequently drive 500mi days and arrive in stress free condition. :-).

The rig is so easy my wife likes to drive at least half the time.

That said, I have zero experience towing w/ SRW. We are considering switching to a 3500 SRW but are not sure how it will affect the towing experience above.

With the configurations I am looking at I know there will be a bit less towing capacity and about 20% less payload capacity. And those limits will suit my needs.

Can you folk that 1) have a comparable sized trailer 2)have had made the transition one direction or the other comment on what we could expect when towing?

TIA
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Old 05-04-2016, 10:02 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjlakatos View Post
Our rig (35' 10k# trailer)...With the configurations I am looking at I know there will be a bit less towing capacity and about 20% less payload capacity. And those limits will suit my needs.
Maybe, but double-check your math. The biggest problem with SRW pickups towing a 10k trailer is payload capacity of the SRW. Your DRW gives you a lot more payload capacity than the similar truck with SRW.

If your trailer actually has a max wet and loaded weight of 10,000 pounds, it probably has about 2,000 pounds pin weight. Add another 200 pounds for a good 5er hitch installed and that's 2,200 pounds.

With a 2015 Ford F-350 SRW diesel longbed 4x4 CrewCab, the GVWR is 11,500. With 2,200 pounds of gross hitch weight, the DRW is adequate for a lightly-loaded tow vehicle. But a heavily-loaded tow vehicle with the 10k trailer tied on will probably exceed the payload capacity of the SRW.

Same tow vehicle but DRW has 14,000 pounds GVWR. 2500 pounds of additional GVWR is about 2,000 pounds additional payload capacity (the DRW is about 400 to 500 pounds heavier than the SRW). That's enough wiggle room so you never need worry about being overloaded. But with the SRW, you'll constantly be concerned with how much weight you are hauling in the tow vehicle.

Plus most members here that went from SRW to DRW praise the additional stability of the DRW. You'll probably be disappointed with the way the SRW tows your trailer compared with the way your DRW does it.
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Old 05-04-2016, 10:35 AM   #3
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I have a 2007 3500 SRW Quad Cab Longbed with 4:10 and 48Re Tranny

Tow 34' High Profile (13'4") 14K (13,873# Scaled Weight) 5th wheel........first 7 yrs was FT traveling weekly.
West Coast, East Coast, Northern Range, Southern Range and many many point in between.

Never, NEVER did I feel 'un-stable', 'out of control', 'white knuckler', OMG I which I had a DWR etc etc etc.

Was I at Max Ratings.........yep
Did I exceed ratings..........yep ----trucks GVWR and payload
Wet Pin Weight was 3130# (22.5% pin weight)
Right at Rear Axle Rating-----just under Rear Tires Max Load Ratings

Towed like a champ, handles better towing then truck alone, smooth ride, Tow/Haul Mode----set cruise at 62 mph and off we go (11.5 mpg)

Don't NEED no DWR

Course when properly set up-----matched up ANY vehicle can be a good tow vehicle
From 1/4 ton to 1/2 ton to 1 ton Single and Dual.

Just a simple math exam........Identify the numbers then match them up
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Old 05-05-2016, 05:06 AM   #4
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He has a TT folks. I pulling a similar size and weight trailer with a DRW truck as well. I'm interested to hear some of the responses as my next truck could very well be a SRW. I have always preferred a DRW for any serious towing but as the price of trucks continues to creep up we will probably consider an F-350 or 3500 SRW next time around.

I actually need as much payload as I can get because we carry a 1,000lb golfcart in the bed. So the the truck is carrying about 2500lbs at all times.
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Old 05-05-2016, 06:15 AM   #5
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You really need to scale everything. Without accurate scaled weights of both the truck loaded, unloaded and the trailer everyrhing is simply a guessing game. Which you could end up on the wrong side of atmthe end of the day.
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Old 05-05-2016, 06:34 AM   #6
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Regardless of weight, after being a SRW guy for years, then going to a DRW, if you can stay DRW do it. You will never hear people say they have too much truck or dang I hate it that my pull over the mountains was so easy, I much prefer a knuckle biter way of driving. For us pulling with a SRW wasn't bad at all but that first pull with the DRW we all said wow just a mile away form the driveway
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Old 05-05-2016, 08:17 AM   #7
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He has a TT folks.
Yeah, I missed that. So instead of 2,200 pounds hitch weight, he's probably closer to 1,500, including a heavy ProPride hitch. That difference makes an SRW okay, provided he pays the big bucks for a ProPride hitch rated for 1,400 pounds tongue weight (TW), and provided his receiver is rated for at least 1,500 pounds.
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Old 05-05-2016, 08:19 AM   #8
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When a dually blows a rear tire...you still have 3 more to get you off the road to a good spot to change.
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Old 05-05-2016, 08:55 AM   #9
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Tow our 9200lb TT with a 2500. I've installed air bags and tires rated for 3700lbs. Also now have 400lb planter box in the bed. No problems at all towing the weight. Heck I'm curious how a DRW could be any more stable. I have an equalizer 4pt wdh which I now know makes a huge difference over the standard chain and bar.
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Old 05-05-2016, 10:01 AM   #10
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When a dually blows a rear tire...you still have 3 more to get you off the road to a good spot to change.

Unless you blow a front tire.
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Old 05-05-2016, 10:07 AM   #11
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This is ridiculous. Most any new SRW 2500 gasser or 3500 diesel will have plenty of payload. 1000s of people are towing that same size load without an issue with SRW. Look around any CG, you very rarely see anyone using an DRW to tow that size TT. Most DRWs are towing a larger 5th wheel.
If the TT is tracking perfect now it will track perfect with a SRW. If the OP was having sway/wiggle issues with the TT then he'd have them with a DRW or SRW. The TT doesn't care what's pulling it.
If it were me I would get a 3500 SRW diesel for that TT. I'd have upwards of 4000lbs for payload and plenty of power to tow with.
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Old 05-05-2016, 10:17 AM   #12
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Either way you go, follow the math for safety instead of following the 'ol famous, "I see people doing it all the time, so it must be OK" school of thought. Good luck
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Old 05-05-2016, 11:45 AM   #13
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When a dually blows a rear tire...you still have 3 more to get you off the road to a good spot to change.
When mine was new to me, we were on a trip with no trailer. We picked up a nail in an inside tire. That tire leaked down to about 40 and stayed at that point. The other one was keeping enough weight off of it I guess to not push any more out. I didn't have to worry about changing it. I did learn that whoever put the tires on the back didn't clock the holes right so it wasn't easy to put a gauge on it or add air. When I got it fixed, I had them clock them so I can put my hands on all the stems.

And just a habit now after that. When I stop places, I kick each of the back tires. The wife tells me to please don't do that every time. I have 6 screws and a fixation plate in my spine. Tossing one of those tires into the bed probably is not the best thing I should be doing. Probably not the best thing for anyone.
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Old 05-05-2016, 11:51 AM   #14
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There is no-way a SRW will be as stable as a DRW towing 10K. It is acceptable for me because I don't want DRW most of the time.
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