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Old 08-12-2018, 06:01 AM   #1
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I'm Confused

Some people I know would say that's normal, lol, but here's my dilemma. I have a 2008 Chevy Trailblazer LT2, 4wd. The sticker on the door says GVWR 5750 and it has an axle gear ratio of 4:10.

However when I go to a Camping World dealer's website, looking at any particular trailer there's a link that says "Can I tow this?". I click it, enter vehicle info, and it says I can tow up to 6600-6800 lbs. I know those limits include gear and all that.

Can anyone explain this to me?

In addition there's another feature that says "Show me what I can tow" based on those results and it returns everything in their inventory I can tow.
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Old 08-12-2018, 06:55 AM   #2
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My understanding of tow rating is what the manufacturer has determined the power train's safe strain limit is. Kinda like how much weight can you put in a wagon and still pull it without hurting yourself. You might be able to pull it with a couple hundred pounds in it whereas I might only be able to pull one hundred pounds. In other words you're a chevy I'm a ford. J/K
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Old 08-12-2018, 09:33 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jcarlson View Post
I have a 2008 Chevy Trailblazer LT2, 4wd. The sticker on the door says GVWR 5750 and it has an axle gear ratio of 4:10.

However when I go to a Camping World dealer's website, looking at any particular trailer there's a link that says "Can I tow this?". I click it, enter vehicle info, and it says I can tow up to 6600-6800 lbs.
The tow rating tells you only the max weight your drivetrain can pull with no weight in the tow vehicle other than a skinny driver, and with no options on the tow vehicle that were not required to achieve that tow rating. Tow rating is gross combined weight rating (GCWR) minus the weight of the unloaded tow vehicle.

But GCWR is only one of several weight limits your Chevy has. Your Owner's Guide tells you to never exceed any of the various weight limits of your Chevy. Other weight limits that apply to towing include GVWR. rear GAWR, and receiver hitch weight limits.

If your Chevy has the factory optional tow package, then your limit for how much trailer you can tow without being overloaded is probably the payload capacity of your Chevy. Payload capacity is your GVWR of 5,750 minus the empty weight of the tow vehicle. But max payload capacity of the tow vehicle doesn't give you any useful information. You need to know the unused payload capacity available for hitch weight, which is the GVWR of the tow vehicle minus the wet and loaded weight of the tow vehicle ready to back up to the trailer, hook up, and go.

You won't find that number on any website, brochure or towing guide, because nobody knows the factory and aftermarket options on your SUV, or how much weight you will load into the SUV before you tie onto the trailer. So the only way to know for sure is to load the SUV with all the people, pets, toys and other weight that will be in it when towing. Drive to a truck stop that has a truck scale and fill up with gas. Then weigh the wet and loaded SUV. Subtract the weight of the wet and loaded SUV from the GVWR of the SUV and the answer is the payload capacity available for hitch weight.

Subtract 100 pounds from the payload capacity available for hitch weight to get payload capacity available for tongue weight (TW). That 100 pounds is the weight of a good weight-distributing/sway-control hitch required for any trailer that grosses more than about 3,850 pounds.

Divide the payload capacity available for TW by 13% (0.13) and the answer is the approximate max weight of any properly-loaded travel trailer (TT) you can tow without being overloaded.

Sorry, there ain't no shortcuts. Trying to guestimate weights is a sure way to wind up overloaded when you get on the road. Load it up, fill it up, and weigh it. Then do the math and you'll have the answer you need.

Quote:
I know those limits include gear and all that.
Then don't cheat yourself when weighing the SUV by not including all the weight that will be in the SUV when towing. Be sure all the people, pets and "gear" that weighs more than a handkerchief is in there when you weigh it.

Quote:
In addition there's another feature that says "Show me what I can tow" based on those results and it returns everything in their inventory I can tow.
Unless the tow rating used by their formula is the same as the max weight of any properly-loaded travel trailer (TT) you can tow without being overloaded calculated above, then that feature is useless. It guarantees that you will be overloaded when you weigh the wet and loaded rig on a CAT scale during your third RV trip. The max weight of any properly-loaded TT you can tow without being overloaded will be a lot less than the 6,600 to 6,800 pounds tow rating they used. So don't even dream about a 6,600 pounds TT until after you know the payload capacity available for hitch weight of your SUV, then do the math to calculate max trailer weight.

