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Old 03-24-2014, 08:13 AM   #15
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I did it all on my own. There used to be some kits available from Monroe but they've discontinued them.

It's fairly easy to make a plate that will bolt to the bolts that hold the brake backing plate to the axle. You'd have to use longer bolts. Try to find a location on the frame so the shock can be as close to vertical as possible. Always use shocks that have a through bolt holding it top and bottom. That allows for more and easier suspension movement and it's easier to mount. Using a shock with a rubber disc and two rubber washers does not allow for much shock movement.

I can send you pictures of what I did. Not sure if I have the pics with me but I might. Just let me know.

We are in FL until the end of the month then back to AR.

TeJay
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Old 03-24-2014, 08:59 AM   #16
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If you can find the pictures that would be cool.

I was thinking I could do it like the rear shocks on my truck, bolt through the frame rail on top down to a bracket that bolts around the axle. (tough to explain in words) either way, I think I will price it out and see how it compares to making this other hitch work
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Old 03-24-2014, 09:10 AM   #17
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I just looked but can't find the pics. I'll go back to the old forums and maybe I can find my original posting with the pics.

Let me try that first before I try to explain what I did. you now a picture is worth 1,000 words.

TeJay
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Old 03-24-2014, 09:54 AM   #18
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I build a teardrop trailer using an old pop up unit.
It's light and tows very well. The previous owner of the pop up had installed shocks.
Even when towing it with my Miata it never sways and hitting holes or railroad tracks that trailer is smooth.
Being so light, I never tough it would help but it does in a big way.
I believe that shocks and balance tires plays a big part in stability. Also proper tire pressure in both TV and trailer does.
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2005 Ford F250 SD, XL F250 4x4, Long Box, 6.0L Diesel, 6 Speed Stick, Hypertech Max Energy for Fuel mileage of 21 MPusG empty, 12.6 MPusG pulling the BC. ScangaugeII for display..
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Old 03-24-2014, 09:55 PM   #19
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Goneracin,
I tried to find some of my posts but couldn't. I can try and talk you through what I did. It's really not that difficult.

Finding the correct location for both the top and bottom mount is your first task. I made a plate that I bolted to the frame for the top and mounted the shock to that.

For the bottom I took the lower U-bolt mounting plate off and welded a long bolt to it for the bottom mount. That was a fairly simple way to do it.

Determining the correct shock was a little more difficult. You have to determine the upper and lower limit of the shock and order one accordingly. I actually called a Monroe shock place and talked to a technician who recommends to individuals who are retro fitting vehicles like off-road and racing stuff for an application. I told him the compressed and expanded distance and the weight that it would handle. Also if I wanted compression and rebound dampening. Shocks will dampen in both directions if you need it to. I figured if one side compresses then the other side would expand and I wanted it to dampen in both directions.

If you need any other info just PM me.

TeJay
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Old 03-25-2014, 04:27 AM   #20
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Thanks, sounds pretty straight forward. I'll look into it next time I am under there.
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Old 03-26-2014, 02:00 AM   #21
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Just checked the shocks on my 5 th wheel today. It was a project I wanted to do before returning north.
3 out of 4 shocks were completely useless with all the oil leaked out. One was still good.
They were 014-122108 units that are build for trailer application. With 3/8in studs both ends.
Heartland had installed them to close to horizontal and the bottom stud on all of then was bent after the first 6 months. I relocated the top to proper angle of 60 degrees.
They were all good when I did the work.
But lately I noticed a lot more movement in the middle of the trailer so the need to check the shocks was required.
I went to every trailer parts places and RV parts store around this morning and no one ever carried shocks.
Last night I downloaded the Monroe shocks dimension charts and located shocks of similar design.
Located 4 units here in the Phoenix area and installed them this afternoon.
They are Monroe 5829 ST with 135 end kits.
ST for Sensa Track
I remembered installing the same shocks on my rear wheel drive Dodges in the 70s. They were used on the front.
The previous owner of my pop up was a Chrysler employee and make me think I have the save shocks on my TearDrop trailer home.
I am very satisfied of my day and my unit does not bounce anymore in the middle.
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2005 Ford F250 SD, XL F250 4x4, Long Box, 6.0L Diesel, 6 Speed Stick, Hypertech Max Energy for Fuel mileage of 21 MPusG empty, 12.6 MPusG pulling the BC. ScangaugeII for display..
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:16 AM   #22
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caissiel,
That was an interesting read. It confirms my long thought opinion concerning the manufacturers and why they don't really think they should put shocks on their units. The one's that I've seen were almost mounted horizontally which renders them completely useless. Also as many have reported they shocks were all bent and twisted after just a few months of use.
I helped a guy pack his wheel bearings last summer. The shocks on his $60K Big Country unit were mounted like yours. No engineer in their right mind would mount a shock at an angle that renders them useless, unless you don't really care if they work.

