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Old 06-05-2005, 12:09 PM   #43
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Hitchhiker:
Hey Matt,

It's great to see you posting on iRV2 again, we've missed you. Are you back in Indiana?

It seems as if the DOT isn't interested in the manufacturers GVWR and GCWR, they seem to focus on tagged weight and obvious stuff that's not working such as the lights, brakes, etc. that you mentioned. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>


Were in Montana now hopefully for good. Things went sour in Wisconsin. No work to be found except in the big cities and niether of us will do that gig. As far as DOT goes he did check the gross of the truck which was right at 12K and trailer had the balance which we were at MFG's ratings on both. He was not concerned with Combined ratings though. Trailer brakes are responsible for the trailer load and same for the truck.
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Old 06-07-2005, 08:19 AM   #44
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content"> </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Posted December 12, 2004 11:12 AM
Or come to WA where there aren't classes of licenses until you get to commercial or something similar.

"I have a 35' HR Alumalite and pull it with my 03 Ram 2500. The length of the trailer does not matter, it is the weight. My trailer is rated at 7k pounds, has two 3500lb axles under it so I am way under my allowed weight."

You must have that thing full of helium. My 96 Alumalite is 32' long (3' shorter than yours) and weighs in at over 9,000 lbs. fully loaded. It has a 10K GVWR. I wonder why my shorter TT is more than a ton heavier <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content"> </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I don't know why your 96 weighs more than my 87? My GVWR is 7K, I have no slides,(the reason I bought a new trailer, this ones for sale). I don't know what it actually weighs as I have never weighed it. It is sitting in storage, empty, waiting for someone new to enjoy it. John
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Old 06-15-2005, 11:14 AM   #45
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Utah web site spells it out this way: if the gross combined vehicle weight rating is under 26,001, and not hauling hazardous materials, and not hauling more than 16 people, then the Utah class D license shall apply. If the gross combined vehicle weight is over 26,001, and the trailer is over 10,001, Class A (CDL) required. If the combined gross weight is over 26,001, and the trailer is under 10,001, class B (CDL)shall apply. No mention of length is made. Talk about confusing!
What happens if I am pulling my rig in FL? Does my Utah license allow me to drive there legally? I'm confused!
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Old 06-15-2005, 12:16 PM   #46
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by bobnkathleen hartman:
What happens if I am pulling my rig in FL? Does my Utah license allow me to drive there legally? I'm confused! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>This is generally covered by the principle of reciprocity. If you're legally licensed to drive in your home state, you're legal in those states through which you pass. Otherwise, we would have to carry 50 driver licenses. 46 states are members of the Driver License Compact, reportedly soon to be replaced by the Driver License Agreement.

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Old 06-17-2005, 07:20 AM   #47
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Thanks, Rusty, I thought that was the case, but I was not sure!
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Old 10-06-2005, 11:02 AM   #48
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Yep Florida! Operation of any vehicle with a GVWR of 8,000lbs or more is required to have a class "D" non-comerical license. Cost the same as a regular class "E" but you have to answer more questions on the written test. <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Don in E Texas:
The rating for most any model 3/4 or 1 ton PU is 20,000 pounds -- that is the CGVWR ---- truck plus rating of trailer. Note the total amount is under the magic number of 26,000 pounds. You can drive any PU with just a regular drivers license in any state.

If the vehicle has a GCVWR over 26,000 pounds and you pull a trailer with a rating under 10,000 pounds (like a motorhome pulling a car) you need a Class B license. Note that you do not need to pull a trailer when you are given the drivers test to obtain a Class B license - but you are allowed to pull a trailer rated under 10,000 pounds - just like you are allowed to pull a trailer behind the family auto w/o special license or testing.

If the vehicle has a GCVWR over 26,000 pounds and you pull a trailer with a rating over 10,000 pounds, you need a Class A license - and you do need to pull a trailer rated over 10,000 pounds to take the drivers portion of the test.

Does not apply to all States as some chose to ignore offering NON-CDL drivers license and allow folks to drive their 40,000 pound rated motorhomes with a regular drivers license - and some States offer Non-CDL Class A and B for RV'ers, farmers, etc.

If you got a Class A license driving a PU truck, the examiner I feel is wrong. Just answer the question: can you drive my truck? . if you have the license you should be able to.

The example that Rick offers from PA drivers manual just does not make any sense. "Tow vehicle rated at 11,000 pounds" etc. As I've said, PU's are rated at 20,000 pounds; where did the 11,000 pound figure come from, and is it GVWR, or CGVWR??? The other part of his manual makes sense and is the same as Texas, NC, and a bunch of other states.