Be prepared to learn that you cannot tow a regular TT with your SUV without being overloaded. Then consider molded fiberglass "egg" or "teardrop" TTs such as Casita, Escape and Egg Camper.
Example: Casita Travel Trailers - America's Favorite Lightweight Travel Trailers!
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Old 08-13-2018, 03:55 AM   #4
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I'm not sure what you just said, but I'll go with it, lol. I'm not looking to tow 6600 lbs, that's for sure. I just want to be able to row something more than a popup or hybrid; something like 24'-25' +/-.
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Old 08-13-2018, 04:09 AM   #5
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Smokey's provided you with a ton of good info to digest. Let me give you a non-numbers perspective.

I've been through a few trailers and tow vehicles, including a late 2000s GMC Envoy. I towed our popup all over the midwest with that Envoy. I made exactly ONE trip with the Envoy once we got our new TT (6,000 lbs), and that was from dealer to our driveway. No way I was going any further w/o a proper tow vehicle. Even then, it took me two trucks to get it right. . .but that's another story.

I believe that with the tow vehicle you currently have, a popup is the best option for you. You might also get away with a very small (i.e. 20 ft) hybrid TT, but I don't think you'd like it in mountains, on interstates, or in marginal weather (i.e. windy).

Advantages of a popup with this tow vehicle include lower weight and, most importantly, much less wind resistance.

Regardless of your final decision, be safe and have fun!

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Old 08-13-2018, 09:02 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Jcarlson View Post
Some people I know would say that's normal, lol, but here's my dilemma. I have a 2008 Chevy Trailblazer LT2, 4wd. The sticker on the door says GVWR 5750 and it has an axle gear ratio of 4:10.

However when I go to a Camping World dealer's website, looking at any particular trailer there's a link that says "Can I tow this?". I click it, enter vehicle info, and it says I can tow up to 6600-6800 lbs. I know those limits include gear and all that.

Can anyone explain this to me?

In addition there's another feature that says "Show me what I can tow" based on those results and it returns everything in their inventory I can tow.

You can tow 6600-6800 lbs behind the SUV. Weight of the SUV + passengers + gear + trailer hitch weight cannot exceed 5750 lbs. They are two different limits.
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Old 08-13-2018, 09:23 AM   #7
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Reading your first post it appears you didn't know what that GVWR 5,750# meant.

As has been pointed out, that figure was the maximum weight allowed for the vehicle itself before exceeding the weight limits. It has by itself nothing to do with towing.
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Old 08-13-2018, 09:37 AM   #8
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Why not look at the occupants and cargo capacity and use that as a baseline. Inside you door there will be a sticker that says occupants and cargo should never exceed x,xxx.

If you weigh the truck the GVWR minus actual weight should be close to the Occupants / Cargo capacity.

You can probably tow a Winnebago Micro Mini trailer, a tear drop T@B or Little Guy, an A-Liner type, R-Pod trailer. I would doubt you would be happy towing a full sized, 8' wide hard shell camper.
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Old 08-13-2018, 10:10 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Jcarlson View Post
I just want to be able to row something more than a popup or hybrid; something like 24'-25' +/-.
If by 24' you mean the old industry standard of 24' box length or interior length, and probably including 24 in the model number, then that ain't going to happen without overloading your mid-size SUV when loaded for an RV outing. If you mean 24' overall length, including tongue, rear bumper and spare tire, then you have a prayer of not being overloaded if you find an ultra-lite TT with about 19' interior length, and then you travel very light with minimum weight in the SUV and trailer.

My TT model 196S is about 23' overall length with a GVWR of 5,600 pounds. As the model number indicates, it's about 19.6' interior length. No slides, so crowded for a couple with two dogs. It is complete with AC, bathroom with a real bathtub, microwave, hot water heater, furnace, range, oven, etc. For long trips with empty holding tanks, it grosses about 5,000 pounds with tongue weight of 650 pounds and hitch weight of about 800 pounds (yes, my ProPride hitch is heavy!).

