Need Help Specifying a Ram 3500 to tow an Arctic Fox 29-5T

[PJinHawaii]

I put a deposit on a new Arctic Fox 29-5T. Now I need to start thinking about the right tow truck... Could use some advice.

The RV is:
- Dry Axle Weight (approx. Lbs.): 8853
- Dry Hitch Weight (approx. Lbs.): 2023
- Net Carrying Capacity: 4824
- Gross Dry Weight – Lbs.: 10876
- Gross Vehicle Weight (GVWR) – Lbs.: 15700

If I want a 20% safety margin I think that means I'm looking for something that will tow 18,840 lbs

I'm thinking a Dodge Ram 3500 crew cab, dually with 6.7L Cummins Diesel (HO), A6-AS69RC trans, and 3.73 axle ratio. I think that will give me a tow vehicle with:
- GVWR of 14000 lbs
- GCWR of 33,800 lbs
- max Trailer Weight rating of 25,020 lbs
- GAWR-Front = 6,000
- GAWR - Rear = 9,750
- payload = 5,690

Sound right so far?

Questions:
(1) I assume I need the long bed, not the 6.4 ft bed, right?
(2) Any other options I should make sure I get (oil cooler? etc.)
(3) Is the Ram 20k lb direct mount 5th wheel hitch (Cost $1075) a good choice?
(4) 180 amp or 220 amp Alternator?
(5) on the Cummins engine, what does the "(HO)" stand for? (only the trucks with the biggest tow ratings have the (HO) appended to the engine spec.)

Thanks for any advice...
PJ

[cfowler55]

I'm towing an 11k GVW. Fifth wheel with almost exact truck. 2017 RAM 4x4. Crew,dually,long bed,Aisin, 3.73. Couldn't ask for better from a power or stability aspect. Mileage is improving. 6k on truck and getting almost 11 towing in hills. Factory fifth wheel package is a definite. When I got mine the 25k was less than $100 more. And had a $1k rebate on accessories. I believe the HO is the higher torque designation (High Output) with Aisin tranny.

[450Donn]

The new 3500 SRWs will tow that fiver with ease. Dually is always better, but really will be overkill for fivers up to about 16,000 pounds. Please remember, dry weights are false information and not useable for anything but selling more than can be safely handled.
BTW a 3.42 rear end with the newer 6 speed autos really work well. And to save a few thousand, dont let the 68RFE scare you. It is really a good transmission. It has proven as reliable as the often touted Allison.

If I were building a new Ram, I would pick a 3500 SRW, 4.10 rear end, 68RFE auto, Laramie crew cab long bed, factory spray in bed liner, and long side step bars. A good hitch will cost you a grand installed, so thats probably a fair price.
HO= High Output = more HP and Torque to move that 30,000 pounds their capable of handling.

[cfowler55]

Mine is a base truck. Tradesman. Payload is 5615lbs per sticker. With the Aisin you pick up 100 ft.lbs. of torque over the Chrysler tranny plus better gear spacing. My opinion only. I suspect the extra torque does cost you fuel economy.

[CecilD]

Congratulations on your new trailer. I considered that same model, it's a beauty. I don't know how you are going to use it but even with all the tanks completely full you still have over 3,000# of cargo capacity. That is a lot for a 33' trailer unless you plan full time. Maybe you don't need to consider the full GVWR when specifying a truck.

Your trailer has a deeply scalloped front end so a long bed may not be necessary. Personally, I would still get a long bed as the space and longer wheel base offer advantages. Can't say on a new Ram but long bed trucks usually have larger fuel tanks. The trailer comes stock with a MorRyde pin box so potential chucking issues have been addressed. Many people on the forums have ordered the Ram with the factory puck system and have installed a B&W Companion hitch and have been very happy.

HO on Cummins engines means high output. You will get more HP and torque plus the Aisin tranny and other upgrades. I've seen many positive posts regarding the factory air suspension option. I'm sure someone with the Heavy duty options will chime in.

[tuffr2]

Ram has a few different tuned engines it uses. I think from 650 ft. lbs. of torque to 900 ft. lbs. HO is the 900 ft. lbs. of torque.

I maybe off a bit but that is the jest of the 'HO'. More HP and Torque out of the same 6.7 cummins engine.

I cut my weight limit between SRW and DRW at 15,000 lbs.

Look at the GVWR of a 3500 SRW vs a DRW. A typical SRW truck will have a GVWR of 11,300 - 11,500lbs. The truck with hitch will weigh 8,500lbs. That leaves you 3,000 lbs. you can add to the truck. Lots of 5th wheel pin weigh will eat up that 3,000lbs fast. By time you get in the truck the dog gets in and the wife (in that order) and your tools you will most likely be over the GVWR.

[Vette Racer]

If you are ordering, the rear "level air" is nice, keeps the truck level regardless of load and gives you an air ride assist in the rear.

