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Old 05-30-2011, 02:35 PM   #15
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If you have to purchase an add on brake controller, don’t bother with any of the proportional/inertia types of controllers. The ONLY TRULY proportional controller (it senses hydraulic brake pressure) is a Brakke Master. Only available by mail order.
They are expensive but if you tow with one you will never go back to the p/i type of controller.
Definitely stay away from the “time constant” type of controller!
Let us know what happens.
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Old 05-30-2011, 06:54 PM   #16
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Looks like you've got all the info you need or can handle on the trailer brake issue. Just don't forget the trailer brakes require manual adjustment at the trailer wheels, this may not have been done by the previous owner, and is required to get proper brake action. I do mine anually or every 5000 miles if I'm on the road a lot. Track your miles of use on the trailer and check wheel brgs and tires as well.
On the beer issue; fire up the fridge 48hrs before you need it and buy cold beer, it's easier to keep it cool than cool it from warm. Google your camp site, then cross reference liquor stores, on line.
Have fun out there.
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Old 05-31-2011, 11:15 AM   #17
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OOPs!

I got the name of my brake controller wrong! It is MAX BRAKE, check out their site- maxbrake.com, I bought mine over the net from- plugitright.com

Disclaimer- I have NO financial interest or other interest in #1 MAX BRAKE or #2 Plugit right other than the Max Brake controller is the best on the market and Plugitright gave me outstanding service.

May you have fair winds and following seas!
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Old 06-04-2011, 02:41 AM   #18
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Just wondering, how big is your (heavy) is your trailer? We run a 26 footer behind our 2003 Burb. Just got back from a 800 mile round trip with our set up and averaged between 10.5 and 12 miles per gallon. Was really pleased. Can check out pictures of our trip at http://web.mac.com/dsich/Sich_Home_P...rado_2011.html
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Old 06-08-2011, 08:32 PM   #19
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Could the brake controller be installed on the trailer, (instead of in the truck?) That seems like a great location for it.
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Old 06-10-2011, 04:37 PM   #20
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Pogo, I suppose that it would be tecnicaly possible to build an electric trailer brake system on board a trailer. BUT!!! without the ability to adjust the gain, or manually apply the brakes from the drivers seat, I wouldn't tow it. I get a chills pulling a surge brake equiped trailer at speed, and avoid highway travel with a boat trailer for that reason.
Dash mounted controls have been the normal system since electric trailer brakes were introduced, and I don't see anyone trying to change that.
Maintained and adjusted properly the current controller/electric system would be hard to improve on. Even radio controlled towed vehicle brakes require the dash mount to work.
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Old 06-11-2011, 07:24 AM   #21
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Thanks, Skip. I was just thinking that once the adjustment was set, then the controller could be powered by a wire from the towing vehicle. And, then any vehicle could tow the towed vehicle.
I guess I didn't come up with a revolution in towing.
Now, why is it scary to tow a boat with surge brakes, unless you are going down a mountain? I don't know a lot about towing.
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Old 06-12-2011, 11:51 AM   #22
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Pogo. In my towing experience, if the trailer control is compromized; excesive sway, draging the back of the tow vehicle around; the first thing you want to do is apply the trailer brakes , before the tow vehicle brakes. With electric brakes this is possible with your dash control; manual application, before touching the vehicle brakes. With surge brakes you have to apply the vehicle brakes to activate the trailer brakes. When everything; tow vehicle and trailer; is going straight down the road the surge brakes apply fine. If the tow vehicle and trailer aren't straight, surge brake aplication can be limited or non existant, depending on the angle, between the hitch and trailer.
Surge brakes are used on boat trailers , because they are tollerant to being under water; launch. If the boat/trailer combination outweigh the tow vehicle, and they start swaying around, things get scary in a hurry.
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Old 06-12-2011, 10:53 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426 View Post
Pogo. In my towing experience, if the trailer control is compromized; excesive sway, draging the back of the tow vehicle around; the first thing you want to do is apply the trailer brakes , before the tow vehicle brakes. With electric brakes this is possible with your dash control; manual application, before touching the vehicle brakes. With surge brakes you have to apply the vehicle brakes to activate the trailer brakes. When everything; tow vehicle and trailer; is going straight down the road the surge brakes apply fine. If the tow vehicle and trailer aren't straight, surge brake aplication can be limited or non existant, depending on the angle, between the hitch and trailer.
Surge brakes are used on boat trailers , because they are tollerant to being under water; launch. If the boat/trailer combination outweigh the tow vehicle, and they start swaying around, things get scary in a hurry.
Well said. I have experience towing with electric trailer brakes and surge brakes. Pretty much spot on here. The one thing I would add is that if you are experiencing excessive sway or trailer push is do not panic, don't oversteer or overbrake, in fact just get out of the throttle, you will find things get less scary as speed decreases.
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Old 06-14-2011, 01:09 AM   #24
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Could the brake controller be installed on the trailer, (instead of in the truck?) That seems like a great location for it.
Pogo, the Tekonsha RF brake controller # 90250 is mounted on the trailer and is adjusted with an in-the-cab controller that just needs a DC source. Gain and boost are controlled and an LED readout tells you what's going on.
I have one and it works fine - one of my tow vehicles lacks the blue brake wire and I didn't want to spend the time making a clean installation and possibly compromising the warranty. (Long story.)
My only question is how it will work on long downhill runs using engine braking - will it over-apply the brakes? At least I can watch the voltage being applied on the readout and adjust the gain if I think I am overheating the trailer brakes.
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