Community Forums

abago71 · 08-06-2017, 07:21 AM

Hello everyone.
My wife and I have decided to try our hand at full timing. We have started to downsize and we have set a target date of Jan. 1st, 2019 to hit the road. We are not sure if we want to go Class C or a TT.
We have a 2013 Dodge Ram 1500 crew cab 5.7 Hemi and we have a 2005 Jeep Wrangler 4.0.
If we go the Class C route, we intend to use the Jeep as a toad.
If we go TT, we want to pull it with the Dodge Ram.
I prefer the idea of a TT as we would have one less engine and drivetrain to maintain.
My main concern is sizing a trailer to go with the truck as I have found conflicting info on the tow rating of the truck. I have used 3 different sites to run the VIN and all three have had different results.
I prefer ease of tow ability over size of TT. We plan to spend time in the mountains and I don't want to have issues towing.

We prefer to use our existing vehicles if possible as to not incur any new debt.
After we have experienced full timing for a while, we intend to upgrade to something we find more suitable.

Any advice on finding the true tow capacity of the Ram?

MSHappyCampers · 08-06-2017, 12:46 PM

Hi !

Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang!

Hope you find the perfect rig for your needs!

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!

SmokeyWren · 08-10-2017, 06:37 PM

Hi, abago71, and

and to our campfire.

Quote:

Originally Posted by abago71

...We have a 2013 Dodge Ram 1500 crew cab 5.7 Hemi...If we go TT, we want to pull it with the Dodge Ram....My main concern is sizing a trailer to go with the truck....

Any advice on finding the true tow capacity of the Ram?

Simple. But not as simple as reading it in a book or finding it on the internet.

Ignore any tow ratings you may find. The tow rating is rarely your limiter. Instead, payload capacity of your half-ton pickup, or perhaps the weight limits of the OEM receiver hitch on the Ram, are probably your limiters.

Let's deal with the receiver first, because that's the easiest.

Crawl under the rear bumper of your Ram and look up to the frame of the receiver to find a sticker that includes the weight limits. Ignore all of the weight limits except max tongue weight (TW) with a weight-distributing (WD) hitch. Divide the max TW with a WD hitch by 0.13 (13%) and the answer is the max GVWR of any TT you want to tow with that pickup. Max GVWR of the trailer is important because as a full-timer, you'll be hauling everything you own with you when you move the trailer from one location to another. And you don't want to overload the trailer, but you'll probably want to load it right up against the max capacity of the trailer.

If you cannot find the GVWR for any trailer, then add the dry weight plus the cargo carrying capacity (CCC) of the trailer to get approximate GVWR.

Next we'll deal with the Ram's payload capacity that will be available for hitch weight. This will require a lot more work and effort to get it right.

Load the pickup with everybody and everything that will be in it when towing the trailer from one campground to another. People, pets, tools, jacks and jackstands, everything that will be in the pickup and not in the trailer. Drive to a truck stop that has a certified automated truck scale, fill up with gas, then weigh the wet and loaded pickup. Subtract the weight of the wet and loaded Ram from the GVWR of the Ram, and the answer is the payload capacity available for hitch weight. (GVWR of the Ram is on a sticker on the inside of the driver's doorframe.)

Subtract 100 pounds from the payload capacity available for hitch weight for the weight of a good WD hitch, and the answer is the payload capacity available for tongue weight (TW). Hitch weight = TW plus the weight of the WD hitch.

Divide the payload capacity available for TW by 0.13 and the answer is close to the heaviest TT you can tow without exceeding the payload capacity of your tow vehicle. (I said "close" to the heaviest TT you can tow without being overloaded because tongue weight of a TT is usually 12% to 14% of gross trailer weight, and averages 13%.)

Now you know two max trailer weights - one restricted by the receiver hitch, and the other restricted by the payload capacity of the Ram. Whichever of those two weight limits is the most restrictive is the max weight of any TT you can tow without being overloaded.

When you put the numbers together, then shop for a TT you can tow without being overloaded, you'll see why almost all full-timers have heavier duty tow vehicles than a half-ton pickup.

If you're considering investing in a Class C motorhome, why not also consider investing in a heavier duty tow vehicle that will tow the TT of DW's dreams without being overloaded?

