Ok, Fare enough... The L bracket bar slide area is not specifically stated as a manufacture recommended lube point. Thank you for correcting my categorical lube statement. They state keeping it clean and a level bar contact position (could this be to achieve maximum resistance?).
However… my instructions didn't specifically state “don’t” lube the L bracket slide points, so if they were to get some, it would of course simply reduce to the sway limiting characteristics that the sliding bar might maximally give. It wouldn't change the load leveling capabilities. FWIW... The bar and L bracket can easily be wiped cleaned to remove any lube that might happen there
So unlike contaminating a brake pad, it is reversible. Makes it easy to experiment first hand to find out what does or doesn’t work.
Right or wrong … my bar slide area gets some silicon and it works great quietly!
Maybe I simply didn’t need maximum sway control on my trailers idk?
This hookup routine was from a former hitch installer that personally used the same hitch regularly. He was probably the biggest influence on my getting the first one. Especially since his shop only sold other brands, I considered his advise because there wasn’t a buck to be made. Just an honest best effort recommendation from good ol experience.
1) Wipe down the pivot areas
2) Shot of silicone and wipe down the L bracket area (clean) leaving just a slight wet look
3) Wipe down the bars with only the lube from the paper towel
4) Shoot silicone on the pivot points and exercise pivots (mine were very tight for a long time)
5) Button things up and go!
I liked using silicone spray because it stayed much cleaner than anything else I tried. I figured less dirt buildup and attraction had to be good.
Consider weight, adjustability/tune-ability, price, tow vehicle attachment and trailer connect effort. Note manufactures statements about when to remove bars or sway control devices. Crests, dips and tight turns can put considerable strain on the trailer A-frame and bar mount points.
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