There are 50 States and the laws do vary ---- but I've yet to see any State that requires special license to drive a 3/4 or 1 ton truck.

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Old 10-06-2005, 12:57 PM   #49
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The weight issue is alive and well...every state and for that matter every province as well...It comes down to the reciprocy agreements amongst all states and provinces..If you are legal where YOU LIVE, you are legal where I LIVE ...or we would all be like Uhaul and Schneiders and licence our trucks in a state that has little or no restrictions and be legal everywhere...
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Old 10-06-2005, 08:00 PM   #50
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by CoastalDav:
I think the biggest concern with pulling a bigin like decribed herein with a 2500 type truck, no mater who's it is, is the loss of a rear tire at highway speeds. A 3500 can survive that. A 2500 may end up jack knifed as the pin weight pushes the truck in the direction of the blowout.

Dave </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Part of what you say is true only if you have a DUALLY. There are alot of SRW 3500's out there, I know I drive one and mines is also a SB. If you have a blowout, it won't matter as much doing 65 pulling 10k going down the road. It's going to be UG & LEE. As others have stated in most cases it will be over the legal weight of truck and just NOT safe.
People like that should send out messages to everyone else so we can get off the road and be safe while they are not using just plain common sense.
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Old 10-07-2005, 06:03 AM   #51
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I'm a little confused with your remarks about single wheel shorties pulling large trailers. If a short bed truck pulling a large trailer has a flat at 65mph on the rear (right rear) the truck will fall to the right, and if the road has a large camber in it, it will be worse.
The pin weight will fall to right side and does have a good chance of pushing the truck around.

I have a friend with a Carraige "Cari Lite" with a 3500 Dodge that caught a nail in one of the rears and drove it about 100 miles towing the trailer, before I pointed out to him he had a flat.

If personal preference is a SRW Shortie for towing, you will be the one at the wheel if it happens. If I had to tow with a SRW I would put
G Rated tires back there.

Dave
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Old 10-09-2005, 12:49 PM   #52
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There are many mods you can make to increase the safe higher weight ability of a tow vehicle.
eg. Better brakes,better automativ trans.,better tires with higher rating, exhaust brake, more springs, air bags, adjustable shocks,etc.
I have done all of these mods. because I now have a heavier 5er. I know the truck is capable and so am I(old truck driver).When my 2500 was stock, pulling a lighter trailer, the combination felt less safe than what I have now.
I had one RR blowout on the truck, I was at gross or slightly over, without any problem.
When you see me on the road, don't judge me unsafe.
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Old 10-11-2005, 09:28 AM   #53
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About 8 months ago I saw a 1997 Dodge CTD Dually for sale in California. It had been stretched to a full size crew cab and looked like what the now Mega Cab looks like in the rear. I wanted that truck and almost bought it.

I found out that the Combined Max weight on that truck for 97 was 16,900 lbs. I needed 21,500 lbs. I tried to look at what was needed to be done to increase the combined towing weight. Could have done it with no problems. The problem was, no one including dodge would re-rate the truck for what I was looking for.
My insurance company basically said Dodge would have to re-rate it as well.

So no mater what you've done to your truck to increase its towing ability, it remains rated as it was when built. If one were to be in an accident, the first thing the other side will say is he was over weight. I've seen this happen in Florida, not to me but to a friend. He was not overweight or at fault in the accident but the other side was trying to blame him claiming he was overweight and could not control the vehicle.

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Old 10-11-2005, 02:12 PM   #54
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If you want to pull over weight, it is your business. But by modifing the truck, you are not increasing it's weight rating, unless you can get an agency/manufacturer to certify the new ratings.

By adding springs, shocks, bigger tires, chips, larger exhaust etc, you are helping the truck, but not increasing the rating.

By weighing the truck and trailer, you know exactly where you are on weight. From there it is your decision. If we keep on having dealers sell these 40' trailers to folks w/ 3/4 ton trucks, the government will eventaully step in and regulate the RV ratings and loads like on the big rigs.

I keep telling people they make big trucks for big trailers and then they make little trucks fro little trailers. So get the truck that is required to pull the load safely.

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Old 12-10-2007, 09:53 AM   #55
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Hi All, if you are licesed in Tx. read page eight(8) of the Tex. drivers manual under exemptions.
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Old 12-10-2007, 08:00 PM   #56
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There is a very informative sticky on the towing board, on another large RV forum, written by a retired State policeman, about weights, overloading, and the law.
In a nutshell, the only legal limits are axle limits like big trucks, and the amount of weight your truck is plated to gross.(my interpretation) He continues to say that he is not addressing safety or practicality, just the laws.
I think if more and more folks ignore manufacturers ratings, our government will step-in to do a better job.
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