Diesel vs Gasoline

[Zoomschwortz]

Originally Posted by Itchytoe

But more importantly, what's the price tag on it? Those old square bodies look awesome when they're in good shape. Way too many of them are literally falling apart.



Yes! Diesel sitting in your fuel tank will slowly pick up moisture. A truck like yours, but diesel, can handle way more water than modern diesels. Modern diesels are so finicky that practically any water at all can cause damage. It's really crazy how little water it takes to mess them up.


A side effect of having moisture in diesel fuel is algae growth. Now that's a problem even for the old diesel engines. A big plug of algae sludge can easily break off when fuel starts flowing, but it isn't going to burn well at all. It can clog fuel lines, filters, and injectors leaving you stranded with an expensive repair bill. You have to get 100% of the algae out, or it will just regrow. With the fuel system sitting, it can actually grow inside the fuel lines or around pump impellers, etc. Literally nothing good comes from having that stuff in your fuel.


Gasoline doesn't grow algae. It has other problems though. Because it's a mixture of light hydrocarbons, some of those hydrocarbons actually come out of solution and vaporize. Benzene does it really fast. That's what gives gasoline its characteristic smell. The longer it sits, the less like gasoline it becomes. Eventually, all the lighter hydrocarbons in it vaporize and you're left with just the heavier ones. Then you won't be able to vaporize the mixture in the carb, or in the cylinders if it's fuel injected, so you can't burn it anymore. It also results in the gasoline kinda turning into varnish and clogging everything up. I'm sure you've had to clean a carb before. Imagine the same thing, but in all the fuel lines and pumps and strainers too. It's a pain.


Fluids in your vehicle need to move around. If they don't, it can cause problems. The oil in your crankcase doesn't just stay put. It constantly drains down into the pain until there is literally no oil left. Then things start to rust. A rusty crankcase is a sad crankcase. Diesel or gasoline, you should start it up every other week and take it for a drive into town for a bit to eat or something. Let the engine reach operating temp for 15 minutes. It will put less than 500 miles a year on the vehicle, but will go a long way in keeping everything in working order. Nothing is worse than abandoning a vehicle.

Thank you.
Since retiring it now has seen more miles a year than it used to see in 3-5 years.
In 2013 it only had 15,000 miles.

Price tag?
The truck isn’t trailer queen perfect, but I have not seen a nicer original paint truck from the 80’s that came close to this.
When I was driving at Ocean Shores in July, a man that had restored his 80’s F250 stopped me and then called his wife over to see my truck. He said he hadn’t seen one in this nice of condition since the mid 90’s.

My friend says he’ll give me $15,000 when his land sells. He has been wanting the truck for some time now.
Hard to find a 4x4 truck with 20,000 miles for 20k these days.

[Zoomschwortz]

Originally Posted by tuffr2

I don't remember the focus on trucks in 1988 like I do now. Manufactures are really putting a lot more $$$ into the new expensive trucks. The frames are now stiff and do not flex like in 1988. Ford and others are using high strength steel in the frame which is stronger and lighter.

A new truck will be way different and really refined vs a truck built in 1988. Oh, the new trucks are also on steroids. Probably the F-150 is now bigger than the 1988 F-250.

The problem with a new truck is they are nose bleed expensive. But for that money you do get a very good machine.

GM is now building a rock solid 1500 and 2500HD. The 1500 drives like a car and the 2500HD also drives nice.

The GM 1500 truck was redesigned in 2019 and the 2500HD redesigned for the 2020 model year.

Ram redesigned their 1500 truck for 2019 and now has the very best interior.

Ford redesigned their 150 truck in 2015 and their 250/350 trucks in 2017. They use an aluminum body starting those years.

I own a 2017 F-250 6.2 gas truck and really like it.

But back to your truck. In 1988 there are a few computers that control things. I had a 1987 Mercury V8 Car that the ignition control module went out and the car would lose power and actually shut off while driving. If you can debug the issue with your truck it looks like it is in great shape. I would try to fix it and get a few more years out of it.

Good luck

Thank you for the information.

Luckily for me the only problem I had is that the fan worked the way it is supposed to. Even though I still run a new original temp thermostat, the radiator never, ever got hot enough to fully engage the fans clutches until I started pulling the trailer up long passes. That stock fan with the clutch fully engaged moves a whole lot of air and makes a whole lot of noise.

Thanks again.
Ken

[Diesel-Lover]

Storing Diesel truck etc for long duration.


The battery is one issue, fuel quality is another.



If those two are managed via trickle and additives and or a water separator you should be good.



