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Old 11-15-2014, 09:10 PM   #71
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I just purchased a 2014 Ram 2500 CCSB 4x4 diesel. The springs in the rear are coils along with the front. It is my understanding that the only difference between the 2500 and the 3500 is the springs and the 3500 badge. Unless you get the DRW's or Aisian trans. The frame, brakes, rims, tires, trans, cooling, axles, steering, bearings, everything. The 3500 still comes with leaf springs in the rear. I bet that most people that are overweight on the 2500's don't even know that they are. I really don't know what you should do or not do. I would say that a good test tow would be in order before you decide. If the dealer said that a 2500 would be fine for that TT I would just take it by the dealership. If they say you are overloaded then have them "unwind" the deal. That can be done if you have almost no miles on the truck. Good luck.
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Old 11-15-2014, 09:39 PM   #72
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Dodge towing

Personally I would hook up and head out with no worries. The more you load these Dodge trucks the better they pull. You should be fine with the weights, maybe right on the line. I have seen these trucks pull WAY over recommended with NO PROBLEMS. Even have seen a 2012 pulling a 30,000 pound trackhoe on a flatbed trailer. Pulled it like it was 10,000 pounds.
Good luck with your issue.
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Old 11-15-2014, 09:48 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by SDM1 View Post
Personally I would hook up and head out with no worries. The more you load these Dodge trucks the better they pull. You should be fine with the weights, maybe right on the line. I have seen these trucks pull WAY over recommended with NO PROBLEMS. Even have seen a 2012 pulling a 30,000 pound trackhoe on a flatbed trailer. Pulled it like it was 10,000 pounds.
Good luck with your issue.
Not good advice.

Pulling is one thing but doing it within limits and safely is another.
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Old 11-15-2014, 11:14 PM   #74
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I could only assume that the axle weight ratings are higher because the weight is not always evenly distributed and is dynamic, ie during braking and turning.
Your 7xx lbs under those 6500 RAWR and you say it handles good. Thats not surprising. Its doing what it was designed to do.
Brakes are a function of the individual GAWRs. Your truck has 6000 FAWR and a 6500 RAWR for a total of 12500 lb of braking performance. Same with a trailer with two 7k axles = 14000 lbs of braking performance.

The truck maker may use any GVWR he chooses up to the sum of the truck makers axle ratings. Some of our newer gen trucks GVWR are close to sum of its GAWRs. If you were to put the truck in commercial service its GVW can be the sum of the GAWRs.

Anywhere in the USA all vehicles on the road private or commercial come under axle weight limits. As has been discussed axle weight limits are posted on the drivers side door just as Canada uses. It reflects the trucks rear springs/wheel and tire load limits which will carry the trailers pin weight.


Quote:
FHWA... Questions and Answers about Vehicle Size and Weight

23 CFR 658.5 Definitions

Q.. What are recreational vehicles?
They are generally a vehicular-type unit primarily designed as temporary living quarters for recreational, camping, travel, or seasonal use that either has its own motive power or is mounted on, or towed by, another vehicle. (From ANSI)

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Q.. Are recreational vehicles subject to Federal size and reasonable access requirements?
No, because they are not commercial motor vehicles.

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Q.. Are recreational vehicles subject to Interstate axle weight limits?
Yes.

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Q.. Are recreational vehicles required to stop at State scale sites?
Each State may set its own requirements.
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Old 11-15-2014, 11:51 PM   #75
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us out west,
if you read I said PERSONALLY I would hook up and pull it. NEVER did I say I recommend for them to do that! I would have no problems with it myself. I PERSONALLY have hauled weights of this and more with no issues. The trucks all have a safety factor figured in for tow rating and payloads to ensure safety. So, they can do what they wish as for towing.
Read and understand before making assumptions.

I do know that in Tennessee ( Rocky Top Dodge) when you are buying a truck 3/4 ton or larger they ask what expected towing you will be doing and they ensure the tow rating is sufficient and if it is not they won't sell it to you because they KNEW what your intentions to tow were and they sold you a KNOWN TO BE under rated truck and they become liable. That's as per sales department at the dealership.
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Old 11-16-2014, 12:21 AM   #76
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The truck is fine, nothing is gonna break or over heat, I am over gvwr, so technically illegal. It will stop, but technically illegal. The truck is built tougher than stated by the sticker in The door but technically illegal. I've personally decided I am going to put airbags on the truck to help keep from being noticed but technically toeing that weight I'm doing so illegally. The stickers are binding comercial or recreational. I've learned a lot in this thread, but I'm not going to trade my truck right this second because it's 700 pounds over gvw
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Old 11-16-2014, 12:36 AM   #77
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I got interrupted,... I am concerned with being legal but I am also balancing that with being misled in my own ignorance. I would prefer to be legal without question, but I'm also confident that I'm not unsafe. I don't condone the thoughts that it can pull a bail of horses filled with water so it's fine for your 5er although I do believe it's a bad ass truck that can do just that. We as recreation users are in fact tied to the sticker in the door jamb believe it or not. Will we get ticketed? We hope not, and can plead ignorance, but that is no excuse. I'm gonna reluctantly pull that trailer illegally with my under rated truck with hopes that I don't get the long arm right up until I can replace it with the correct truck according to the law. Footnote I will not travel over 65, leave generous following distance and avoid congested traffic when ever possible, but it doesn't make it right, even though it's capable.
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Old 11-16-2014, 12:55 AM   #78
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Like 90% of the trucks pulling 5th wheels.
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Old 11-16-2014, 02:59 AM   #79
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Yes, because you're American, you are exempt of all Canadian law.

