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Old 06-21-2013, 04:53 PM   #1
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Finally got to the scales!

Well I Finally got to the scales. I'm just under but I think I'm ok. I got 2 weights. One truck only loaded for camping. One truck and trailer loaded for the road.My truck is a 2008 silverado 1/2 ton. 5.3, 373 rear end.Truck only,with hitch loaded up was steer axle 3,300 allowed 3,600. Drive axle 2,760 allowed 3,950. total weight 6,000, allowed 6,800. Truck and trailer loaded was steer axle 3,140 allowed 3,600. Drive axle was 3,360 allowed 3,940. total 6,440 allowed 6,800. Trailer weighed 5,620 allowed 7,600. Total weight was 12,060 allowed 13,000.Weighed tongue weight at home with scale was about 610lbs. What do ya think?
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Old 06-21-2013, 06:56 PM   #2
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By the numbers your great, under on the axles, Under ,GCVW, Under GCVW. Can't ask for more.
Keep a close eye on your temps , engine and trans , on your trips , and get out and enjoy your RV.
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Old 06-21-2013, 10:13 PM   #3
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I'm just curious as I'm hoping to get to the scales myself. It seems by the lighter front axle weight with the TT you are towing without a weight distributing hitch, is this right?

Bill
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Old 06-22-2013, 10:02 AM   #4
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No Bill I have a 1,200 12,000 Equalizer hitch.I don't know why the steer axle went from 3300 to 3140. Looks like the drive axle got all the tounge weight. I don't have any problem with trailer sway.The truck and trailer look good as far as being level. Maybe the hitch is to big but I already spent the money for the hitch and don't wanna spend more for a lower hitch.Weight's seem to be ok so I hope I'm alright. Thanks for your imput. Rich
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Old 06-22-2013, 01:12 PM   #5
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Your numbers are very close to what mine were when I used a 2008 Silverado to tow a Rockwood 2604. The rig towed very good. No problems in the mountains and no overheating problems. I used a 10,000 Equalizer hitch and had no sway issues. Looks good. Have fun.
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moe-rich View Post
Weighed tongue weight at home with scale was about 610lbs. What do ya think?
I think you have the wrong hitch.

Equal-i-zer Weight Distribution w/ 4-Point Sway Control - 12,000 lbs GTW, 1,200 lbs TW

Code: EQ90-00-1201

Product Specs:

TW (hitch weight) between 900 and 1,200 pounds
900 lbs
1000 lbs
1100 lbs
1200 lbs

With only 600 pounds of TW, your hitch is much too strong for your trailer.

I don't know about Equal-I-Zer, but if it were a Reese Strait-Line Dual Cam, the only difference between hitches rated 800 and 1,200 pounds tongue weight is the spring bars. You can replace just the spring bars with those rated 800 pounds tongue weight and the rest of the hitch can be used with no change.

If that's true for an Equal-I-Zer, then you can get replacement spring bars rated for 600 pounds hitch weight for $140 from ETrailer.com
Replacement Spring Bars for Equal-i-zer Weight Distribution Systems - Qty 2 - 600 lbs TW Equal-i-zer Accessories and Parts EQ90-01-0699

With your trailer, I suspect your TW will be more than 600 pounds in the future. But Equal-I-Zer doesn't make 800 pound bars, so the next step is 1,000. The 1,000 pound bars are rated for tongue weights between 700 and 1000 pounds.

Replacement Spring Bars for Equal-i-zer Weight Distribution Systems - Qty 2 - 1,000 lbs TW Equal-i-zer Accessories and Parts EQ90-01-1099

