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Old 09-21-2011, 08:20 PM   #29
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I agree those items would make it run cooler. and last longer. I remember you saying you bought with things allready installed on it. but I have NEVER seen anyone buy those type of items and install them on a diesel and then not turn up the fuel for more power. I worked for the nations largest cam company in the 90s as a techinal consultant so i have seem thousands of modded vehicles.
If it ran always with extra air it would smoke less and there would less soot in the exh side of the turbo, and EGR system.
I am positive someone in that trucks past turned it up and then probibly turned it back down before selling it.

I didn't mean to imply all mods are bad. I do think the parts on your truck now do sound like the ones to keep.
You are probably right about most people do up the HP with chips but the guy I bought it from wanted a dependable truck to haul a car trailer. He may have put in a tune or chip and taken it out before I bought it. What I can't believe is he said he never had a set of gauges like ScanGuage to know what's going on with it. He spent all that money and never thought of a set of gauges? OR he had gauges and knew there was another $3000 to spend to get it right so he dumped the truck on me. He won't return my phone calls or emails...

If it looks familiar it may be that I bought it off Ebay....
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Old 09-23-2011, 01:16 AM   #30
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You are probably right about most people do up the HP with chips but the guy I bought it from wanted a dependable truck to haul a car trailer. He may have put in a tune or chip and taken it out before I bought it. What I can't believe is he said he never had a set of gauges like ScanGuage to know what's going on with it. He spent all that money and never thought of a set of gauges? OR he had gauges and knew there was another $3000 to spend to get it right so he dumped the truck on me. He won't return my phone calls or emails...

If it looks familiar it may be that I bought it off Ebay....
Once you get the gremlins excised, you will have a reliable truck. If he had gauges, perhaps he installed them in his new ride.

I was thinking ScanGauge for my truck until I saw there was no monitor of transmission fluid temperature, I'm saving up for an Edge monitor, which has a pod that makes the install look built in.

I had a scare this week, loss of coolant big time, but no white smoke and the engine was working normally. I took the truck to my trusted mechanic and he found the leak. Not in the EGR cooler, but in the degas bottle. Replacing the degas bottle did the trick.
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Old 09-23-2011, 10:15 AM   #31
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You got lucky. Losing coolant or white smoke usually equals big problems. The ScanGuage II has the Transmission Fluid Temperature and 25 other gauges in their X gauge. You just have to program them in. I didn't like it at first then I realized that it has more gauges than any other system and it is tailored to your truck. The Edge does look better.

Got the truck back today and what a difference! A lot more power and smoother. Also got a BIG bill..... While testing it out I noticed the AC wasn't blowing as cold as it should ....
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Old 09-23-2011, 10:42 AM   #32
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Actually when you start removing items such as egr, cats, DPF, you have to get a programmer of some kind or it won't run. It will go in "limp mode". Saying that anyone having a programmer is after high hp is not accurate. I have a programmer on my truck but it is for a "turbo brake" which I don't get with stock programming. I don't "hot rod". It also provides me about 2 mpg.
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Old 09-23-2011, 11:14 AM   #33
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Then again all you with Ford problems could sell them and buy a Dodge with a Cummins engine.
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Old 09-23-2011, 11:28 AM   #34
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Dodge had their share of problems too. The first year 6.7 had a lot of problems. A fellow worker of mine had a new 3500 and it just about stayed in shop first year. He drove a loner more than his truck. All is well now. Took them that long to work out the emissions issues. Don't get me wrong though. I'm not bashing anyone. Just stating they all have had problems.
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Old 09-23-2011, 03:10 PM   #35
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Actually when you start removing items such as egr, cats, DPF, you have to get a programmer of some kind or it won't run. It will go in "limp mode". Saying that anyone having a programmer is after high hp is not accurate. I have a programmer on my truck but it is for a "turbo brake" which I don't get with stock programming. I don't "hot rod". It also provides me about 2 mpg.
You are so right. I bought a tuner when I ordered the new cooler. After we got everything replaced I ran it to see where it was at and to reset the problem codes. It reset all the codes and I tuned it for the EGR delete, open exhaust and heavy tow so the trans won't have to work as hard. Seems like I picked up 2 mpg too.

I read on the diesel forums where a lot of guys want the most HP and smoke but that's not me. I just want a dependable truck to tow my 5th wheel and not have to worry about it.

Also replaced the cheaply made plastic but not cheap heater by pass valve today. It was froze open so a lot of hot air was coming in the cab. The auto parts store wanted $59 for one so I went to Lowes and bough a super duty brass lever ball joint valve and 2 barb ends for $22. Works great and will never need replacing. Had the AC recharged so I hope I'm almost done....
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Old 10-15-2011, 07:49 AM   #36
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This is my 3rd diesel truck and everyone I owned needed attention. So on this one I attacked the problems from the start. I installed a Hypertech programer for cooling and economy. And used a ScangaugeII for economy also.
Then I realized I had lots of additional pulling power with no heat problems and the ScangaugeII could be programed to inform me of all the 6.0L requirements and protection for towing.

I have been pulling the 15K trailer now 4 years on 85 HP program and the truck has been flawless.

