Originally Posted by dcarver
Well finally did it! Bought a 2000 f250 7.3. Has a 149k, 98gal aux fuel tank with digital read out, and an A.R.E utility camper shell. Pristine condition so I jumped on it for 9k. I'll post pics tomorrow.
Good find. The engine is almost bulletproof if you keep fresh clean 15w40 oil in it. Stick with name-brand diesel motor oil - Rotella or DELO 400.
The weak point is the 4R100 tranny. Be sure you have a good analog tranny temp gauge with the sender installed in the port on the side of the tranny. Red line is 225°. Don't exceed the red line temp.
If you ever see over 220° tranny temp, then replace the stock oil-to-air (OTA# tranny cooler with the much bigger one from a 2003-2007 6.0L. That's a simple mod that requires a few plumbing parts to connect the 3/8th inch supply lines to the 1/2 inch connectors on the 6.0L cooler.
Pay attention to noise from the torque converter. If you hear the least bit suspicious sound from the torque converter, replace it with a new OEM torque converter.Life of the stock torque converter was not much over 100,000 miles. If the torque converter goes south, it will take the tranny with it.
If the tranny goes south, you have three choices to replace it. Least expensive is a Ford OEM 4R100 tranny that will cost around $2000 including a new torque converter. Expect that one to last another 100,000 miles with the care indicated above. Next up is a Ford very-special rebuilt 4R100 HD tranny. These are a lot more expensive, but you should be able to get one installed for around $4,000. Expect that one to last over 250,000 miles with the care noted above. And best is a rebuilt 4R100 tranny/torque converter by Brian's Truck Shop #BTS). Those are probably around $5000 now, but are guaranteed for as long as you own the truck.
At 112,000 miles, my torque converter was slipping too much, so I drove to BTS and had him rebuild the tranny. That was way back when, and my out-the-door cost was less than $3,000.
BTS: E4OD | 4R100 | 5R110 Ford Diesel Powerstroke Transmissions
The 7.3L engine needs a little more HP to drag an 8,000+ pound trailer over the mountains without downshifting for every little bump in the road. But DO NOT
add a chip or tune until after you have a pyrometer and boost gauge. NEVER
allow more than 1,250° EGT or 25 PSI turbo boost. With gauges, you cab add a towing tune with up to 80 additional HP without reducing the longevity or durability of your engine if you drive by the gauges and never allow too-high EGT or boost. On mine, I could downshift and climb a mountain at 55 to 60 MPH, driving by the gauges at 1,200 to 1,250 EGT and 18 to 20 PSI boost.