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Old 03-21-2011, 08:02 AM   #1
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ford f 250 rough ride?

I bought a new 5th wheel toy hauler this past weekend in south texas, stayed at the beach a few days and towed the trailer back to west texas, 600 miles one way from Corpus Christi to Lubbock.
I have a 2006 f 250 crew cab 4 by 4 short bed 6.0 turbo diesel, i got 10 to 12 mpg towing my new Palomino Puma 356 QLB, dry weight of the trailer is 9200lbs.
My question: Is it normal to feel " bucking" when towing this size trailer, we felt a "back and forth bucking action in the truck", other than that the truck pulled this trailer fine. I think the "poor ride" when towing may be due to short wheel base, any thoughts?
By the way i am considering looking at a f350 crew cab, long bed, 4 by 4 dually.
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Old 03-21-2011, 08:59 AM   #2
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Yes.. that is the diff. of a 5th-wheel vs. travel trailor. A travel trailor will sway side to side, the 5er will buck forward and back. nature o the beast.
you might consider airbags in the back, ive heard they help alot with the "bucking".
there are many different setups of airbags, you can control the air-pressure from inside the cab. I dont have them myself, but have heard nothing but good things.
...and they are much cheaper than a new truck.
if your 5er weight is close to 10k dry, you might be suprised of your weight when your loaded ready to camp, and im sure the "tow-savvy" on here will chime in to tell you need a 1-ton DRW.
your fuel milage sounds just about right for your set-up.
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Old 03-21-2011, 09:08 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aspeyrer View Post
I bought a new 5th wheel toy hauler this past weekend in south texas, stayed at the beach a few days and towed the trailer back to west texas, 600 miles one way from Corpus Christi to Lubbock.
I have a 2006 f 250 crew cab 4 by 4 short bed 6.0 turbo diesel, i got 10 to 12 mpg towing my new Palomino Puma 356 QLB, dry weight of the trailer is 9200lbs.
My question: Is it normal to feel " bucking" when towing this size trailer, we felt a "back and forth bucking action in the truck", other than that the truck pulled this trailer fine. I think the "poor ride" when towing may be due to short wheel base, any thoughts?
By the way i am considering looking at a f350 crew cab, long bed, 4 by 4 dually.
Yes it is possible to feel the chucking from the trailer and truck as they go down the road and when stopping/starting. This is caused by the forces imposed on the king-pin in the hitch. There is some slop in the jaws that lock around the king-pin in both horizontal and vertical positions. My DW and I have experience this on both of our 5Er's, with our two different TV's.
One was a short bed truck and our current vehicle is a long wheel base truck.
We have eliminated most of the problem by changing out the pin-box to a Trailair pin-box. This has help to eliminate most of the force imposed on the hitch by the trailer through the king-pin. Through the use of an air bag and shock absorber in the new pin-box. This arrangement has isolated the trailer motion from the truck motion and allowed for a smother ride.
Jim W.
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Old 03-21-2011, 11:01 AM   #4
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would stronger leaf springs, like leaf srpings from a Ford f 350 truck, help the "bucking"
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Old 03-21-2011, 12:28 PM   #5
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As noted, an air pin box will help...we used the 5th Airborne model.
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Old 03-21-2011, 04:18 PM   #6
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We have a 2004 F250 Crew Cab, same as yours, basically. Had air bags installed which helped level the truck/trailer. We also have the Moryde(sp) pin box and the Pull Rite SuperGlide hitch...we are not experiencing the porpoising you describe, but not sure what to attribute the smooth ride to exactly. We tow a 38' Grand Junction Fiver w/3 slides.

