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Old 05-15-2009, 09:44 PM   #29
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Observations regarding the 3/4 vs 1 ton trucks: I am sticking to Ford or GM, just because of previous experience with Mopar products. Clean, used one tons are tough to come by, particularly in an extended cab SRW, in either brand. There are about a zillion F250 Superduty out there, the prices are much lower. Same goes for 2500HD's. I have been looking for an Excel 26TRW used but not finding much, nor much in the way of shorter Hitchhikers. Tried to buy a 27 5L Arctic Fox and got beat out. After reading all these posts, in particular learning that there is no difference between an F250 or F350 SRW, I am thinking to back off and look for a 3/4 ton. Does anybody know if the 2500 and 3500 SRW products from GM are the same as Fords, no diff?
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Old 06-01-2009, 06:00 PM   #30
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I have had two 3/4 ton trucks and if I can the next one going to be a 1 ton dually. I am limited to which fifth wheel I can buy. The reason I got the 3/4 ton it is my everyday vechicle. I am sure when it weighted at the National rally in a couple weeks I am going to be overloaded. It does tow ok and no problems in over 40k towing the fiver. I also like the dual tires on the rear , much safer if you blow a rear tire.
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Old 06-18-2009, 11:47 PM   #31
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I have had two 3/4 ton trucks and if I can the next one going to be a 1 ton dually. I am limited to which fifth wheel I can buy. The reason I got the 3/4 ton it is my everyday vechicle. I am sure when it weighted at the National rally in a couple weeks I am going to be overloaded. It does tow ok and no problems in over 40k towing the fiver. I also like the dual tires on the rear , much safer if you blow a rear tire.

Hi, I had 2 3/4ton EC SB 4X4's and recently changed to a dually crew cab long box because of the new fiver, the towing experience is much more stable and other than parking further away than usual, I cant really see a big difference driving the dually not towing, just being aware of the wider rear end.

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Old 06-19-2009, 04:01 PM   #32
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Actual facts: I just had my rig weighed at the rally. My 5er has a GVW of 15,500#, the actual pin weight is 3,100#(22.5%) of actual trailer weight, 13,700#. My Chev K3500 dually rear axle weight is 6,520#, loaded truck weight= 11,020#. This calculates out to mean I have 380# of the truck GVW remaining. This eliminates a SRW 1ton truck and any 3/4 Ton truck.
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Old 06-19-2009, 11:20 PM   #33
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Observations regarding the 3/4 vs 1 ton trucks: I am sticking to Ford or GM, just because of previous experience with Mopar products. Clean, used one tons are tough to come by, particularly in an extended cab SRW, in either brand. There are about a zillion F250 Superduty out there, the prices are much lower. Same goes for 2500HD's. I have been looking for an Excel 26TRW used but not finding much, nor much in the way of shorter Hitchhikers. Tried to buy a 27 5L Arctic Fox and got beat out. After reading all these posts, in particular learning that there is no difference between an F250 or F350 SRW, I am thinking to back off and look for a 3/4 ton. Does anybody know if the 2500 and 3500 SRW products from GM are the same as Fords, no diff?

the newer GM trucks the 2500 and 3500 SRW are similar. I am not up to speed on all the options that were available the last few years, so you will still need to do some homework. But for the smaller 5ths you are wanting/looking at, a well equipped 3/4 will serve you well.
If you are still thinking of some off roading, F250/2500 or F350/3500 SRW is the way to go over a DRW, you cant take them anywhere off road! Except a graded gravel road, but I dont concider that off road.
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Old 07-10-2009, 04:59 PM   #34
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There are so many opinions about how much truck do you really need, and I think that most seasoned RVers tend to lean to the more is better - as long as they can afford it. These folks are the ones doing 15 mph up hills, and 65 down them. They also take 1/2 mile to get up to speed and as long to slow down - unless they are going up hill. I have had several TV/TT combos over the course of the last 25 yrs. I have also seen a wide range of towing capacities and trailer wts listed in brochures as well. You see, aside from the engineering aspect, there is the sales and marketing aspect - GM announces a new larger tow rating and Ford and Dodge now must figure out how they can top it - so there is a meeting where engineering is asked how they can squeeze 500 - 1000lbs more tow rating. Easy answers often involve simple things like lowering the curb wt - so rather than rate the towing capacity of the crew cab - you advertize the tow rating of the std cab - you can also include or exclude the 150lb driver if you want - just make sure the fine print and the bottom of the chart reflects this. I also notice that Ford changes it's CGWR depending on GVWR - therefore the same drivetrain (engine, trans, rear end) can tow different loads simply based on the difference of the GVWR of the truck. GM and Dodge rate each drivetrain for a CGWR and then use the ave curb wt to determine tow ratings.

