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Old 06-02-2015, 02:07 PM   #15
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The friction surfaces of the head and sockets should be kept clean and WELL LUBRICATED with a good quality lubricant.

I read that as the head and bar sockets, but thats just me !!!!!

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Old 06-03-2015, 12:53 AM   #16
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Ok, Fare enough... The L bracket bar slide area is not specifically stated as a manufacture recommended lube point. Thank you for correcting my categorical lube statement. They state keeping it clean and a level bar contact position (could this be to achieve maximum resistance?).

However… my instructions didn't specifically state “don’t” lube the L bracket slide points, so if they were to get some, it would of course simply reduce to the sway limiting characteristics that the sliding bar might maximally give. It wouldn't change the load leveling capabilities. FWIW... The bar and L bracket can easily be wiped cleaned to remove any lube that might happen there So unlike contaminating a brake pad, it is reversible. Makes it easy to experiment first hand to find out what does or doesn’t work.

Right or wrong … my bar slide area gets some silicon and it works great quietly! Maybe I simply didn’t need maximum sway control on my trailers idk?

This hookup routine was from a former hitch installer that personally used the same hitch regularly. He was probably the biggest influence on my getting the first one. Especially since his shop only sold other brands, I considered his advise because there wasn’t a buck to be made. Just an honest best effort recommendation from good ol experience.
1) Wipe down the pivot areas
2) Shot of silicone and wipe down the L bracket area (clean) leaving just a slight wet look
3) Wipe down the bars with only the lube from the paper towel
4) Shoot silicone on the pivot points and exercise pivots (mine were very tight for a long time)
5) Button things up and go!

I liked using silicone spray because it stayed much cleaner than anything else I tried. I figured less dirt buildup and attraction had to be good.

Consider weight, adjustability/tune-ability, price, tow vehicle attachment and trailer connect effort. Note manufactures statements about when to remove bars or sway control devices. Crests, dips and tight turns can put considerable strain on the trailer A-frame and bar mount points.

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Old 06-03-2015, 04:05 AM   #17
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Like your "outside the box " thinking as far as experimenting, nothing that cannot be reversed ! i guess it comes down to how much the noise bothers you, vs. amount of sway control ?
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Old 06-14-2015, 03:33 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by twosocks View Post
Quote from Equal-I-zer sway control hitch owners manual "The friction surfaces of the head and sockets should be kept clean and WELL LUBRICATED with a good quality lubricant. They should be lubricated before each trip"
That is exactly correct. The head where the sockets are mounted should be lubricated as needed. The sockets are held in place by large bolts and the torque should be up to spec also. The head and sockets have nothing to do with the friction surfaces on the L brackets mountd on the trailer frame. They sell jackets for the brackets if you have too much noise. Usually with break in the noise goes away. Don't lube the L brackets.
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Old 06-14-2015, 04:52 PM   #19
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We have used the Equalizer since 2008 towing our 6800 lb TT no problems whatsoever squeaks now and then but not bad.
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Old 06-14-2015, 05:44 PM   #20
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Witch one handles washboard freeways and tight turns the best? I like the way the Sway Pro chains tighten up over the leverage bars on the Equalizer. I have an old Draw Tite round bar with friction sway and it still works OK but looking at the Sway Pro as an upgrade. How does the fixed head angle work out? Does anybody really understand how it actually stops sway?

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