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Old 07-01-2015, 07:22 PM   #15
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Yes-true, but the ball is round, at least untill it gets down to the base/shank. I would think the angel necessary to make the balls shank interfere would be much greater than you would encounter hooking up.

Not arguing, just trying to think this out.
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Old 07-01-2015, 07:48 PM   #16
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Oh I agree. I just went outside and stared at it for awhile and it makes sense. Since the trailers coupler is not only round but curves back in near the bottom it's easier for the base of the ball to be affected by that. Pushing the ball to towards the trailer and down. That's where the latch can't get under it.

So it seems the higher the hitch head the more angle it can have and still couple.

And the lower the hitch head the less angle it can have to couple.

However if I raised the hitch head anymore the trailer would be sitting nose up.
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Old 07-01-2015, 11:15 PM   #17
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Raise the hitch head 1 notch and remove a washer. Or Just remove a washer so the bars will be higher when tight.
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Old 07-01-2015, 11:26 PM   #18
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If I raise the hitch head the trailer will be nose up. If I just remove a washer I may not have enough weight distribution. I'll have to check.
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Old 07-03-2015, 06:49 PM   #19
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Man i would like to see this and help you require this out !!!!
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Old 07-04-2015, 10:37 AM   #20
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The washers are for weight distribution only.
My daughter has a KZ trailer and it has the cheapest coupler I've ever seen. Will only latch if you move the TV ahead so it will settle down.
It sounds like you have read the manual. Have you measured the distance from the ground to the front wheel well, both unloaded and with trailer attached? Do yo have a V nose trailer or one with the coupler mounted on the bottom? If you do then you need to reposition the trailer frame L brackets as per the directions. My suggestion is to reread the instructions and follow them to the letter. You shouldn't be having this problem. Also if you can't resolve this then call the factory, they are great to deal with.
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Old 07-05-2015, 08:46 PM   #21
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The washers are for weight distribution only.
My daughter has a KZ trailer and it has the cheapest coupler I've ever seen. Will only latch if you move the TV ahead so it will settle down.
It sounds like you have read the manual. Have you measured the distance from the ground to the front wheel well, both unloaded and with trailer attached? Do yo have a V nose trailer or one with the coupler mounted on the bottom? If you do then you need to reposition the trailer frame L brackets as per the directions. My suggestion is to reread the instructions and follow them to the letter. You shouldn't be having this problem. Also if you can't resolve this then call the factory, they are great to deal with.
I have read the manual many many many times. And taken a million measurements.
And I have contacted Equal-i-zer directly and provided the measurements requested. Most I can run is 5 washers. I'd like to move the L bar brackets down one notch and go with 7 washers, I think that would be the perfect setup. However I can't make it work. And any change to hitch head height would only put the trailer too much nose down or nose up.
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Old 07-05-2015, 09:35 PM   #22
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I have a part time job delivering out of state sales on pop-ups,TTs and 5th wheels.
I see this all the time. on almost awalys new units.
The used ones just fall in place a little better. It almost like the coat of paint on the new one is just enough to make the hitch harder to latch.
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Old 07-07-2015, 10:26 PM   #23
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Could it be the style of coupler that's the issue? Thumb vs trigger?
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Old 07-10-2015, 10:24 PM   #24
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I have read the manual many many many times. And taken a million measurements.
And I have contacted Equal-i-zer directly and provided the measurements requested. Most I can run is 5 washers. I'd like to move the L bar brackets down one notch and go with 7 washers, I think that would be the perfect setup. However I can't make it work. And any change to hitch head height would only put the trailer too much nose down or nose up.
If you go with 7 washers it will tilt your hitch ball back towards your trailer even more and will increase you difficulty in getting the bars on the brackets.
Have you leveled your trailer when uncoupled and measured from the ground to the top of the coupler? Do this, then set your hitch ball to this height by fitting to the shank and flip the shank over if needed. They have different drop shanks and you may need one. This should be relatively easy to resolve. I wish I was there to give you a hand.
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Old 07-10-2015, 10:59 PM   #25
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Yep, did that many times. Even tried other heights just to see if it got any better.

Just saying if I could get 7 washers in it would probably be the perfect setup. I know I can't. Getting the bars on the brackets isn't the problem. Latching the coupler is.

At this point I'm really thinking it's the thumb style latch. It goes in diagonally against the ball inside the coupler and if there isn't enough clearance it won't engage. But it seems a trigger style latch just pulls straight up against the ball so clearance inside the coupler would be irrelevant.
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Old 07-14-2015, 06:14 PM   #26
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"At this point I'm really thinking it's the thumb style latch."

I think this is the actual problem--have had somewhat the same problem with flatbeds over the years. Might have to change the coupler to a different design.

Joe
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Old 07-15-2015, 06:58 PM   #27
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No, the bars are fine. Its getting the coupler to lock on the ball thats the problem.
I've never been able to get the coupler lock to fall down under the ball after I've lowered the trailer down onto it. My solution has been to raise the jack only about an inch off the ground (just in case) and then put the truck in gear and let it pull the ball forward in the coupler. The lock always falls right in to place when I do that.
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Old 07-15-2015, 07:02 PM   #28
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I do that as well. Still, 5 washers is my limit.
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