Now when it comes to TTs they want to make them look as light as possible in the brochures so what do you do - don't weigh the options microwaves, awnings, etc all add weight - and never include LPG or batteries as those are not factory supplied. Also you do not have to weigh every TT, just the first one you build - and if you are very clever you can simply calculate the weight from the weight of the materials used.

The truth is you will never know what your rig weighs loaded and ready to camp unless you take it to a scale and weigh it. I had a TT once that was within 50lbs of its GVWR - with just my gear - no freshwater. Others had the same problem with the same brand. I got rid of it after a few short years.

As for the TVs I have had - most have had CGWRs in the 8,000-12,000lb range my latest is 18,000lbs. The last TV/TT combo I had matched an AF 22H with a 99 Tahoe - in ready to camp (no water) mode with every one onboard it tipped the scales around 12,500 - and was a beast on the road. It did take me almost 1/2mi to reach 55, hills were taken in 2od or 1st at 25MPH. I did not speed downhill as I was too afraid of the tail wagging the dog. Now I have the 2500HD with the same AF22H and things are really nice again, I can easily pick up speed as needed, stop easily as well, and can easily climb hills in 4th doing 55-60 or more.

I guess I agree with the adage that you can't have too much tow vehicle. I also know that most engineers design things with safety factors, however it is often marketing that allows those safety factors to be used to competitive advantage in a game of oneupsmanship.
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Old 10-01-2009, 02:43 AM   #35
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Merits of 3/4 vs. 1 ton tow vehicle

Cobikeman

Haven't heard from you lately. Just wondering what truck and trailer did you end up buying?
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Old 10-01-2009, 10:38 AM   #36
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cobikeman,

If you read my posts under "How to Stop Rear Axle Bounce" and "How much weight can I pull safely" you will see that I am using a Chevy Silverado Duramax/Allison 2500HD crew cab short bed to pull significantly more than what you are describing. (Note my modifications - air bags, firmer shocks, and higher rated tires). Regarding handling of the combo, I don't feel any appreciable difference between the current fiver and the previous one that weight about 3,500 pounds less (except for the harmonic rear end bounce I got when driving over some highway bridge abutments. But I attributed that to worn out OEM shocks that I replaced with Rancho 9000XL's to my satisfaction). I recently towed my 21,500 combination up, down and around steep grades in Montana, one day with substantial side winds, and never felt out of control, nervous, or that the trailer was "pushing" or "pulling" me all around. I have never pulled with a dually, so I have no idea how it would compare, but I see no need for one based on my experiences.

With all that said, keep in mind that I have been called "stupid", "ignorant", and essentially called a "liar" on this forum.
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Old 10-02-2009, 11:28 AM   #37
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I have never pulled with a dually, so I have no idea how it would compare, but I see no need for one based on my experiences.

With all that said, keep in mind that I have been called "stupid", "ignorant", and essentially called a "liar" on this forum.
I had a 2500 when I bought my fiver. I towed several times with it before the new truck came in. No comparison in the difference of stability in the rear end and the 2500 had air bags and good shocks. Also would note the 4.10 rear end in the Dodge does increase the ratings.

