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Old 08-27-2019, 07:14 PM   #29
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I have not had any of my regular customers needing a trans in over 15 years as long as they performed maintenance when I suggested it. I am NOT one of those "flush all fluids every time" shops either. I have no flush machines.
I am glad to hear this from a professional ! I have always thought the "flush all fluids" place were a scam and the "recycle with additional additives" an even BIGGER SCAM !
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Old 08-27-2019, 07:18 PM   #30
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One cannot go by fluid color or smell anymore for deciding fluid replacement time. WS fluid as used in many Toyotas gets brownish rather soon and smells odd. Some Ford ATF fluids turn brown and can even smell "burnt" in as little as 20 000km, doesn't mean it is toast yet.
This really messes up "old school" guys like me !

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If fluid is really burnt it is too late. Old fluid cakes on varnish on shift valves and such, really not ideal. Do what you want with yours but don't recommend this for others.
100% correct.

"Burnt" ATF is usually friction material that has come off of the bands/clutches inside the transmission. If they are not slipping already they will be soon !
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Old 08-27-2019, 07:28 PM   #31
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I believe all current FWD Ford transmission have a drain plug. Not sure about the 10R80 or 6R140. If it makes you "feel good", drain the pan and replace what came out, but use genuine Motorcraft ATF (probably LV).

The in pan filter really never needs to be changed. It primary purpose is to prevent any metal shaving left over form the original machining from getting back into the transmission internals. If you are getting addition metal shavings, it is already too late.

Also, on FWD Ford (and I believe GM) vehicles there definitive way of setting the fluid level. Withe the vehicle hot and running, remove the left fron wheel and inner fender liner to expose the side of the transmission. There is a max fill plug there. Open it and let excess oil out. If none comes out, add some. I will likely be less than one quart.

EDIT : 6R140 DOES have a drain plug. I do not believe the 10R80 has one.
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Old 08-28-2019, 11:13 PM   #32
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Most (all?) modern ATF is either synthetic or semi-synthetic. They can probably handle temp close to 300 before breaking down.
Depends on where you take the temp.

If you take the tranny temp in the "hot" line just as the ATF leaves the torque converter heading for the cooler(s), then you'll see 300 often.

If you take the tranny temp in the "cold line" just before the ATF goes back into the tranny, then you probably won't ever see over about 200.

You want to take the temp from the sump, and 225 is the max sump temp unless you can see the top of the pass right in front of you. The 4R100 tranny in my '99.5 F-250 had a port that returned sump temp. The tranny temp reported by the OBD2 port was higher than sump temp, because the sender was in the valve body and not in the sump.

If your tranny does not have a port that returns sump temp, then you need to install a theaded bung in the lower side of the pan, and screw the sender for your tranny temp gauge into that bung. Then use 225 as your red line.
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