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Old 06-27-2012, 08:01 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by havingfun13 View Post
Manuals and calculations are misleading and confusing. Best way to determine is to load up and pay the $9.50 for CAT scale certified weight. Manual states this vehicle can pull 7400, the camper weighed 6530 loaded. So with Yukon loaded and family aboard we weighed 13,580. According to the book the combined weight should be 13,000.
I'm sure we're going to have individuals who think that I'm a charter member of the weight police fainting left and right, but let's consider that you're over your rated GCWR by 4.46%. Yes, you're overweight in that regard, but frankly most of us have run SLIGHTLY over a GCWR and/or GVWR (NOT over GAWRs) when we traded RVs until we made the next tow vehicle upgrade - myself included. As long as you recognize your limitations (e.g., understand that you're pushing the cooling capacity of your engine, transmission, rear axle, keep plenty of cushion for stopping distance and don't ride the brakes on the downhills, etc.) and aren't experiencing any of these symptoms at present, I wouldn't park the rig over 4.46%. Yes, I'd be on the lookout for an appropriate tow vehicle or RV for your next purchase, and I'd probably add another oil-to-air transmission cooler plumbed upstream of your existing cooler(s) - I'm not minimizing that, but your situation is actually relatively mild compared to any number that I've seen on here and in campgrounds.

The above is my humble opinion only and is not to be construed as the official position of the locally chartered chapter of the weight police. In fact, it's likely to get me expelled from same.


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Old 06-27-2012, 08:21 AM   #16
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Having fun, you mentioned on your short trip that everything felt fine except for some trouble backing up an incline. Do you experience any sway issues on the highway and if so have you considered a better hitch system?
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Old 06-27-2012, 03:35 PM   #17
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Having fun, you mentioned on your short trip that everything felt fine except for some trouble backing up an incline. Do you experience any sway issues on the highway and if so have you considered a better hitch system?
The only sway that I have felt was a semi at high speek passing, but not more than what I beleive to be normal. I have spoken to my mechanic who recommend that I get a better WDH system to bring the hitch up to the same level as the trailer tongue. He said this would reduce the weight on the back of the Yukon. He suggested not loading anything into the back of the yukon but rather over the axles of the TT and drive on. Not discounting him or anyone on this sight I contacted Tow pro and Leers just to reinforce his thoughts. Both stated with a better WDH system and Tow pro recommended a cam sway system. One other thing my mechanic said worst case scenario the brakes may wear faster with the smaller rear end of my Yukon, which turns out is the reason I can pull 7400 instead of 8600. So I have decided to put it on the market for sale, however in the interium I am going to purchase a better WDH system and use it until it sales. I will then purchase a lighter camper and use my new WDH on the repurchase. Tow Pro said I may be more concerned than half the people out there towing.
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Old 06-27-2012, 03:37 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by RustyJC View Post
I'm sure we're going to have individuals who think that I'm a charter member of the weight police fainting left and right, but let's consider that you're over your rated GCWR by 4.46%. Yes, you're overweight in that regard, but frankly most of us have run SLIGHTLY over a GCWR and/or GVWR (NOT over GAWRs) when we traded RVs until we made the next tow vehicle upgrade - myself included. As long as you recognize your limitations (e.g., understand that you're pushing the cooling capacity of your engine, transmission, rear axle, keep plenty of cushion for stopping distance and don't ride the brakes on the downhills, etc.) and aren't experiencing any of these symptoms at present, I wouldn't park the rig over 4.46%. Yes, I'd be on the lookout for an appropriate tow vehicle or RV for your next purchase, and I'd probably add another oil-to-air transmission cooler plumbed upstream of your existing cooler(s) - I'm not minimizing that, but your situation is actually relatively mild compared to any number that I've seen on here and in campgrounds.

The above is my humble opinion only and is not to be construed as the official position of the locally chartered chapter of the weight police. In fact, it's likely to get me expelled from same.


Rusty
Your way of thinking is very similar to my mechanic and both the Tow Hitch places I contacted. I am going to give the new hitch a try as I think that is bulk of my issue, makes the trailer lean forward too much currently. I will do most my travel what most of you refer to a flat land. If I decide to go to the mountains with it, my father has Dodge Dually..for now, thanks for the advice.
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Old 06-27-2012, 03:43 PM   #19
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Sounds like you're cuttin it close. Load up like a regular trip and stop in a weigh station or transfer station and check the full weight and cross reference to your manual for the gross combined weight.