Now, no one on THIS forum would call you a liar - - it is that OTHER forum where they do that when you call their bluff. Everyone on this forum is polite.

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Old 10-04-2009, 01:58 AM   #38
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Fiverbob,

In what way does a dually increase the stability of the rear end? I recognize that one would think that a wider stance and four tires on the road rather than two would provide more "stability", but how does one really feel it? I have pulled my two fifth wheels a total of 25k miles or so, several times over the Siskiyou Mountains in Northern California, and recently in the mountains of Western Montana with a very stiff side wind, and I have yet to notice what I would consider "instability". I have read how a fifth wheel "pushes" and "pulls" a 2500, but the only push and pull I have noticed is chucking, and I reduced that significantly by getting a MoreRyde pinbox.

Maybe I would understand the better feeling one gets with a dually if I hooked one up to my Cypress and gave it a test drive, but never having driven a dually I guess I just don't know what I am missing. Bottom line, the wife and I will continue to enjoy our ride in the 2500 with ignorant bliss.

Regarding a 4.10 rear end vs. a 3.73, I was at first concerned whether a 3.73 was low enough to pull 22,000 GCWR off the line (Chevy says the 06 2500 HD Duramax/Allison can handle 22,000 GCWR). However, when I researched the load limit of the Allison 6 speed I have, I found that Allison lists it as 27,000 pounds. So apparently Allison and Chevy decided there is no need for a 4.10. Fine with me; the 20 highway mpg I get unloaded (11-12 mpg loaded) with the Duramax/Allison sure beats the 12 mpg (7-8 mpg loaded) I got with my old gas 460 Ford with a 4.10.
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Old 10-04-2009, 02:13 AM   #39
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I don't know if it is the wider stance, or less sidewall flex, or what but it is night and day different.

My 3500 SRW towed my 30' toyhauler fine, but when I got the dually (preparing to get a big 5th wheel) I towed the same trailer with it and there is a huge difference. The SRW hanled it fine, but I found that after a long haul up an uneven narrow and winding mountain road I was much fresher.

It tracks better, feels more solid, and is just more relaxing to drive.

Even the 40' one I have now is a pleasure to tow with the dually. The 5th wheel I have now would have exceeded the tire and rear axle weight ratings of the SRW truck by quite a bit.
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Old 10-04-2009, 06:42 AM   #40
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merits of 3/4 ton vs. 1 ton vehicle

we own a 2ooo f250 4x4 4door sortbox loaded that we pull our 2006 314 bhs cougar its gvwr is 11,860 and i know i have the trailer loaded heavier then that, pulls just fine,i also own a 2006 f350 dually 4x4 4door long box i pull my 40 ft Anderson goose neck.we started using the 350 because of the ride while pulling the camper. just seems to be more room and comfort. the 2000 7.3 gets a lot better fuel millage than our 06. we use them both for daily drivers. we are moving to fla. and in 6mos im going to sell the 06 350 and my Anderson trailer. wont need them anymore. right now we are camped at KOA in Mims fla looking for a new house.
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Old 10-04-2009, 11:25 AM   #41
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[QUOTE=Vulcangw;
Maybe I would understand the better feeling one gets with a dually if I hooked one up to my Cypress and gave it a test drive, but never having driven a dually I guess I just don't know what I am missing. Bottom line, the wife and I will continue to enjoy our ride in the 2500 with ignorant bliss.

[/QUOTE]


You really hit the nail on the head. Many of us HAVE made the change to a bigger rig and know what we experienced. In my case about 45 years ago I started with a car and a 15' TT. When I got a 1/2T PU I said no more cars for TV’s. Since I have had 3/4Ts and now a dually. The difference has been similar in each case. I don’t doubt for a min. that going to a 4500/5500 would also be better. IMHO more rubber on the road means more friction with the road therefore big trucks and/or wind can't move you as easy.
I see driving over loaded akin to driving 10mph under the speed limit on an icy road, losing control and getting a ticket for driving too fast for conditions.
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