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Old 03-14-2006, 08:25 AM   #1
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I'm rated for 8650 and I tow a 31 ft HR TT that weighs 8,000 empty. I have the HA hitch and a Prodigy controller. Do I need to change the Goodyear Pmetric tires and what else can I do to improve stability and braking?
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Old 03-14-2006, 08:25 AM   #2
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I'm rated for 8650 and I tow a 31 ft HR TT that weighs 8,000 empty. I have the HA hitch and a Prodigy controller. Do I need to change the Goodyear Pmetric tires and what else can I do to improve stability and braking?
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Old 03-14-2006, 08:39 AM   #3
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you do realize that if the 8650 is your trucks tow rating, that it leaves only 600 lbs for gerenal and stuff.
whats your durango max rated gross combined weight rating?
front axle and rear axle rating?
and what does it weigh? and does the trailer really weigh 8k empty?
if you are still in the ratings, yes some stiffer sidewall tires will help with sidewall roll and stabilty.

i quickly checked at dodge for tow ratings and wts.
it said you have a gcvwr of 14,000
and a gvwr of 6600 lbs
BASE curb wt around 4900, this is probalby very optimistic and is LOW
so if you and say you add others in your durango are loaded up lets say that brings you up to
5200lb empty
add some gas
@ 6lbs a gallon 20 gallons= 120 lb
now we are at 5320 lbs of just you and some friend and fuel
which leaves 8680 left over for tow rating, pretty close huh
so now we add 30 gallons of fresh water @ 7.5 lbs per gallon=225
so you may now load about 400 lb s of food and lp to go on your trip and be within the rated limits.

I for one would go get accurate wts done at a scale of truck, trailer and the two hitched up road ready.
simple thing is you need a bigger tow vehicle.
hope it helps,, didnt mean to be cras or rude.
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Old 03-14-2006, 02:31 PM   #4
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I don't want to rain on your new parade, but yo need to get your truck weighed and work with the real weights and GVWR and GCWR.

The 8650# is a MAXIMUM tow rating and is based on a base model truck, no cargo, no hitch (add 150#), and only a 150# driver aboard. Add these items and you reduce the towing capacity by the same amount.

Your 8000# empty trailer, will probably be closer to 9000# once loaded.

In the real world, the 8650# rating is probably closer to 6500#.

Ken
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Old 03-15-2006, 06:25 PM   #5
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Powerboatr and TXiceman, Thanks for the replies.

I realized I needed a 3/4 ton or bigger truck but "we" insisted on an SUV. I test drove an Excursion and disliked the wandering feel it had. The dealer would not consider changing the tires and the thing cost 13k more than the Durango. I did not realize 8,020 lbs meant somewhere in the neighborhood of 8500 lbs if I'm lucky.


I have decided to weigh everything I carry and make do with small loads of junk until I find a diesel SRW 1 ton I can afford. I already have 13K in the kitty.

Meanwhile I really do solicit any additional improvements anyone can pass along.

Bill
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Old 03-16-2006, 04:09 AM   #6
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good tires and good shocks
tires with a load range comparable to your rear axle weight rating, gas charged shocks.
bout it. a good transmission gauge to keep an eye on real temps not an idiot light.

good luck
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Old 03-16-2006, 12:04 PM   #7
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I had a 95 Dodge Ram 1500 extended cab lwb when we decided to trade our popup in for a 30 ft TT. I did not know much about towing and weights. The TT was 4800 lbs dry and the truck was rated at 8000 lbs. I thought we would be ok with it. When we pulled off of the dealers lot I imeadely started to feel sway and an unstable feeling. I stoped and put 50 lbs of air in the tires. That helped, but when I got home I descovered I had P-metric tires and the max. pressure I could run was I think 40 lbs. A friend suggested that I put E rated tires on my truck and that helped a lot. I could run 90 lbs. of air if I wanted to, but I usualy ran about 75 lbs. The P tires are too flexable in the side walls with all that weight on them. The E tires have stiffer sidewalls.

Bill
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