But I did have a problem with the coolant at 100K, and removed enough dirt in the cooling system to fill a jug. It plugged my oil cooler when I went to flush it out an replaced the coolant with ELC cat approved coolant. No way I do the same to my friends 6.0L. I have cleaned 3 more so far and have done it with success before plugging the oil cooler and major repairs. No way one should keep the Ford junk in their 6.0L. It was refused by the Europeen market before Ford started to use it. And Ford used it without approval from IH. because they had standardise to all the vehicles in early 2000.

If the trucks are worked hard and the proper coolant is used they are great and to me the best diesels around for the cost.

And due to EGR exhaust in the intake manifold, diesels should never be idled as required by all manufacturers.
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Old 10-15-2011, 11:23 AM   #37
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I agree, The ford coolant has to go. I put in Cat EL and flushed it good. I also put in a coolant filter and a new oil cooler after the flush. Even though I really flushed it out good and used restore my coolant filter blocked up within 500 miles. No wonder the oil coolers stop working. Deleting the EGR system (if you can) will save a lot of headaches too just keep your EGR valve hooked up after the delete so the computer thinks it's still there working.
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:27 AM   #38
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incase you didn't know when you install free flowing intake and exhaust it can overspeed the turbo and intern increase boost levels from stock parameters. Which can create heat problems. Also unlike a gasoline engine which will run cooler with larger amounts of fuel (running rich) a diesel engine gets hotter and runs hotter with increased amounts of fuel. If you keep adding more fuel through programmers a diesel engine will simply destroy itself.
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Old 10-20-2011, 09:11 AM   #39
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I have a 2006 F-250 w/6.0 PS. I've only recently started following some of the 6.0 problem threads since I moved up to a 5er that is right at my truck's published towing limits. I'm towing 14.8k with pin, GCVW and back axle at or slightly below the max. I'm a very "gentle" driver but at those weights its still getting a workout. Its has 38k miles on it. Never been chipped. Always been maintained well beyond Ford guidelines. Outwardly, it seems to run fine.

The only problem I've had was a failed Injector Control Module but I was getting nervous about this year's 3,000+ mile winter trip around the south so I had the EGR cooler and oil cooler replaced. Also flushed the cooling system, added a filter and an Interceptor scanning gauge.

I keep reading about the max 15 degree delta between coolant and oil. I don't know what mine was before the replacements but now my coolant varies around 190-200 and my oil 225-235. I NEVER get down to a 15 degree delta! That oil temp doesn't seem high but do I have a problem anyway even though everything is new?
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Old 10-20-2011, 10:29 AM   #40
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I have a 2006 F-250 w/6.0 PS. I've only recently started following some of the 6.0 problem threads since I moved up to a 5er that is right at my truck's published towing limits. I'm towing 14.8k with pin, GCVW and back axle at or slightly below the max. I'm a very "gentle" driver but at those weights its still getting a workout. Its has 38k miles on it. Never been chipped. Always been maintained well beyond Ford guidelines. Outwardly, it seems to run fine.

The only problem I've had was a failed Injector Control Module but I was getting nervous about this year's 3,000+ mile winter trip around the south so I had the EGR cooler and oil cooler replaced. Also flushed the cooling system, added a filter and an Interceptor scanning gauge.

I keep reading about the max 15 degree delta between coolant and oil. I don't know what mine was before the replacements but now my coolant varies around 190-200 and my oil 225-235. I NEVER get down to a 15 degree delta! That oil temp doesn't seem high but do I have a problem anyway even though everything is new?
Something is still wrong. 225 oil temp is the top of the range when pulling and still should be within 15* of the water temp. Do a search on the forum below and maybe you can find an answer, good luck.

Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 10-20-2011, 01:10 PM   #41
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Something is still wrong. 225 oil temp is the top of the range when pulling and still should be within 15* of the water temp. Do a search on the forum below and maybe you can find an answer, good luck.

Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Did some searching and 225 does seems high though not "park it" high. Depending on the flash level several posters are saying it should throw a code at somewhere between 15-25 degree EOT/ECT delta. Mine is regularly over 30 with no code.

Since I have new coolers and no code I'm thinking I'm getting bad data. Maybe I screwed something up configuring the Interceptor (by Aerotech) gauge. Does anybody else have the same gauge?
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Old 10-21-2011, 09:10 AM   #42
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I would use the aeroforce gauge for fuel pressure with a sensor and get a ScangaugeII Its the only gauge I use on my truck and so far it has been great and accurate.

If they did not flush the coolant properly and added Gold crap the cooler could be plugging again. Happened to a truck owned by a diesel mechanic down the road, he had to do the cooler in the fall and again in the spring.
But its the same mechanic that put power steering oil in my friends truck and ruined the pump. Ford, for as long as I owned then, are very special and proper maintenance is so important.

I found that just using ELC has been a great coolant to desolve the sludge deposited in the coolant passages. And a filter could be an assurance, but what will get caught in the filter also will plug the oil cooler because the Gold Crap seam to just move the sludge around and will not desolve it.

PS My truck is all stock and I have never seen any increase in heat and turbo overpressure, I feel my programer helps the engine. And I feel Hypertech knows more about my truck then Ford ever did.
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