Fan and clutch kicking in and robbing power, yes some of them sound like an old B52 taking off just as you are heading into the steeper part of the hill or mountain.


Best remedy is to switch to battery power radiator fan with an appropriately set thermostat for the fan and also for the radiator, this way you can lead the heavy cooling need and carry through with the battery powered fans.


For an interesting experiment (old Mobile 1 commercial like), buy a bottle of dyno, blend and syn oil each in the weight grade you use. put in freezer. Next morning just shake em and you get the idea, if not try pouring the bottle out in a container and it will be amply clear Synth is the way to go for start up wear prevention in cold, cool and even normal weather temps. Similarly take the same oil samples and heat em you will see that the synthetic keeps the same viscosity to be able to keep lubricating even at high operating temps. In cleaner engines you can run the synth for more miles than dyno a factor of 2 but in diesel we have to worry about the detergent and neutralizers depleating therefore extending the life by perhaps just a fraction ie.. 1.5 or so if you are a heavy duration driver specially, long operating cycles you may be able to get almost to 2x life without hurting things.



Just my thoughts use your own judgment and logic.

[Snakebite476]

Zoom, i am really surprised that any dealer would consider offering you that much for your 88, unless their truck was marked up to some outrageous price. A new truck will out pull you 88. The new fuel systems are fantastic, and deliver a very useable power curve. Plus, the newer trucks are more comfortable and drive better. Things have come a long way since 88.

[Zoomschwortz]

Originally Posted by Diesel-Lover

Storing Diesel truck etc for long duration.


The battery is one issue, fuel quality is another.



If those two are managed via trickle and additives and or a water separator you should be good.



Fan and clutch kicking in and robbing power, yes some of them sound like an old B52 taking off just as you are heading into the steeper part of the hill or mountain.


Best remedy is to switch to battery power radiator fan with an appropriately set thermostat for the fan and also for the radiator, this way you can lead the heavy cooling need and carry through with the battery powered fans.


For an interesting experiment (old Mobile 1 commercial like), buy a bottle of dyno, blend and syn oil each in the weight grade you use. put in freezer. Next morning just shake em and you get the idea, if not try pouring the bottle out in a container and it will be amply clear Synth is the way to go for start up wear prevention in cold, cool and even normal weather temps. Similarly take the same oil samples and heat em you will see that the synthetic keeps the same viscosity to be able to keep lubricating even at high operating temps. In cleaner engines you can run the synth for more miles than dyno a factor of 2 but in diesel we have to worry about the detergent and neutralizers depleating therefore extending the life by perhaps just a fraction ie.. 1.5 or so if you are a heavy duration driver specially, long operating cycles you may be able to get almost to 2x life without hurting things.



Just my thoughts use your own judgment and logic.

Thank you for your information and insight.

I’m running Mobile 1 synthetic in the engine and Amsoil in the tranny and rear end.

I have done some looking for the high cfm electric fans but it looks like I would need to go with a universal model instead of a bolt on made to fit kit.

The original fan does the job of cooling excellently, but leaves a lot to be desired when the clutch engages and robs a whole lot of power from the engine.

[Zoomschwortz]

Originally Posted by Snakebite476

Zoom, i am really surprised that any dealer would consider offering you that much for your 88, unless their truck was marked up to some outrageous price. A new truck will out pull you 88. The new fuel systems are fantastic, and deliver a very useable power curve. Plus, the newer trucks are more comfortable and drive better. Things have come a long way since 88.

I couldn’t agree with you more.

I have found that the old adage of, if it’s to good to be true, it is, to hold true.
My brother was the one that talked to the Dealer and I’m guessing that it would be trade in value. This is why I haven’t wasted the gas and a few hours time to talk with them, but my friend is another story. He has been wanting the truck for a long time and is part owner in a piece of land, where the zoning just changed and is valued in the 7 million dollar range.

The 7.3 F250 sounds pretty appealing to me, but I’m concerned about the transmission dependability and it might be wise to hold off for a year to see how things go.

Question:
I read a statement on another thread stating that hp/tq ratings are now at the flywheel..
I know that hp/tq went from flywheel to rear wheel around 1971 and it still held true in the 80’s and 90’s.
If the new ratings are once again at the flywheel, then I’m no longer as impressed as I had been
Could this person’s statement be true?

Thanks again
Ken

[Captn John]

Some vehicles are worth more to many for different reasons. I bought a 1966 GTO and sold it to a HS friend in 1968. He sold it when he got married. A few years ago while in his mid-60s he bought another at $60k. Good condition and matching numbers but to me it was crazy until I did some research. 15k may not be a crazy number.