Mom and Dad had a Class C for years before they graduated to a Class A. The biggest complaint with the Class C was you had to sit on the toilet in order to take a shower. :(

MattE · 08-11-2017, 01:28 PM

Running the numbers as SmokeyWren suggested will be a very educational exercise, but I can virtually guarantee the outcome will be discovering that full-timing in a trailer that you can safely and legally tow with your 1/2 ton truck will be very cramped. I know you're trying to work with what you have now, but if it were me, I would look at replacing both vehicles with a good late model 1 ton diesel (Ford F350, Dodge 3500, etc) SRW (single rear wheel) truck. You'll be able to tow a wide range of TT or 5th wheels comfortably and safely, and if you stick with a smaller cab and short bed configuration, still have a reasonable daily driver.

Dropthejacks · 08-12-2017, 12:39 AM

My experience. I owed a 2014 RAM CC 4x4 1500 Bighorn. Advertised towing rate of 8000 lbs. When I bought it we had a TT weighing in dry at 4300 lbs. It pulled that little Starcraft like a dream. We upgraded in 2016 to a new TT weighing in at an advertised dry weight of 6300 lbs. On the way home from the dealership, I was delighted to find it took forever to get up to speed, that RV shoved me all over the road, and every time I would pass a tractor trailer going down a hill, it would pass me back going up the next hill while that 5.7 Hemi was screaming. Fast-forward to 3 weeks later, there was a 2500 RAM Cummins sitting in the driveway. I loved that 1500 RAM. It rode like a Cadillac, ran strong (unfettered) and I got a lot of complements on it. But when it comes to pulling weight on a regular basis (we are now pulling a 10K lb TT on a monthly trip basis) the 2500 has proven to be the tool to use. My advise, stay low below the "advertised" tow rating of the truck. Do not even get close if you want to actually enjoy your towing experience. Looking back, I should have stayed under 6000 lbs if I wanted to hang onto that 1500.

abago71 · 08-18-2017, 10:51 AM

Thank you to everyone that responded to my questions.
I am sorry for the delay. My wife recently had surgery and I am taking up the slack as she recuperates. She does a lot more around here than I realized.

We intend to start in a smaller TT with our current 1500 if we decide to keep our house. She prefers the little ones.
I know we will outgrow it quickly and we plan to trade up as needed.
It is my understanding than many full timer's go through multiple rigs until they find the right fit.

We would prefer to be cramped and actually doing it, as opposed to dreaming of the perfect rig and never following through.

My number one priority is safety.
After seeing some of the YouTube videos of RV accidents, I have no desire to push my luck.

When I have the opportunity, I will follow SmokeyWren's advice.
I am disabled and crawling under the bumper is difficult for me. So, I will either wait until one of my son's come over and have them do it for me.

Thank you all for your input. I am thrilled to find this community and look forward to the day I can contribute something worthwhile.

Mr_D · 08-18-2017, 10:59 AM

So far I haven't made it to full timing and I'm up to a 45', quad slide rig and it's just me and seven cats now.
I got my first TT in 1967, a used 16' towed with a '67 Camaro 4 speed. The Camaro was not a good tow rig so ordered a '69 Buick GS 400. That was OK till I got a 26' TT, went to a 3/4 ton PU. Traded the combo off on a 17' Type B MH in 1988 and haven't had a TT since. Good luck with your choice, what ever it is!

Normal_Dave · 08-18-2017, 11:26 AM

Smokey's advice as usual, is spot-on, and accurate, but with your current situation, I think we can work together to narrow the field of choices a little bit, without you having to climb under the truck.

You mentioned running your VIN, have you done it using Chrysler's site? OEM window sticker-copy and paste this link below into your address window, then type in your VIN, right after the "=" mark, then hit enter.
https://www.chrysler.com/hostd/windo...kerPdf.do?vin=
This will show a snapshot of standard and optional equipment.

Do the same for your original build sheet here:
https://www.ramtrucks.com/webselfser...etServlet?vin=
This will give you details including GVWR, gear ratio, class of receiver hitch, anti-spin differential, HD engine cooling, transmission cooler, etc.

Then look on page 6/7 of this chart and find your payload. Don't get excited about the max trailer rating shown on the chart, it exists only in perfect conditions (i.e. while standing on the moon, with 1 finger in your ear...)
https://www.ramtrucks.com/assets/tow...wing.Specs.pdf

You can do all this from the comfort of home while caring for your wife or if you don't want to fool with it, post up your VIN, and maybe a picture of your door sticker(s) and we'll work on it for you.