[tuffr2]

Agree with Vette Racer, air level sounds like a real nice option. Also it is usually much better and cheaper to have the options added at the factory vs after market, like air level and 5th wheel hitch prep package. If you work with the dealership they will discount the hitch by 50% or so. (You never really know because they are making $$ on the truck but it felt good to get a so called discount on the hitch).

[mrgrayaz]

Originally Posted by tuffr2

I cut my weight limit between SRW and DRW at 15,000 lbs.

Look at the GVWR of a 3500 SRW vs a DRW. A typical SRW truck will have a GVWR of 11,300 - 11,500lbs. The truck with hitch will weigh 8,500lbs. That leaves you 3,000 lbs. you can add to the truck. Lots of 5th wheel pin weigh will eat up that 3,000lbs fast. By time you get in the truck the dog gets in and the wife (in that order) and your tools you will most likely be over the GVWR.

If you get the right SRW -rated payload is much higher then 3000lbs. My 2005 F-350 was 3640lbs, and my 2017 F-350 is rated 3702lbs. Hitch weighs 150lbs. down to 3550 usable then.

15k trailer? I'd pull it with a SRW no question....dually is overkill.

[rampowerwago]

I towed our 2017 29-5T with a 2017 Ram 3500 SRW CCLB. I was under every truck/towing limit and it towed and stopped as it was designed. The trailer was loaded for full timing with a washer/dryer but no gen.

If you're really worried about having 20% to your TV limits, why don't you just step up to a HDT now.....you'll probably end up with one in the future eventually, so why noy now?

[Cumminsfan]

Originally Posted by tuffr2

Ram has a few different tuned engines it uses. I think from 650 ft. lbs. of torque to 900 ft. lbs. HO is the 900 ft. lbs. of torque.

I maybe off a bit but that is the jest of the 'HO'. More HP and Torque out of the same 6.7 cummins engine.

I cut my weight limit between SRW and DRW at 15,000 lbs.

Look at the GVWR of a 3500 SRW vs a DRW. A typical SRW truck will have a GVWR of 11,300 - 11,500lbs. The truck with hitch will weigh 8,500lbs. That leaves you 3,000 lbs. you can add to the truck. Lots of 5th wheel pin weigh will eat up that 3,000lbs fast. By time you get in the truck the dog gets in and the wife (in that order) and your tools you will most likely be over the GVWR.

Most every Ram 3500 SRW I see on lots has a CCC of almost 4000 lbs. BTW the GVWR on a 2017 Ram 3500 4x4 CC LB is 12,300 lbs not 11,300+. Usually around 3800-3950 + lbs in the nicer trims. Add 200 lbs for a 5th hitch and you're left with 3600+ lbs for passengers and pin weight. I highly doubt the OP will add 1000 lbs to the pin weight on that 29-5T.

https://www.ramtrucks.com/assets/tow...ing_charts.pdf

[PJinHawaii]

Thank you for all the feedback on the truck. Very interesting and helpful information. Next issue is selecting a hitch. Looks like it's not as simple as I might have expected...

I was originally thinking I'd get the Ram factory 5th wheel towing prep and the Ram 20k direct connect hitch... but it turns out that the dealer I'm working with at this point doesn't stock trucks with those options because they also have an accessories and customization shop. So they are proposing aftermarket prep and hitch. I'm not closing the door on the whole deal, but just want to get a a price from then on an aftermarket hitch... but I'm practically illiterate on the pros and cons of 5th wheel hitches with ~19k + capabilities.

So I have some followup questions:
1. Can anyone point me to an educational resource to help me understand the pros and cons of the various 5th wheel hitch options?
2. if you were selecting a 5th wheel hitch for use with the truck mentioned in the original post above (Ram 3500, cummins, long bed, etc.) and the 5th wheel mentioned above (Arctic Fox 29-5T with GVWR of 15,700 lbs) What would you choose?
3. I'm see that there are some potential issues with the height of the hitch to insure that the 5th wheel does not contact the truck bed side rails. How do I know without having the truck and the 5th wheel together at the same time what sort of height I need my hitch to be at?

I sure wish I was on the mainland to look at hitches with my own 2 eyes... but that's just not an option at the moment.
PJ

[mrgrayaz]

No need for a slider for a long bed. I'd get the appropriate size hitch for the tow rating on the truck. If its ~20k, get a 20K hitch, if its 18K, get a 18k hitch.

Even though your current (planned) trailer is under 16K, I would not by default get a 16K hitch, THIS ONE may be 16k, but you may upgrade.....

Last note - stay away from "economy" or "bar" hitches, get one with dual jaws. MUCH Nicer. Check out the Curt A16 or Q20. Nice hitch, reasonable price...plenty of other good brands out there too, everyone will have their preference.

here is a dual jaw:



For an option to stay away from, check out the Curt E16. Its an "economy hitch" with a bar style latch. Noisy/chucky. Saves you like $150. Stay away from em.

Here is a slide bar jaw:


E-trailer.com is a very good source of info.

[rampowerwago]

I towed our 29-5t with an Anderson Ultimate hitch. I'll never go back to a regular 5th wheel hitch.