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Old 12-02-2011, 11:13 AM   #29
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I am worried about whether the truck was used to pull a sled, or to drag. Ya know. I'm trying to work with them right now on the tranny. We'll see.
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Old 12-02-2011, 11:19 AM   #30
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Wish me luck, folks!

I found a Dodge 2500 SLT, 4x4, with 150k miles and a 5.9 Cummings for under 20k. Going to take a look at it tonight. I just need to add some extras (like side steps and front bar, and a brake controller. Going to check it out thoroughly and make sure it wasn't "bomb'd" as advised.

I spoke to my father who advised that I look into an Edge unit that will monitor power and performance. He said they can help when towing by telling you how temps are, etc.

I thank everyone. If we get it, I'll get some pics for you. Here's to hoping it's the one. Its exhausting work looking for the perfect fit.
We don't know what year you are looking at but if it has a 354 rear end, just walk away.That is geared to high for towing. BTDT. 410 makes a good tow rig. I had the same year and model with those rear ends and didn't loose any fuel milage with the 410.
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Old 12-02-2011, 11:34 AM   #31
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Wow, that's a real find! If it wasn't RED, it'd be a great deal!
I am almost tempted to try it out. I had a 96 powerstroke that got a flat 21 mph loaded, unloaded, solo, towing, hiway, or city. Wish I had kept it.
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Old 12-02-2011, 11:37 AM   #32
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I am worried about whether the truck was used to pull a sled, or to drag. Ya know. I'm trying to work with them right now on the tranny. We'll see.
For the miles and year the truck has been driven! My '05 only has 90,000 miles and I drive it as a dailly driver. If it was me, I would look for evidence of truck camper tiedowns, a fifth wheel hitch, or some other noticable attributes that the truck was used more or less for what it was intended for. Sled pulling or major power enhancements from the engine would probably be disqualifying reasons for me.

Also, if you could get to the original owner somehow and ask what he/she used the truck for that might go a long way to helping your decision. All in all, the model year is good, get the 3.73 gears for all around driving or the 4.10's for heavy towing. The engine, stock, has enormous power so you will have no issues with that.

I would keep looking and try to find one with around 100,000 miles if that fits the bill for you.
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Old 12-02-2011, 02:57 PM   #33
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Dually

Keep in mind that if you buy a dually you'll have a huge problem finding a car wash for a dually. And the fenders are a PITA. Don't do too well off road.
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Old 12-02-2011, 03:43 PM   #34
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The pin weight of your towable RV will determine whether or not you need a dual rear wheel (DRW) truck. The pin weight capacity of a given truck is the truck's GVWR minus the laden curb weight (LCW) of the truck with all options, accessories, driver, passengers, cargo, hitch, etc. If one insists on a SRW truck, then that automatically limits the pin weight/total weight (and, accordingly, the size) of the RV to be towed.

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Old 12-02-2011, 05:30 PM   #35
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Wow...

You guys are awesome!

So much info. This is DEFINATELY the right place.

Well the Dodge has had a 5th wheel in it. The bed is empty now, but you can see where it was mounted. I need to walk around it during day light and check it out.

I feel like if they can work out a deal on this tranny, if would be a good truck. Seems to be a much better choice than a 6.4 Ford 4x4 F250 I was looking at.
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Old 12-02-2011, 06:18 PM   #36
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2006 model.

I actually thought about buying an ext warranty on the thing and letting them fix it because I don't have cash laying around to fix things like this atm.
They'd say it was a "preexisting condition" (they'd be right too) and deny coverage.
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Old 12-03-2011, 10:15 AM   #37
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From what I understand That's one of the weak points with Dodge. Every manufacture has a problem somewhere.
Ford has the same problems with the automatic transmissions. I just paid to have a new tranny placed in my Ford 250 power stroke. I took good care of the tranny monitoring the temp, replacing the fluid and filter every year. It strained while backing up with a load and blew the tranny. So if your tranny strains under a load make sure you change to 4 wheel drive low, even if your on blacktop.
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Old 12-03-2011, 09:23 PM   #38
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... Jayco 28-30', ... We plan to tow this from Texas to Alaska. ...My problem is what to use to tow it...
A Jayco Flight with model numbers beginning with 26 is probably what you want. The 26 in the model number is the approximate interior length. The overall length is closer to 29 to 30 feet.

Stay away from the ultra-light and lightweight models. The AlCan highway will shake them apart. Go with the Jay Flight.

Jayco 2012

The model 26BH is a "bunkhouse" model without a slide, and GVWR of 7,500 pounds. It should hold up good on the long rough road to Alaska. Don't turn up your nose at a bunkhouse model. If you have kids, it a good place for them. If you don't have kids, it a good place to haul "stuff".

The model 26RKS has one big slide and 8,400 pounds GVWR. Yeah, the slide is heavy and adds complexity to the trailer. If you can get by without the slide, you'll have a much better chance of arriving in Alaska with an intact trailer.

So assuming the 26BH, what do we need to tow it with? 7,500 pounds loaded trailer weight with 12 percent hitch weight = 900 pounds hitch weight.