[Zoomschwortz]

Originally Posted by Captn John

Some vehicles are worth more to many for different reasons. I bought a 1966 GTO and sold it to a HS friend in 1968. He sold it when he got married. A few years ago while in his mid-60s he bought another at $60k. Good condition and matching numbers but to me it was crazy until I did some research. 15k may not be a crazy number.

I kick myself in the behind sometimes.
1990 I sold a beautiful 1971 Z28 with 45,000 miles for $5,000

In 1988 I had a chance to by an 69 RS/SS fresh rebuilt 396 4speed convertible w/new Hugger Orange paint, new top and new interior for $6500, but could not get my wife to agree. Such a beautiful car.

A car or truck is worth whatever someone is willing to pay.

Been looking on Craigslist for any year, any price F250 with 20,000 or less miles and I usually only find 3 or 4 and those are usually at a dealership.

It’s hard to find low miles trucks and what I see from early 90’s and older, 100,000 is considered “Low Miles”.

[jjackrash]

Originally Posted by Zoomschwortz

Been looking on Craigslist for any year, any price F250 with 20,000 or less miles and I usually only find 3 or 4 and those are usually at a dealership.

If you are looking at 20k mile diesel trucks you might as well look new and time the incentives right. It is a great time to find a new left over '19 with factory incentives. You won't get much discount off new for a 20k mile truck and its really nice to have a new truck and a new warranty and all that that entails. IMO.

[Cowpie1]

Originally Posted by Diesel-Lover

Storing Diesel truck etc for long duration.


The battery is one issue, fuel quality is another.



If those two are managed via trickle and additives and or a water separator you should be good.



Fan and clutch kicking in and robbing power, yes some of them sound like an old B52 taking off just as you are heading into the steeper part of the hill or mountain.


Best remedy is to switch to battery power radiator fan with an appropriately set thermostat for the fan and also for the radiator, this way you can lead the heavy cooling need and carry through with the battery powered fans.


For an interesting experiment (old Mobile 1 commercial like), buy a bottle of dyno, blend and syn oil each in the weight grade you use. put in freezer. Next morning just shake em and you get the idea, if not try pouring the bottle out in a container and it will be amply clear Synth is the way to go for start up wear prevention in cold, cool and even normal weather temps. Similarly take the same oil samples and heat em you will see that the synthetic keeps the same viscosity to be able to keep lubricating even at high operating temps. In cleaner engines you can run the synth for more miles than dyno a factor of 2 but in diesel we have to worry about the detergent and neutralizers depleating therefore extending the life by perhaps just a fraction ie.. 1.5 or so if you are a heavy duration driver specially, long operating cycles you may be able to get almost to 2x life without hurting things.



Just my thoughts use your own judgment and logic.

Wow. Causes me to wonder how I made it for 10 years in the interior of Alaska, year round, using a mineral motor oil and no synthetic. Oh yeah... when the temps were below 0F, we plugged in the block heater, we had oil pan warmers and battery blankets also plugged in when our vehicles were turned off. Our vehicles started like a warm summer day. We used the gray matter between our ears and setup our vehicles for the conditions we would be using them in.

And even mineral oils will do a fine job to 400F. Considering that most engines operator in the 180-220F range, it shouldn't be a problem. And those engines that do tend to operate at high temps and put more than a normal strain on motor oil also have oil coolers. Imagine that.

I do meet in the middle now though. I use a synthetic blend from Schaeffer that is 75% Group II+ petro oil and 25% Group IV PAO in my heavy diesel. It works year round in the upper tier of the U.S. including the lows of winter in MN, SD, ND, IA, WI, MI, etc. It is around 14,000 miles beyond 1 million miles now. The motor is all original except for a water pump, and it only uses about 1 quart of oil per 12,000 miles. And yes, it gets shut down frequently in those cold temps when not being used. I don't like spending more for fuel than I need to. I already have to buy 21,000 gallons of diesel fuel a year now, no need to pile on more.

Full syn is good oil, but the marketing folks have really inflated the need for it by the average consumer. And up to 20% of any motor oil is additive package. One of those things that many people don't take into consideration.

[Cowpie1]

Forgot to mention, that motor with over 1 million miles using a syn blend, I take the oil changes to 50% longer than the OEM recommended drain interval of 15,000 miles / 300 hours. I typically change oil at 22,500 miles or 450 hours. Sampling says it can go longer, but the interval i use is within my comfort zone.

Similar results from a Cummins N-14 I had before. 1.4 million miles when I sold it. All original except an accessory drive seal and one injector. All on a 100% mineral Kendall 15w40 HDEO.