Best advice with total ease of mind. Now you have to picture me out at the truck stop scales trying to figure out how to push the call button. Clearly set up for the trucks. Thankful for the leveling crank. Best $9.50 spent. So now that I know I am 580lbs over fully loaded I have to decide to reduce, sale, purchase a better WDH and drive on.
I at least know now.
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Old 06-27-2012, 03:55 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by havingfun13

Best advice with total ease of mind. Now you have to picture me out at the truck stop scales trying to figure out how to push the call button. Clearly set up for the trucks. Thankful for the leveling crank. Best $9.50 spent. So now that I know I am 580lbs over fully loaded I have to decide to reduce, sale, purchase a better WDH and drive on.
I at least know now.
Fyi, it doesn't have to be a weigh station. Check around for a public accessable transfer station (trash dump) and you can drive right up on the scale.
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Old 06-27-2012, 04:17 PM   #21
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I have spoken to my mechanic who recommend that I get a better WDH system to bring the hitch up to the same level as the trailer tongue. He said this would reduce the weight on the back of the Yukon. He suggested not loading anything into the back of the yukon but rather over the axles of the TT and drive on.
Problem is that really does nothing to alleviate the overloading as you're still over the GVWR and going to a heavier hitch will add to that. Shifting more weight to the front of the TV still doesn't change any of the towing limitations.
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Old 06-27-2012, 05:04 PM   #22
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Problem is that really does nothing to alleviate the overloading as you're still over the GVWR.....
Unless I missed something, he's 580 lbs over his GCWR, not GVWR.

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Old 06-28-2012, 12:50 AM   #23
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Take it from Dahlonaga to Blairesville up 129. If you make it, your good to go. If you don't go get you a duramax.
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:34 AM   #24
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Unless I missed something, he's 580 lbs over his GCWR, not GVWR.

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you are correct I am over the GCWR and not the GVWR.
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Old 06-28-2012, 10:38 AM   #25
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you are correct I am over the GCWR and not the GVWR.---I have a 2005 Yukon XL with the factory tow package and electric brake system.
Not enough info. 4x2 or 4x4. 1500 or 2500?

It would be a rare Yukon XL (= Chevy Suburban) with any combo of specs that would exceed the GCWR before you reached the GVWR limit towing a TT.

1500 4x2 has a GVWR of 7,000 pounds and 7,200 ounds for the 4x4. And the 2500 has 8,600 GVWR with either 4x2 or 4x4.

Roughly, the max payload is about 2,000 pounds for the 1500 and 3,000 for the 2500. Load the SUV with family and "stuff", shank and ball mount fror the WD hitch, and a full tank of gas, and the remaining available payload is not enough for a very heavy hitch weight. The CAT scale doesn't lie. Weigh the wet and loaded SUV on a CAT scale and subtract the weight from the GVWR of your SUV. The answer is the max hitch weight you can have without being overloaded.

When on the road, fill up with gas weigh the rig on a CAT scale. The weight on the front and rear axles is your GVW. Compare that to the GVWR of the SUV. I'll bet you'll be overloaded.
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:56 PM   #26
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Not enough info. 4x2 or 4x4. 1500 or 2500?

It would be a rare Yukon XL (= Chevy Suburban) with any combo of specs that would exceed the GCWR before you reached the GVWR limit towing a TT.

1500 4x2 has a GVWR of 7,000 pounds and 7,200 ounds for the 4x4. And the 2500 has 8,600 GVWR with either 4x2 or 4x4.

Roughly, the max payload is about 2,000 pounds for the 1500 and 3,000 for the 2500. Load the SUV with family and "stuff", shank and ball mount fror the WD hitch, and a full tank of gas, and the remaining available payload is not enough for a very heavy hitch weight. The CAT scale doesn't lie. Weigh the wet and loaded SUV on a CAT scale and subtract the weight from the GVWR of your SUV. The answer is the max hitch weight you can have without being overloaded.

When on the road, fill up with gas weigh the rig on a CAT scale. The weight on the front and rear axles is your GVW. Compare that to the GVWR of the SUV. I'll bet you'll be overloaded.
it is a 4x2 and I checked the numbers and the GVWR is over by 50lbs based on the CAT Scale. So does that mean I can lower my load by 50 lbs? Would it be safe to reduce weight by 50lbs and still keep this trailer?
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Old 06-28-2012, 09:14 PM   #27
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For 50#, I let it ride, but running that close, I'd keep an eye on what is loaded for a trip. Trailers have a way of putting on weight as you use them.

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Old 06-29-2012, 07:56 AM   #28
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it is a 4x2 and I checked the numbers and the GVWR is over by 50lbs based on the CAT Scale. So does that mean I can lower my load by 50 lbs? Would it be safe to reduce weight by 50lbs and still keep this trailer?
What TXiceman said.

"Safe" is a relative term. You'll be overloaded, but only by a smidgeon. So consider that when you decide to add people or stuff to the inside of the SUV. And do those things that reduce hitch weight, such as always dumping the holding tanks before you tow, stowing heavy items behind the trailer axles instead of in the front "basement" area, use a good weight-distributing hitch that distributes about 25% of the hitch weight back to the trailer axles, etc.

Exceeding the GCWR is not a big deal. It just means you'll not have enough power and torque to drag the trailer at a normal speed up a steep mountain pass without burning up something in the drivetrain. Or it will struggle in the hill country. It doesn't really affect safety, other than as a cause of road rage in other drivers sharing the road with you.

But exceeding the GVWR of the tow vehicle is a safety issue. You are stretching the weight capacity of the suspension and brakes of the tow vehicle. So try to avoid rough roads and chug holes, and leave lots of room between your rig and the other vehicles on the road with you. Plan ahead and avoid panic stops. Keep your tires properly inflated to handle the weight.

And good luck.
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