Would definitely suggest the airbags !!
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Old 03-21-2011, 04:30 PM   #7
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Yes wheel base can cause it and I believe the distant between rear truck axle and trailer axle may enter into it. The combination of wheel bases may set up a porposing where different ones don't. Another thing is with a dully you can run less tire pressure that rides better and may cause less hop. I run mine at 55lbs and that is more cap than the axle cap. I am sure you need 80 for your weight.
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Old 03-21-2011, 04:39 PM   #8
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Besides the air pin/box, load distribution will also play a part in the ride. With a toy hauler, you have shifted significant load to the rear of the unit, allowing the pin to "chuck" in the jaws of the hitch. It may be as simple as to add some water to your potable tank to change the pin weight and correct the problem. I don't have it with my current 5er, but others with virtually identical trailers do have the problem.
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Old 03-21-2011, 04:52 PM   #9
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i ran the standard 65 lb tire pressure according to the sticker on the frame of the truck, the toy hauler was empty. I drove to Corpus Christi Wednesday, bought trailer Thursday, drove trailer 1.5 miles to rv park, camped, then towed trailer home ( aprox 500 miles) saturday. the toy hauler ( garage area) was empty, all tanks on the trailer were empty.
Would being aprox 500 or more pounds over "pin weight" cause this "bucking effect". Its really not bad "Bucking", depending on the road conditions sometimes there isnt any "bucking" at all.
Locally i can get a extra leaf added in my rear leaf springs for 350 dollars, or get a set of air bags installed for 600 dollars. then the other option ( the most expensive option) buy a 1 ton dually. Hard for me to buy a 1 ton dually, cause i bet we only camp 6 or 7 times a year, who knows maybe more, just did our first camp weekend, and can't wait to do more!
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Old 03-21-2011, 05:06 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aspeyrer View Post
i ran the standard 65 lb tire pressure according to the sticker on the frame of the truck, the toy hauler was empty. I drove to Corpus Christi Wednesday, bought trailer Thursday, drove trailer 1.5 miles to rv park, camped, then towed trailer home ( aprox 500 miles) saturday. the toy hauler ( garage area) was empty, all tanks on the trailer were empty.
Would being aprox 500 or more pounds over "pin weight" cause this "bucking effect". Its really not bad "Bucking", depending on the road conditions sometimes there isnt any "bucking" at all.
Locally i can get a extra leaf added in my rear leaf springs for 350 dollars, or get a set of air bags installed for 600 dollars. then the other option ( the most expensive option) buy a 1 ton dually. Hard for me to buy a 1 ton dually, cause i bet we only camp 6 or 7 times a year, who knows maybe more, just did our first camp weekend, and can't wait to do more!
If you have 'E' rated tire on your truck, they should be rated for 80psig. Also, that 9200 pound 'dry weight' - it might be a big lie as many. if not most are well over that tag number after you add in an a/c or two, 2 big propane tanks and a host of other options. Then some are 'unsprung' weight which doesn't include the axle assemblies/wheels and tires. An F250 may be bare minimum. Mine says 9999# but it actually weighs about 11,000. I wouldn't go the F350 route - unless you really want a new truck!! Just spend a payment or two worth to build the existing truck to higher rated capacity - when it's all over - there really isn't much difference except springs and maybe wheels and tires (I do like that new 6.7 diesel and keep hoping to hit the lotterey so I can have one)
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Old 03-21-2011, 05:24 PM   #11
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Check the load cap of the tires at max air pressure (on the side of tire), then weigh the loaded rig by axle. Also check the axle cap. Then decide where you are. Don't go by dry weight . You aren't going to tow an empty trailer.
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Old 03-21-2011, 05:34 PM   #12
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You make be asking too much for the load rating on your truck. Also, how was the trailer loaded. Were the fresh or waste tanks full? check your loaded pin weight (actual, not the brochure).

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Old 03-21-2011, 05:42 PM   #13
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Here's an effective fix for the fore/aft chucking. Demco Glide Rite

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Old 03-21-2011, 11:02 PM   #14
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Air up your truck tires to sidewall maximum for more stable towing. Chucking can be caused by many things, the most common is not having the trailer level when towing. When hitched up, measure trailer ground clearance in front and back. If the difference is 3" or more it should be made level for better towing. That was my personal experience anyway.
If you have ST trailer tires they must be inflated to sidewall maximum per mfgrs. specifications and warranty.
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