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Old 04-07-2016, 11:18 PM   #1
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Extended tongue fabrication

I own a 2014 haulmark car hauler that I want to use with my MH. It has the V nose front. From what I'm reading its recommended to have the extended tounge. I do not. I have about 24" from the ball to the tip of the V nose and 4 ft. To the corner of the V. My thoughts are to extend the tounge about 18". I talked to the trailer co. And they can do it for around 2k bucks. Is this my only option and does that sound high?
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Old 04-08-2016, 06:11 AM   #2
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You might check out some mobile welding fabricators and get another estimate. Some of those fellows work alittle cheaper and come up with good ideas.


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Old 04-08-2016, 06:23 AM   #3
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The thing about trailers is this. Any welding shop can do it but, and this is a big BUT. Will their insurance cover it if any thing happens due to their work? We have a "pup" trailer we pull with a straight truck hauling grain. We are over length according to state law. Big deal just shorten the tongue. Not that easy. Nobody will touch it because of insurance purposes.
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Old 04-08-2016, 07:17 AM   #4
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I would question the need for an extended tongue with a V nose trailer. I pull a V nose with my Ford Excursion and am able to get it into some pretty tight spots. Even with an extended tongue, you can still jacknife it. What is their reasoning?
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Old 04-08-2016, 07:20 AM   #5
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The reasoning is towing it with a 45' motor home ads alot more tail swing, im worried about crunching the rear panels of my motor home when driving, not so much backing it up as i have a rear camera, i just dont want to take a turn while driving and pinch it.
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Old 04-08-2016, 09:03 AM   #6
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One problem with a V-nose cargo trailer is there isn't enough room on the tongue to install a good weight-distributing (WD) sway-control hitch, such as a Reese Strait-Line or Blue Ox SwayPro or Equal-I-Zer. You can add sway bars, but they aren't nearly as good as a good WD hitch with built-in sway control, and they don't distribute the tongue weight.

If your only concern is to back the front of the trailer further from the motorhome, then a receiver hitch extender can do it for you. The problem with the extenders is that they reduce the hitch weight capacity by about 35%. Here's a Drawtite 14" extension that is limited to gross trailer weight of 3,500 pounds.
https://www.realtruck.com/draw-tite-...ter/80305.html

That's probably not enough weight capacity for your cargo trailer. My 7x14 cargo trailer has GVWR of 7,000 pounds, and is often loaded to around 6,000 pounds with tongue weight of about 800 pounds.

I have a Reese 13" extender that says reduce hitch weight to 65% of hitch weight capacity, plus it has a tongue weight limit of 400 pounds when used without a WD hitch, or 650 pounds when used with a WD hitch. I used it on a utility box trailer that grossed less than 3,500 pounds and had hitch weight of less than 400 pounds.

So to use that one with a V-nose trailer I'd need to find a WD hitch that would bolt onto the short tongue of the v-nose trailer, plus I'd need to manage weight in the trailer to be sure I never exceeded 650 pounds tongue weight. Exceeding the weight limits of your hitch system indicates you were standing behind the door when they passed out the brains. No problem for me because my Car-Mate flat-nose cargo trailer has plenty of room on the tongue to install my Reese Strait-Line WD hitch.
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Old 04-08-2016, 11:37 AM   #7
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The worry is not that the trailer will turn or back while behind the motor home. The top of the nose of the trailer cold hit the back of the motor home when the rear axle of the motorhome goes into a dip, or say an entrance off a road into a parking pot or driveway. The rear of the motorhome drops, and the top of the nose of the trailer is pushed towards the motor home body.

A longer hitch means that the hitch might be grounded in a dip type situation.

Could you cut off part of it's nose maybe?
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Old 04-09-2016, 04:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathan55 View Post
I own a 2014 haulmark car hauler that I want to use with my MH. It has the V nose front. From what I'm reading its recommended to have the extended tounge. I do not. I have about 24" from the ball to the tip of the V nose and 4 ft. To the corner of the V. My thoughts are to extend the tounge about 18". I talked to the trailer co. And they can do it for around 2k bucks. Is this my only option and does that sound high?

I have a 2014 16ft v nose enclosed I use it for work I extended the tongue myself for a leaf loader I used a piece of 2x6 Chanel which goes back right behind the side door then tied into two cross members installed 14k Pintle and electric jack cost are 200 not excluding jack I had.. A buddy of mine had his done he spend 1600 Click image for larger version

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