So study and understand my previous post. Load the SUV then weigh it and do the math to determine payload capacity available for itch weight. Then don't buy a TT that will overload your SUV. If your heart is set on a normal TT with 24' interior length, then plan on trading for a heavier-duty tow vehicle.

If you want to keep the SUV, then look into a compact molded fiberglass TT such as the Casita or Escape TTs about 19' overall length. Here's the Escape 19:
The 19 Foot Escape

Tandem axle
19' 6" overall length
15' 6" interior length.
GVWR 5,000 with 3,000 dry weight means you could load it with the normal 1,000 pounds of gear and have tongue weight of about 520 pounds. With a good WD hitch, that's about 620 pounds of hitch weight. You can probably figure out how to limit weight in the SUV to have 620 pounds payload capacity available for hitch weight.

The Escape is made in Canada and available only by special order. Don't count on getting one fast. If you want it fast, then consider the Casita, Egg Camper, or other molded fiberglass TTs.

There are 17' and shorter molded fiberglass TTs available, but they have a single axle. I prefer tandem axles, but YMMV.
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Old 08-13-2018, 10:37 AM   #10
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In 2008 they offered a small block V-8 I think itís a 305. Anyway what u are seeing is probably for the 350. I have a small block Silverado and canít tow much with it. The gas mileage is great, around 20mpg.

I have 3 trucks, the 350 Chevy is 25 years old while it runs great it isnít something I would tow long distances with. The other is the small block v-8 and Colorado 4 cyl not the 5 cyl.

All of these are paid for so rather than buy a truck with the 8.1 which I would love , except for the gas mileage. I had a HD 2500 that I sold when gas was over $4 gallon that got 12 mpg unloaded.

I bought a class A, paid cash and called it a day. Having to buy the truck I needed to pull the 5 th wheel I wanted would have required a loan. I wonít owe money on recreational vehicles.
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Old 08-13-2018, 10:39 AM   #11
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I have to say what scares me is you went to Camping World that's like going to Wells Fargo and opening an account please no
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Old 08-13-2018, 10:50 AM   #12
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I have to say what scares me is you went to Camping World that's like going to Wells Fargo and opening an account please no
Haha yeah that too. If we get a loan for anything we use our Credit union. While I would consider something from camping world I tried to close a couple cash deals with them at 2 separate locations and ended up walking away. The primary issue is the fees they charge for docs and PDI. Always ask for that info up front. I wanted them to take their fees $2000 off the price. Most other decent places charge $250 for docs and PDI.
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Old 08-14-2018, 12:33 PM   #13
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Haha yeah that too. If we get a loan for anything we use our Credit union. While I would consider something from camping world I tried to close a couple cash deals with them at 2 separate locations and ended up walking away. The primary issue is the fees they charge for docs and PDI. Always ask for that info up front. I wanted them to take their fees $2000 off the price. Most other decent places charge $250 for docs and PDI.

Just wait till you buy something from CW and then take it back for warranty repairs. Might as well cancel your camping plans for the next 6 months, and prepare yourself for lots of unreturned phone calls and the blank stares you get when you go to complain. Eventually you'll get it back though, only to find they only fixed a couple of the problems and left the rest for you to deal with.
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Old 08-14-2018, 07:23 PM   #14
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Lol on CW!! Actually I'm just scratching the surface of an RV purchase so at this point I'm just window shopping to see what's what. I just happen to see that link on CW.

Here's where I'm stuck. I'd really prefer to have a Class C, however my budget of $30k that doesn't get me a Class C that's worthy of that money. It does however but a lot of TT.

But, with my current Trailblazer I can't really have what I want. In order to get what I want I need a bigger vehicle like a Tahoe or Silverado; something full size.

Well, that has issues too. To get a full size vehicle I have to spend $20-$25k or more, then buy the TT I want. Hell if I'm doing that then why not buy the Class C?

I'm just wandering around in circles here. Luckily for me, whatever I do I'm not doing it til Spring, or at least 2019 after the RV show in Columbus Oh (Go Buckeyes!)

To compound my cornfusion, yesterday I noticed a sticker by my factory hitch that says "7800 lbs with weight distributing". Ok so what does that mean?
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