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Old 06-20-2016, 11:19 AM   #43
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I am on heavy hydraulic setting. The 15 IBC is different than the 13 and 14's.
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Old 06-20-2016, 06:52 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Cummins12V98 View Post
I am on heavy hydraulic setting. The 15 IBC is different than the 13 and 14's.
My 14 ram 2500 had a light and heavy for electric and for hydraulic. I wasn't aware they had changed since 14.

Chad
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Old 07-01-2016, 04:51 PM   #45
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Have a '12 3500. The OEM trailer brake has worked perfect until this last trip. I have it set on heavy electric @ 5. On a 1000 mile trip. about 20 miles from end of 3 day trip I get the message of trailer brakes disconnected, check wiring. I check plug, is OK. Warning goes off, drive about about 5 miles, comes on again for about 1/2 mile, goes off. Comes on and off a few more times and stays off till I am about 5 blocks from RV park. Comes on for maybe 2 blocks and goes off.

This sounds like the same issue mentioned earlier. Truck has about 20K miles so not that much brake controller use.

Can anyone shed some light or a number on a flash for a '12 brake controller.

Thanks Jim
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Old 07-01-2016, 07:35 PM   #46
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I have a 2015. When setting up the brake controller you're supposed to go up on the gain and apply the brakes manually until you can lock up the trailer brakes going about 25mph and then back off from that. With the new trailer in my sig I can't lock up the brakes on it.
Heavy electric all the way to 10 and they will not lock up. It does brake pretty hard though. So I ended up picking a setting where it feels as if both the truck and trailer are braking in unison and neither one is doing more work than the other. At least by feel. It seems to work well.

I still have my prodigy P3 I used on a previous truck and I miss the boost feature it had that the integrated controller does not.
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Old 07-06-2016, 11:51 AM   #47
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Archer try a panic stop from 50 and tell me how it does.
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Old 07-07-2016, 11:32 AM   #48
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Are the brake controllers different on a '14? Mine seems to work well, although I can't lock up the brakes on my 5er... the previous TT would lock them up.
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Old 07-07-2016, 01:54 PM   #49
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I can easily lock up my brakes, but I have disk brakes. IBC set on 5.0 now with heavy hydraulic over electric and might still have to back it off a little.
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Old 07-07-2016, 04:00 PM   #50
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Heavy electric all the way to 10 and they will not lock up. It does brake pretty hard though. So I ended up picking a setting where it feels as if both the truck and trailer are braking in unison and neither one is doing more work than the other. At least by feel. It seems to work well.
2015 Dodge. 2015 5th wheel that's at about 13k empty and 16k GVWR. 2-axle. Brakes work, but won't come close to locking... I hear the triple axles do a little better for braking, as do the electric-hydraulic conversion RVs.
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Old 07-07-2016, 04:26 PM   #51
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I've towed 3 trailers with my 12 Ram 2500 CTD. None of them would lock with the OEM controller. It's obvious that FCA hasn't changed the dynamics of their OEM TBC since the 13, 14, 15, and 16s all have problems. Hit or miss is what I'm seeing.
I know dor a fact that its the Ram TBC. I've towed two of the trailers with other controllers. One being a Ford and the other being a Tekonsha. Both would lock the tires at 25 mph.
I just towed a brand new smaller trailer two days ago. Had the gain set at 7 on 'Light' and couldn't lock the brakes. Never had any stopping issues though.
Thing is you can set them to 5-10 on the gain and on light or heavy, drive 55 mph and slam the brakes hard and the brakes will lock. BTDT. I've said it before that Ram has some kind of quirky slow speed braking issue. With my Tekonsha I have to dial it back a little in town or even a semi hard stop will lock the brakes.
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Old 07-07-2016, 06:38 PM   #52
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So what did your dodge dealer or manufacturer tell you?
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Old 07-08-2016, 09:05 AM   #53
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I'll ask again, does anyone have the TSB number about the re-flash for a '12 brake controller.

My controller works like others mentioned, at slow speeds it seems like the truck is stopping my 15K 5th wheel, but at higher speeds and in town with a hard brake application the trailer brakes really seem to clamp down.

My problem is not with stopping, it the intermittent warning of trailer disconnected, check wiring, that is random at best.

I am not one to just start throwing money at a problem, but I will not own a vehicle that is not safe to drive.

I will ask that everyone with a concern with the OEM Trailer Brake Controller go to the web site: https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/ and let them know about the unsafe condition this is creating.

Thanks Jim
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Old 07-19-2016, 08:39 PM   #54
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Brand new here. Just throwing in my experience. Just bought a 2016 Ram 3500 Dually. It was perfectly setup with Fifth wheel prep package etc. Hauls really sweet but ....

First time I go to leave, no trailer brakes. I move the connector from the bed connector to the bumper connector and I get some brakes at max gain. The dealer takes my truck for day with no help. 2 weeks later I bring my truck back with the trailer for three days. The verdict is everything is fine. I only have 5 volts going to the trailer brakes with gain set set to 10. Other problems with the trailer connector too but not relevant. Really? the factory says a max output of 5 volts to the trailer brakes is performing as designed? The brakes should receive nearer to 12 VDC shouldn't they if set to high gain like that - shouldn't they?

Trailer: KZ 315TH toy hauler
Truck: 2016 Ram 3500 Laramie
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Old 07-19-2016, 09:10 PM   #55
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You have to have some speed before you get any noticeable braking. That is why some have mentioned a test speed of 25mph. That being said, I once had a problem with a faulty bed connector. Turns out the bed connector splits in half, front to back. Unscrewed it and redid it. Works good now.
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Old 07-20-2016, 08:42 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by BluesmanG View Post
Brand new here. Just throwing in my experience. Just bought a 2016 Ram 3500 Dually. It was perfectly setup with Fifth wheel prep package etc. Hauls really sweet but ....

First time I go to leave, no trailer brakes. I move the connector from the bed connector to the bumper connector and I get some brakes at max gain. The dealer takes my truck for day with no help. 2 weeks later I bring my truck back with the trailer for three days. The verdict is everything is fine. I only have 5 volts going to the trailer brakes with gain set set to 10. Other problems with the trailer connector too but not relevant. Really? the factory says a max output of 5 volts to the trailer brakes is performing as designed? The brakes should receive nearer to 12 VDC shouldn't they if set to high gain like that - shouldn't they?

Trailer: KZ 315TH toy hauler
Truck: 2016 Ram 3500 Laramie
Quick answer is NO. The OEM controller looks at deceleration rate, pedal position and vehicle speed. If you are checking with the truck stopped, you will only get about 5vdc at the plug. If you are at speed, hit the brakes you will get a higher voltage and increased amps. The electric brakes work off current, not voltage. Most magnets will draw 3 amps each @ 12vdc. The OEM controller does work like the older, under the dash, mounted controllers.

My 14.5K trailer has 2x7K brakes. I have my controller set on heavy elec @ 5. works great when it works. My issue is it at times shows trailer is disconnected.

In a previous post I listed the web site of the NHSA, please write and complain.

Jim
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