I would talk to the Equal-I-Zer folks and see if replacing just the spring bars will fix your problem.
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:15 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moe-rich View Post
Well I Finally got to the scales. I'm just under but I think I'm ok. I got 2 weights. One truck only loaded for camping. One truck and trailer loaded for the road.My truck is a 2008 silverado 1/2 ton. 5.3, 373 rear end.Truck only,with hitch loaded up was steer axle 3,300 allowed 3,600. Drive axle 2,760 allowed 3,950. total weight 6,000, allowed 6,800. Truck and trailer loaded was steer axle 3,140 allowed 3,600. Drive axle was 3,360 allowed 3,940. total 6,440 allowed 6,800. Trailer weighed 5,620 allowed 7,600. Total weight was 12,060 allowed 13,000.Weighed tongue weight at home with scale was about 610lbs. What do ya think?
Did your truck weight include you and all passengers plus anything else you are going to carry in it? Your weight is only 800#'s under max, That's OK if everything was in the truck as you would leave for a trip, but if you add a passenger/dog etc and put stuff in the bed you'll probably be overweight.
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Old 06-23-2013, 01:26 PM   #8
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Was wondering if there was any safety isuses if I just keep using what I have. All the weights are under and the truck rides fine. No sway or bounce or anything.No sagging or anything. What do ya think?
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Old 06-23-2013, 01:28 PM   #9
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Truck was loaded up. Thanks for asking Mr.D
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:32 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by moe-rich View Post
Was wondering if there was any safety isuses if I just keep using what I have. All the weights are under and the truck rides fine. No sway or bounce or anything.No sagging or anything. What do ya think?
Time on the road will tell ; but I don't think your in for any surprises.
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Old 06-27-2013, 11:20 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moe-rich View Post
Well I Finally got to the scales. I'm just under but I think I'm ok. I got 2 weights. One truck only loaded for camping. One truck and trailer loaded for the road.My truck is a 2008 silverado 1/2 ton. 5.3, 373 rear end.Truck only,with hitch loaded up was steer axle 3,300 allowed 3,600. Drive axle 2,760 allowed 3,950. total weight 6,000, allowed 6,800. Truck and trailer loaded was steer axle 3,140 allowed 3,600. Drive axle was 3,360 allowed 3,940. total 6,440 allowed 6,800. Trailer weighed 5,620 allowed 7,600. Total weight was 12,060 allowed 13,000.Weighed tongue weight at home with scale was about 610lbs. What do ya think?
TW 11%

Truck Solo

SA 3300

DA 2760

TT n/a


Hitched

SA 3140

DA 3360

TT ?

The Steer Axle reading is still short of FALR (Front Axle Load Restoration) which is the forumulaic minimum. 90%+ is good, but not optimum . . dead-on, or 100% is not hard to achieve. This also allows for best TV tire pressures inside of of GM guidelines (door sticker) and closest to load vs. pressure ideal.

Three passes acros the scale on the same trip would be best:

1] Truck solo
2] Truck & TT hitched, no WD applied
3] Same; but with WD applied

It is easier to understand the relations between all with this approach as numbers can be double-checked against each other. FA will be the same in #1 and #3 when correct.

The more weight back on the TT axles the better will be combined rig braking. And resistance to sway higher as a result of this leverage (with this type of integrated anti-sway).

Do the above, and with optimal numbers then consult with hitch manufacturer about best bar rating. You are walking away and leaving best performance on the table at this point.

To Distribute or Not to Distribute

.
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Old 06-27-2013, 11:50 AM   #12
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Brakes, make dang sure you have good brakes and they are adjusted accordingly on the trailer. Stopping that mass without assistance from the trailer brakes could be a nightmare. Always give the tug-test/brake test. Get 'er rollin' about 10-15 mph and stop. You'll know if the trailer brakes did not engage.

Happy trails.
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Old 06-28-2013, 07:46 AM   #13
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With regard to the front axle weights and the hitch.

The loss of weight on the front axle means the hitch may need to be tightened up. It also means you have the right hitch if the poster who said you did not is correct.

HOWEVER you only lost what less than 200 pounds on the front.. I'm not sure the hitch can be adjusted that "Fine"

Try one link tighter and re-scale. But if the tong is level when hitched.. I'd not worry about it.

Ideally the tong should be level.. That is the more important specification.
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Old 06-29-2013, 10:15 PM   #14
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I would rather have a larger hitch than one that is too small. I have a 10,000 on my 180CK Fleetwood Pioneer and it is twice of what I need; but works great and if I decide to buy a larger trailer I already have to hitch. OR being the nice guy that I am, if a friend needs me to move a trailer for them I am set up to do that also.
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