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Old 12-06-2011, 12:32 PM   #57
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For instance, I was joking around with a friend this morning who told me that his 2010 Dodge had to be serviced for the rear fender falling off. Astonishing. Even more to learn that it was an "oops" from Dodge and the fender (which had come off on the highway) had not been fully secured. Dodge blames the dealership, the dealership blames Dodge. Either way, you gotta wonder what they're doing that they don't noticed the bolts holding the fender on are plastic and not metal. I didn't ask to many details.
I'm sorry, but I'm really struggling to understand this one. The rear fenders on a SRW 4th generation (2010 and up) Dodge Ram are metal and an integral part of the bed. Same thing for the rear fenders on a DRW 4th generation. They are metal and an integral part of the bed - no "bolt on" plastic blister fenders are used on the DRW trucks. I cannot understand how the rear fender could possibly fall off when it's welded (not bolted) to the bed.

My 1996, 2002 and 2011 Dodge trucks have been some of the most well-built, reliable vehicles I've ever owned. No squeaks, rattles, or any other bodywork problems. If they weren't reliable, I wouldn't keep buying them.

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Old 12-06-2011, 01:46 PM   #58
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Man, I can not even tell you how it happened. All I know is what he told me. That it fell off on the highway, he picked it up and tossed it in the bed, and went to the dealership the first chance he got. He said some "bolt" was plastic, had sheared, and casued the right edge to drop and drag the fender off. He told me the dealership blames the manufacturer and vice versa. They fixed it. But it still makes me cock my head like my lab does when I stare at her.
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Old 12-06-2011, 02:08 PM   #59
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The only thing that I can figure out is that he's talking about the plastic inner liners that fit inside the rear fenders. These are splash and rock shields that prevent water and debris from being thrown up under the actual metal fenders. These are held in place by plastic push pins (a common method of retaining plastic trim pieces that is used by ALL manufacturers, not just Chrysler). If, as in the case of our truck, his truck is a dually, the mud flaps required in our state (Texas) are installed inside these splash shields by the dealer before the truck is delivered to the customer. If the dealer missed reinstalling some of these push pins when he installed the mud flaps, I can see how a plastic inner liner could become detached. That's a whole different matter than a rear fender falling off, though.

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Old 12-06-2011, 02:23 PM   #60
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He could be over-stating it. I don't know. I've never had a fender fall off unless hit. But I am thinking that maybe I am thinking fender like the bumper and he meant the actual fender. Who knows... My old Grand Am was held together with push pins, luck, and duct tape and it never had a fender fall off.


Well I got my list down to three vehicles, all very different. There's a gas 5.4 with a 3.73 that will tow the least amount, has the least miles, but it's a Ford and my wife thinks she likes it because she can get gas anywhere and she's intimidated by diesels. I think once she drives one, she'll never give it back. She nearly kept my Harley and don't even think about trying to get my .357 S&W from her or my FNP-45. You'll get hurt!

Then there's a Ford with a 6.0 diesel, just over 100k miles, also gorgeous. On my mind is the PSD engine and thinking about the cold weather issues, but then my friends tell me get a 'diesel engine survival kit' that has all "your stuff in it" and I will apparently be fine. I trust them, and you folks. Diesel should last forever, or at least until the upcoming civil war in America.

Then there's a Dodge with a 5.9 Cummings, not a mega cab, but 4x4. More mileage. Good shape.

I have to wait til this weekend to do anything. Will let you know.
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Old 12-06-2011, 02:26 PM   #61
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If you find you need the 4 x 4 you will also find out you shouldn't be on the road with a trailer. You can get going, but stopping is what I had trouble with.
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Old 12-06-2011, 04:08 PM   #62
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I my self like the older, and bigger trucks. I don't need a million HP to tow with.
My 94 Ford (F-700) with is factory 190HP Cummins does just fine.
Unless you really like the new stuff, I'd look at the 94-97 dodges that have the cummins AND a stick shift if you really want a trans to last.
Or go to the medium duty truck level like I did.
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Old 12-06-2011, 10:40 PM   #63
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Tonight as I went to check out one Ford, I happened upon another two;

2006 F350 SRW, 152k miles. 6.0 PSD, 4x4, Crew Cab. XLT. Good condition. Has nerf bars and a front guard. 8' bed. $15k.

2006 F250, 82k miles, 6.0 PSD, 4x4, Crew Cab. Lariat. Very Good condition. Side steps. 6.5' bed. $21k.

Which one would you buy? Wife wants the $15k one because even with high miles, our payments would stay about the same and the truck is "HUGE" and she's named it "Maximus" already.

My argument is that the extra 5k buys a better equipped truck and one that is still "big".


This is why I hate going to check these trucks out. I keep finding something else. lol.

The Dodge was gone. I had called them yesterday and for some reason they took it to auction today and sold it.

The dealer with the 5.4 gas has called twice asking me to come check it out. I fear that if I do, I will get hung up on the comfort and forget about the motor.

I feel like I am giving birth. I should start a blog. Haha... "The Woes Of Buying A New Truck"
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Old 12-06-2011, 11:05 PM   #64
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If you find you need the 4 x 4 you will also find out you shouldn't be on the road with a trailer. You can get going, but stopping is what I had trouble with.
I have not found that to be a problem. I chain up the trailer and the rear of the truck and have had no problen in snow.
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Old 12-06-2011, 11:07 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by Brembo View Post
Tonight as I went to check out one Ford, I happened upon another two;

2006 F350 SRW, 152k miles. 6.0 PSD, 4x4, Crew Cab. XLT. Good condition. Has nerf bars and a front guard. 8' bed. $15k.

2006 F250, 82k miles, 6.0 PSD, 4x4, Crew Cab. Lariat. Very Good condition. Side steps. 6.5' bed. $21k.

Which one would you buy? Wife wants the $15k one because even with high miles, our payments would stay about the same and the truck is "HUGE" and she's named it "Maximus" already.