I installed shocks on our NT and it improved the ride and handling. I'm of the opinion that if the manufacturers installed shocks on TT's the need for sway control would be significantly less. Think about it. If the shocks dampen suspension movement when bumps and dips are encountered that means that the TT would also sway less. Less sway means just that, less sway.

It's because of the manufacturer's lack of concern that we now have a MH instead of a TT. I got tired of modifying ($$$) the TT with things that the manufacturer should have done in the first place

TeJay
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:37 AM   #23
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But it's the norm. All dealers I was at never heard of shocks for trailers. Including Camper World.
One place they had acres of all kinds of trailers, most bumper pulls.
Shocks helps on repair parts sales.
Fits in the same category as balanced tires. I see so many trailers driving down the road with shaking wheels and tires. It sure does not help in controlling the trailer.
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2005 Ford F250 SD, XL F250 4x4, Long Box, 6.0L Diesel, 6 Speed Stick, Hypertech Max Energy for Fuel mileage of 21 MPusG empty, 12.6 MPusG pulling the BC. ScangaugeII for display..
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:51 AM   #24
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yeah, I just dont see any reason to NOT have shocks or balanced tires? other than the actual cost of the items, what is the gain of not having them? that just seems like a lot to give up for a small cost savings
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Old 03-26-2014, 01:26 PM   #25
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Here's a write up on shock installation.RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Adding TT Shock Absorbers (Long/lots of pics)

Here's a video with Arctic Fox shocks. The shock part is short but still gives a quick look at another option.
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Old 03-26-2014, 02:52 PM   #26
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The length of a trailer has nothing to do with sway control. It's all about the location of the axles compared to the length of the trailer. Let's say you have 1T dually,...because we know they are stable, and capable of towing most trailers out there. If you take two of the same trucks with two of the same TTs( without WDH and sway control) loaded exactly the same to their max capacities,...then on one of the trailers, you move the axles(let's say 3') forward. That trailer is now very susceptible to sway because the trailer's tongue is unloaded and more weight is transferred to the rear of it, even though we didn't move any of the cargo around. We always wonder why manufacturers build TTs like they do, you gotta remember that they position the axles so that there isn't too much weight on the tongue, while keeping it maneuverable. A trailer with a shorter wheelbase is gonna maneuver and track better than one that has a longer wheelbase, as far as turning and backing. Look at semi trailers,....where are their axles located? Not even close to the middle. That's why they're at the back.
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:40 PM   #27
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I'll back up Bigg-Limo. Our 2010 Heartland North Trail 26LRSS had the axles more towards the center. Even with 12+% tongue weight and towing with a CC LB 3/4 ton you could see the back of the TT just waggling. I even bought a used Hensley and tried it. Even though you couldn't feel the waggling you could still see it using the Hensley. Worst towing trailer I ever towed.
I see now that Heartland has a new frame under the North Trail. Wonder why?
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Old 03-27-2014, 04:27 AM   #28
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That all makes sense, the forward lean of my TT, and having the water tank full, (located at the front half of the trailer) make a huge difference. It really shows how important it is to load and setup correctly.
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