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Old 05-07-2015, 04:08 AM   #1
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Installing Exhaust Brake

just completing the first steps on installing a new Pac Brake exhaust system on my 98 Dodge CTD 12V auto with the required exhaust springs upgrade.
And you when all completed I'll need to go in and inspect ad maybe replace my rears. I've only had a little over a month an a half. They work fine and the previous owner said "about" 50% but I need to make the call on how much is there.
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Old 05-07-2015, 10:45 AM   #2
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I don't understand what you mean about "inspecting the rears". Do you mean brake shoes? Tires? Did you know that you can upgrade the rear drum brakes on your truck? All you do is replace the rear wheel cylinders with part number 37337 available at NAPA and many other parts places. The cylinders are a direct bolt in so no modifications needed. The larger cylinders help lots!
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Old 05-07-2015, 10:56 AM   #3
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It's been a long time since I did a Pac Brake install on a 12v Cummins; but if memory serves the valve spring change was not recommended on auto transmission trucks. Due to possible torque convertor problems, caused by the extra hold back .
Has something changed?
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Old 05-07-2015, 11:01 AM   #4
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Sorry about that I meant was I need to do my own inspection of my rear axle drum brakes (shoes and cyl.)
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Old 05-07-2015, 11:47 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426 View Post
It's been a long time since I did a Pac Brake install on a 12v Cummins; but if memory serves the valve spring change was not recommended on auto transmission trucks. Due to possible torque convertor problems, caused by the extra hold back .
Has something changed?
In their installation manual it's noted as required to put in supplied 60# E springs For the 12v Dodges. What they’re saying is that OEM exhaust spring won’t hold the exhaust pressure when brake activated. The newer 24v rigs came with 60# springs. Not sure what and how they (PacBrake) controlled everything before but, now they splice into the wiring (PCM) with a nice wiring harness for their controller. They come with heat shrinkable butt connectors (like factory) and they also us the trucks diagnostic plug (OBD). Also you need to cut your exhaust header pipe to account for the extra length brake and adapter flange that and the springs are the two major things to address ( not for everyone)
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Old 05-08-2015, 02:27 AM   #6
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I remembered what the change was , the actual Pac Brake assembly was the same for standard and automatic trans. But the kit included a block off bolt to be installed in one of two pressure relief holes in the plate and a note in the instructions , to order and replace the exhaust valve springs, when closing off the one hole.
I'm sure the reason given was excess heat build up in the trans fluid as a result of the higher pressure.
Maybe a trans temp gauge would be in order.
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Old 05-08-2015, 02:54 AM   #7
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The first three things I put on my Dodge was a ET probe, boost and trans temp (it's a racing thing) and I know some out there like fuel pressure gauges "Why" what are you going to do while drive nothing you can't do stopped.
Back in the day like you say Pac and everyone else used a block off bolt/plug in the butterfly. Today or current times they have some electric marvels (guys and gals) figuring out how to control electrics.
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Old 05-08-2015, 10:58 AM   #8
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Fuel pressure gauges, on Cummins , would be to monitor the , 24 valve engine's , problematic , electric lift pump performance.
A failed or failing , electric lift pump can kill the injector pump on the newer engines, because they use and return to the tank, 70% of the fuel they are supplied for cooling and lubrication.
That's a problem the mechanical lift pump on the 12 valve engines didn't have.
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Old 05-14-2015, 05:31 PM   #9
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Well a little late on my test drive report after I completed full installation of the PacBrake on my 1998 Dodge CTD 12v Auto. I have to say thumbs up for a complete kit and a clear install manual.
Did the ign. on with exhaust brake on test and the compressor cycled threw charging the system and waited a few minutes after compressor shut off to see if it stayed pressurized, Shut the EB off and started her up (sweet back to life) you could hear her doing the noted Self Test Cycle of the EB. Closed the hood and backed her up. In their test drive portion they say with OD off and EB on take vehicle up to 40 or so and release throttle. Doing this (maybe a little faster)with slight down hill grade it was working nicely after about three different activations it reduced my speed one time down to a point that I thought maybe it failed or I needed to adjust the throttle switch a little but no it was the vehicles RPM's hitting around 900 (PB controller shut off point) which is stated in the install manual. So another
I was thinking the Exhaust B only worked in 3rd (with OD off) there going fuel mileage but, when calling PB tech support I was informed that you just need to be at higher road speeds.
Just can't wait to get some weight behind me Ooh I better hurry up and finish my TT bearing inspection and packing (brakes a great).
Happy Trails and I'll see you out there.
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