Surely us Brits are exempt or what's the point of an empire anyway?
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Old 11-16-2014, 08:26 AM   #80
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You might be perfectly okay towing in excess of your truck's numbers, but there's the problem of unintended consequences. If you are involved in an accident, even one in which you are totally not at fault, opposing attorneys can claim contributory negligence. This could be very, very expensive. I'm just not willing to risk my future like that, but others might be.
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Old 11-16-2014, 10:10 AM   #81
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Erlingiii -

Study the options on the RideRite website, and you'll see three primary options for the system to air up the bags:

1]. Manual. A Schrader valve for each air bag. Air up at a service station, or maybe carry a small 12-volt air compressor in the toolbox. The disadvantage of the small 12-volt air compressors is they are slow as Christmas.

2]. One Schrader valve with air lines connecting both air bags. Air up (or deflate) both bags at the same time with one air hose, or a compressor plumbed into the air lines.

3]. Automatic air system with on-board compressor, controlled by a smart phone, pad, or laptop, or maybe an airbag control console glued to the dash. The on-board compressor can be either a very slow 12-volt or a much faster but more expensive belt-driven compressor. Some people install an old York air conditioner compressor from a Ford vehicle from way back when. Google York compressor to read more than you probably want to know about a York DIY.
I have been using the RideRites for three year using a manual fill from the rear bumper. Thought that the compressor idea might be good, but for no more than I had to adjust them, it amounted to not a big deal. I carry a small 110-volt compressor in the basement of the 5'er, so it's always handy when I hook up. The RideRites were worked great at leveling the load out.
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Old 11-16-2014, 11:13 AM   #82
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I got interrupted,... I am concerned with being legal but I am also balancing that with being misled in my own ignorance. I would prefer to be legal without question, but I'm also confident that I'm not unsafe. I don't condone the thoughts that it can pull a bail of horses filled with water so it's fine for your 5er although I do believe it's a bad ass truck that can do just that. We as recreation users are in fact tied to the sticker in the door jamb believe it or not. Will we get ticketed? We hope not, and can plead ignorance, but that is no excuse. I'm gonna reluctantly pull that trailer illegally with my under rated truck with hopes that I don't get the long arm right up until I can replace it with the correct truck according to the law. Footnote I will not travel over 65, leave generous following distance and avoid congested traffic when ever possible, but it doesn't make it right, even though it's capable.
We were in the same predicament as you when we first bought a 2010 2500 Ram Cummins; after 1 year and 20K miles, we got ready to buy a BigHorn with an advertised net of 12,226, of which, 2,580 was pin weight.Before picking the RV up, I chickened out and went to the Dodge dealer with $10K in hand and got a 2011 3500 SRW Cummins.My scale number then, was 21,468 GCVW. My trailer axles weighed 10,424 lbs.My truck axles had a combined weight of 11,044 lbs.The truck unloaded (with 2 people and 3/4 tank fuel) is 8,010 lbs.(scaled wt.).My payload is limited (according to Dodge Ram ratings) is 10,100 lbs; this meaning, for 3 years I was over my truck payload weight by 944 lbs. while pulling.To live with this problem, I added the RideRite bags and the only time I was uncomfortable was when another drivers actions caused an issue.That's like on a daily basis though, isn’t it.As previous posters have stated, defensive driving is key, and we roll at not over 62-63mph.
This past month, I did what I should have done when we bought the BigHorn, and that is to buy the dually.We’ve gone to a 15’ Ram dually/Aisin/3.73 gears, and have also traded for a heavier Trilogy RV (net wt. of appx 16,800 according to mfg).Prior to our trading for the DRW truck, the Trilogy RV dealer stated the similar thing as you were told; “you’ll be fine with the SRW; that’s what many of the guys delivering our rigs have”.We went ahead and traded for the RV, but I left there with a gut ache.Within 2 days, I went and traded for a new DRW Ram.We are now very much within our appropriate weights. If I had it to do over, I would have bought the dually rather than the SRW 3500 three years back.Good luck with your decisions.
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Old 11-16-2014, 11:24 AM   #83
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1000's and 1000's of people tow over weight. Just drive thru any CG/RV park. Does it make it right? Heck no. But it just goes to show that towing over weight isn't the drive off the cliff scenario that the weight police make it out to be. If the weight cops wanted to give tickets out they could just sit outside the entrance and wait till they leave. Go to any brand forum and read about what guys tow and tow with and like the OP they just hook up and go. Go to any truck forum and it's the same way. With all that being said people towing over weight are in the minority IMO.
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Old 11-16-2014, 01:37 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by Erlingiii View Post
I got interrupted,... I am concerned with being legal but I am also balancing that with being misled in my own ignorance. I would prefer to be legal without question, but I'm also confident that I'm not unsafe. I don't condone the thoughts that it can pull a bail of horses filled with water so it's fine for your 5er although I do believe it's a bad ass truck that can do just that. We as recreation users are in fact tied to the sticker in the door jamb believe it or not. Will we get ticketed? We hope not, and can plead ignorance, but that is no excuse. I'm gonna reluctantly pull that trailer illegally with my under rated truck with hopes that I don't get the long arm right up until I can replace it with the correct truck according to the law. Footnote I will not travel over 65, leave generous following distance and avoid congested traffic when ever possible, but it doesn't make it right, even though it's capable.
I have been following the thread and the posts and have not heard any mention of a load spreader such as the Trailer Toad. Something like that would change the dynamics of the weight and depending upon the towing capacity could bring you in line with all of the weight requirements. Certainly would unload the truck so GVW and GAW would be OK.

When you were able to upgrade the truck the Toad could be resold so the net cost to tow within specs could be quite reasonable.
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