Again, the marketing folks for the synthetics really have done their job well in convincing folks that mineral oils will grenade their engine. Too bad the motor in our 2006 Cadillac CTS that GM said had to use Mobil 1 synthetic 5w30 has done very well on Pennzoil conventional 10w30. Somehow the motor never got the memo that it should fall apart by using a mineral oil.

[kdauto]

Originally Posted by Cowpie1

Forgot to mention, that motor with over 1 million miles using a syn blend, I take the oil changes to 50% longer than the OEM recommended drain interval of 15,000 miles / 300 hours. I typically change oil at 22,500 miles or 450 hours. Sampling says it can go longer, but the interval i use is within my comfort zone.

Similar results from a Cummins N-14 I had before. 1.4 million miles when I sold it. All original except an accessory drive seal and one injector. All on a 100% mineral Kendall 15w40 HDEO.

Again, the marketing folks for the synthetics really have done their job well in convincing folks that mineral oils will grenade their engine. Too bad the motor in our 2006 Cadillac CTS that GM said had to use Mobil 1 synthetic 5w30 has done very well on Pennzoil conventional 10w30. Somehow the motor never got the memo that it should fall apart by using a mineral oil.

Being a professional tech I see engine damage from incorrect oils every month. None of these are from my shop, mostly using certain price-conscious (read:cheap) competitors that dump either the cheapest oil they can find or use the incorrect grades or specs as they get it cheaper in volume.

Many engines will set codes, mostly VVT codes when the wrong grade is used. I've seen it too often. VVT damage is expensive.

Your CTS would be extremely lucky to surivive using 10w30 if it's a 3.6. Timing chain stretch is well-known. Stretching already long intervals on them is not wise. GM even rewrote software to reduce the oil life intervals.

BTW synthetic "blend" is not a mix of mineral oil and PAO in any oil I've seen. "Synthetic" is a term that means nothing in North America. It is simply mineral oil (in most cases here in N.A.) that has been refined over and over until all the oil molecules are a uniform size. In Europe if labeled synthetic it must be a group IV base, while we here still use group II and III bases.

[kdauto]

Originally Posted by Diesel-Lover

Storing Diesel truck etc for long duration.


The battery is one issue, fuel quality is another.



If those two are managed via trickle and additives and or a water separator you should be good.



Fan and clutch kicking in and robbing power, yes some of them sound like an old B52 taking off just as you are heading into the steeper part of the hill or mountain.


Best remedy is to switch to battery power radiator fan with an appropriately set thermostat for the fan and also for the radiator, this way you can lead the heavy cooling need and carry through with the battery powered fans.


For an interesting experiment (old Mobile 1 commercial like), buy a bottle of dyno, blend and syn oil each in the weight grade you use. put in freezer. Next morning just shake em and you get the idea, if not try pouring the bottle out in a container and it will be amply clear Synth is the way to go for start up wear prevention in cold, cool and even normal weather temps. Similarly take the same oil samples and heat em you will see that the synthetic keeps the same viscosity to be able to keep lubricating even at high operating temps. In cleaner engines you can run the synth for more miles than dyno a factor of 2 but in diesel we have to worry about the detergent and neutralizers depleating therefore extending the life by perhaps just a fraction ie.. 1.5 or so if you are a heavy duration driver specially, long operating cycles you may be able to get almost to 2x life without hurting things.



Just my thoughts use your own judgment and logic.

I've seen electric rad fans on 1/2 ton trucks with low GVWR and towing capacity. I have not seen any on HD trucks. All the HD pickups I see use a belt driven fan and most use a hydraulic fan clutch. My truck uses that as it really needs to push a LOT of air at times under load. An electric fan most likely wouldn't cut it.

[Zoomschwortz]

Originally Posted by kdauto

I've seen electric rad fans on 1/2 ton trucks with low GVWR and towing capacity. I have not seen any on HD trucks. All the HD pickups I see use a belt driven fan and most use a hydraulic fan clutch. My truck uses that as it really needs to push a LOT of air at times under load. An electric fan most likely wouldn't cut it.

My truck has a large radiator and apparently never, ever got warm enough to engage the clutch on the fan until I bought the trailer. What a shock with the sudden very loud noise coming fro under the hood and drop in power when I needed it the most.

Hauling a camper never got it warm enough.

The Ford temperature gauge does not have numbers, it just says NORMAL and apparently when the needle gets to the right side of the O it is warm enough to engage the fan until the needle gets back to the left side of the O.

It really moves a lot of air at the cost of a bunch of hp.