Let's consider my '99.5 F-250 diesel CrewCab, which has the same towing specs as any '99-'04 Ford diesel CrewCab. GCWR of 20,000 pounds, and my wet and loaded tow vehicle grossed about 8,000 pounds before tying onto the trailer. So that one has enough oomph to easily tow a 7,500 pound TT. GVWR of 8,800 pounds so max hitch weight of 800 pounds. Oops! 900 pounds of hitch weight will probably overload the suspension of a '99-'04 F-250. Not by much, but why not buy enough truck to start with?

So if you want an old Ford diesel, then get at least an F-350 with single rear wheels (SRW). They have a GVWR of 9,900 pounds, which will handle your TT with room to spare.

Move up to an '05 or later, and Ford increased the GVWR of the F-250 CrewCab diesel to 10,000 pounds. So the '05-up Ford diesel is plenty of truck for that trailer.

For years, Dodge has had a wonderful diesel engine wrapped up in a POS truck. GM has a decent diesel engine after about 2004, and a soft and comfy interior. Ford shines in the rough stuff - and much better comfort than the MOPAR, but maybe not quite as comfy as the GM on smooth highways. Since you're buying used, be sure you drive any potential tow vehicle for a bunch of miles before you commit your cash.

But you can also consider a "full-size" SUV, such as a Chevy Suburban or Ford Expedition. Sticking with Ford as the example, the 2005 Expedition 4x4 with the heavy duty tow pkg had a tow rating of 8,600 pounds. The factory tow rating is a wet dream, but that SUV should be able to tow a 7,500 pound TT with no big problems. Even better was the 2005 Excursion. The 5.4 engine didn't have enough oomph for your trailer, but the X-Car had engine options of a V-10 gasser or a 6.0L diesel. By 2005 model year, Ford had pretty much fixed the bugs in the 6.0L engine, so I'd probably buy one. The V-10 gasser is a powerhouse, but a gas drinker. You would probably love the V-10 Excursion if you could ignore the MPG.

The big problem with the big SUVs is they don't have much extra payload capacity. You cannot load them down with people and luggage and have any payload capacity left for hitch weight. But if you haul your "stuff" in the trailer and not in the SUV, and you don't have more than a sweetheart and a couple of rug rats for passengers, you could probably tow a 7,500-pound TT without exceeding the GVWR of the tow vehicle.

What would I do? My tow vehicle is in my sig. It will easily tow a 7,500 pound TT.
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Old 12-03-2011, 10:00 PM   #39
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For years, Dodge has had a wonderful diesel engine wrapped up in a POS truck.
Since brand wars are NOT permitted on iRV2, suffice it to say that I've been towing with Dodge duallies since 1996, and I do NOT share your opinion.

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Old 12-03-2011, 10:49 PM   #40
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Stay away from ford and their diesels,my last truck 2005 F-350 crew cab dually 6.0 powerstroke with all the whistles and bells, gave up the egr cooler, oil cooler, turbo, head gaskets all after only 64k miles and just over 5 years, so warranty was done. Some will say it was chipped, wrong, bone stock , always maintained per Ford.I also thought this would be the last truck I would buy, boy was I ever wrong. There's a reason that Ford has class action lawsuits against them for these pos's. The later 7.3s I think, were pretty good, just my 2 cents,but not a ford fan.
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Old 12-04-2011, 03:20 AM   #41
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Once you find the right truck to pull your trailer. If you are planning extended travels, especially an Alaska trip may I also suggest you look into an auxiliary fuel tank. Our previous RV was a 30' Jayco 5th wheel that we pulled with a '98 Dodge Ram 2500 quad cab. We added a Banks power pack and an in bed 96 gallon auxiliary fuel tank. At only 35 gallon fuel capacity with the original stock fuel tank we were always looking for the next fuel stop. The additional capacity made traveling any distance much less stressful. Good luck in your planning and future RV adventures, and welcome to the forum. Visit and post often.
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Old 12-04-2011, 06:23 AM   #42
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If you are planning extended travels, especially an Alaska trip may I also suggest you look into an auxiliary fuel tank.
Good idea, but only if your tow vehicle has enough payload capacity to handle the load of both hitch weight and the weight of the extra fuel and tank. Most SRW diesel pickups don't have enough payload capacity to handle the hitch weight of a big RV trailer, much less the 1,000 or so pounds for 100 gallons of diesel in a tank in the bed of the truck.

So if you have a dually for a tow vehicle, then add the auxiliary fuel tank in the bed. But if your tow vehicle has single rear wheels (SRW), weigh the wet and loaded truck and trailer before you decide to add an auxiliary fuel tank. Add the weight on the two truck axles, and compare that weight to the GVWR of the truck. If you have a little wiggle room before you run out of payload capacity, then maybe add a combo tool box/auxiliary fuel tank that holds only 30 or so gallons of extra fuel. Diesel weighs about 7.3 pounds per gallon, so that extra 30 gallons of fuel would weigh about 220 pounds, not counting the extra weight of the combo tank/box, and should give you an extra 250 miles or so before you have to find a truck stop.
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