My argument is that the extra 5k buys a better equipped truck and one that is still "big".


This is why I hate going to check these trucks out. I keep finding something else. lol.

The Dodge was gone. I had called them yesterday and for some reason they took it to auction today and sold it.

The dealer with the 5.4 gas has called twice asking me to come check it out. I fear that if I do, I will get hung up on the comfort and forget about the motor.

I feel like I am giving birth. I should start a blog. Haha... "The Woes Of Buying A New Truck"
May be the salesman is having trouble selling the 5.4
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Old 12-07-2011, 09:30 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by Brembo View Post
Tonight as I went to check out one Ford, I happened upon another two;

2006 F350 SRW, 152k miles. 6.0 PSD, 4x4, Crew Cab. XLT. Good condition. Has nerf bars and a front guard. 8' bed. $15k.

2006 F250, 82k miles, 6.0 PSD, 4x4, Crew Cab. Lariat. Very Good condition. Side steps. 6.5' bed. $21k.

Which one would you buy? Wife wants the $15k one because even with high miles, our payments would stay about the same and the truck is "HUGE" and she's named it "Maximus" already.

My argument is that the extra 5k buys a better equipped truck and one that is still "big".


This is why I hate going to check these trucks out. I keep finding something else. lol.

"
Does either Ford have the EGR deleted? When ever you decide on a Ford truck I'd buy a Scangauge II and plug it in to see what the temp delta is between the oil and water. If it's more than 15* don't buy it unless you want to spend around $3,000 to fix it.

With the EGR deleted the owner probably had problems and fixed them. I'd still use the scan gauge or have someone who knows about Fords check it out.

What happens with the 6.0 motor:
The EGR cooler plugs up and splits letting oil and water mix blowing up the motor. Delete it and no more problems there.

The oil cooler gets plugged up from the Ford gold coolant and left over casting sand and doesn't cool the oil. Flush the system good, then replace oil cooler and use CAT EL coolant with a coolant filter. Problems solved.

After the above fixes the 6.0 motor is as reliable as any. If the above hasn't been done you will wind up doing it and spending around $3,000. Ask me how I know....
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Old 12-07-2011, 11:31 AM   #67
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If you find you need the 4 x 4 you will also find out you shouldn't be on the road with a trailer. You can get going, but stopping is what I had trouble with.
I had an issue in the Bristol KOA, TN where they had laid down fresh 3/4" gravel on a relatively steep uphill grade. When I got onto it, the rear wheels started to loose traction. I switched to 4WD and was able to get thru it.

But if there is snow on the road, I will wait til it is gone, 4WD or not.
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Old 12-07-2011, 11:48 AM   #68
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I'm sorry, but I'm really struggling to understand this one. The rear fenders on a SRW 4th generation (2010 and up) Dodge Ram are metal and an integral part of the bed. Same thing for the rear fenders on a DRW 4th generation. They are metal and an integral part of the bed - no "bolt on" plastic blister fenders are used on the DRW trucks. I cannot understand how the rear fender could possibly fall off when it's welded (not bolted) to the bed.

My 1996, 2002 and 2011 Dodge trucks have been some of the most well-built, reliable vehicles I've ever owned. No squeaks, rattles, or any other bodywork problems. If they weren't reliable, I wouldn't keep buying them.

Rusty
My Dodge now has 90,000 miles and not one repair issue nor one day in service except routine maintenance. I can't figure out whether to blame the dealer or the factory for having no issues. So far, this truck is the most reliable vehicle I have ever owned, except for three BMW motorcycles and an airplane. ...........and it consistently gets 20 mpg or slighlty better on the highway not towing at a steady 65 mph.
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Old 12-07-2011, 07:59 PM   #69
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Does either Ford have the EGR deleted? When ever you decide on a Ford truck I'd buy a Scangauge II and plug it in to see what the temp delta is between the oil and water. If it's more than 15* don't buy it unless you want to spend around $3,000 to fix it.

With the EGR deleted the owner probably had problems and fixed them. I'd still use the scan gauge or have someone who knows about Fords check it out.

What happens with the 6.0 motor:
The EGR cooler plugs up and splits letting oil and water mix blowing up the motor. Delete it and no more problems there.

The oil cooler gets plugged up from the Ford gold coolant and left over casting sand and doesn't cool the oil. Flush the system good, then replace oil cooler and use CAT EL coolant with a coolant filter. Problems solved.

After the above fixes the 6.0 motor is as reliable as any. If the above hasn't been done you will wind up doing it and spending around $3,000. Ask me how I know....
I don't believe either has had the EGR deleted. My understanding is that with the EGR deleted, the truck will not pass inspections. Therefore an aftermarket EGR is needed (and alledgedly not hard to install).

Wasn't it here that someone said the EGR delete is if you don't need inspections, and that the 6.4 bolts are better, and that the STC is like a 1200.00 job? I thought I read all that here...lol
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Old 12-08-2011, 10:28 AM   #70
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I don't believe either has had the EGR deleted. My understanding is that with the EGR deleted, the truck will not pass inspections. Therefore an aftermarket EGR is needed (and alledgedly not hard to install).

Wasn't it here that someone said the EGR delete is if you don't need inspections, and that the 6.4 bolts are better, and that the STC is like a 1200.00 job? I thought I read all that here...lol
If your state has emission tests then you need the EGR to pass. I don't know of any aftermarket EGR coolers though.

I put in 6.4 banjo bolts and a blue spring because they are bigger and give you more fuel but that's not really required. The STC on later models do go bad and yes cost around $1,200 to fix.
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