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Old 09-10-2015, 11:44 AM   #15
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Alright this is not going as planned and after serious investigation I have found what I wanted

This is what I know, now.
My new truck with class v hitch...I don't need wd. But I want to utilize my sway conto of my e2 hitch which relies on wd as friction. In order for me to get active sway control I would be taking away 1 very important factor in towing and that is tounge weight for stable tow.

I found adapters that mount to the hitch and allow devices like the Reese dual cam sway control with out needing wd.

New truck has tsc (trailer sway control) but that is reactive not proactive. It pulses opposite brake to counteract a sensed sway...and works pretty good, I tested it. But I am looking to have this set up so when I am tired the wife can drive who has minimal experience.

Now to change my question from the original

Are these dual cam sway control only units any good? I like the equalizer and e2 design...it's a no brained when you look at it and set up right, but I have never used a brake style sway control.
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Old 09-10-2015, 05:24 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wild Card View Post
Are these dual cam sway control only units any good?

By the phrase "dual cam sway control only" I assume you mean have adequate sway control without any weight distribution?

I have a Reese Strait-Line WD hitch with dual-cam sway control. I cannot see a way to hook it up without the spring bars riding on the cams. And with the spring bars installed, it is both a WD and sway control hitch. Without the spring bars, it is neither WD nor sway control.

The definition of a Class IV receiver is that it can handle tongue weight over 500 pounds. There is no industry-standard definition of Class V receiver, but many accept the definition of tongue weight "over 1,000 pounds". However, many so-called Class V receivers require a weight-distributing hitch to handle tongue weights over 1,000 pounds. With a weight-carrying hitch, they are a Class IV receiver.

Without knowing the specs of your receiver, you cannot assume that your receiver is a Class V with a WC hitch. Yeah, Ram calls it a Class V receiver, but it may be a Class V receiver only when used with a weight-distributing hitch.
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Old 09-10-2015, 08:51 PM   #17
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By the phrase "dual cam sway control only" I assume you mean have adequate sway control without any weight distribution?

I have a Reese Strait-Line WD hitch with dual-cam sway control. I cannot see a way to hook it up without the spring bars riding on the cams. And with the spring bars installed, it is both a WD and sway control hitch. Without the spring bars, it is neither WD nor sway control.

The definition of a Class IV receiver is that it can handle tongue weight over 500 pounds. There is no industry-standard definition of Class V receiver, but many accept the definition of tongue weight "over 1,000 pounds". However, many so-called Class V receivers require a weight-distributing hitch to handle tongue weights over 1,000 pounds. With a weight-carrying hitch, they are a Class IV receiver.

Without knowing the specs of your receiver, you cannot assume that your receiver is a Class V with a WC hitch. Yeah, Ram calls it a Class V receiver, but it may be a Class V receiver only when used with a weight-distributing hitch.
Sorry, meant the Reese friction sway control. The one that mounts to the small 1" balls on hitch and on tounge then you tighten down for sway control.

As far as the class v hitch, I will have to contact Ram to get the word. All I can find out about the factory hitch is it states 1800#s tounge weight and 17000#s tow capacity max...no mention of wd.

When you go to any mfg of class v hitch, for example curt mfg. They state 2400#s max tounge weight...regardless of wd or not. In other words the 2 rating are the same.

And no offense but what would the benefit be from having a class v hitch vs a class iv if it doesn't handle more weight?
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Old 09-10-2015, 10:10 PM   #18
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Regarding the tongue weight--my shank/head units will only support 600# without bars (1200# with bars). Also check your ball to ensure it is rated for 10k#
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Old 09-11-2015, 06:37 AM   #19
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New truck has tsc (trailer sway control) but that is reactive not proactive. It pulses opposite brake to counteract a sensed sway...and works pretty good, I tested it.
Any and all sway control is reactive. None of these systems do a lick until the trailer gets out of line with the truck, including the Hensley mechanism. The only way to have active sway control would be to drag the trailer brake if you think there will be risk of sway like passing a truck at highway speeds down grade.

The electronics work long before you feel it in the seat of the pants. The system can make hundreds of adjustments/corrections per second. They are very good from my experience.
My 2006 VW Touareg has the system and so does my 2012 Ram2500. I have never had sway.

That said, the only system I would get is the Hensley, but since you need something easy for the wife to handle, that's probably out.
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Old 09-11-2015, 06:47 AM   #20
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Regarding the tongue weight--my shank/head units will only support 600# without bars (1200# with bars). Also check your ball to ensure it is rated for 10k#
My ball and mount are 12k rated.
I found this at a Uhaul shop, of all places, for a whopping $30
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Old 09-12-2015, 09:57 PM   #21
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I pulled a 12K tt with my 2012 Ram DRW, I never saw a need for sway control behind the DRW truck, they handle differently than a SRW truck under load. Even with the new 6K axle weight limit on the front axle, when loaded, you will be at least 5500 lbs on the front axle WITHOUT a weight dist hitch. BTW our trucks have a class V hitch under them that utilize the new 2.5 inch insert. The class V is rated for 17,500 lb load. You need to get a quality FORGED insert that is rated for your load, and a 2 5/16 ball that is matched to your max weight as well. E-Trailer is one source for the correct ball and insert. I would not use the 2 to 2.5 inch sleeve that came with your truck at your load level, because the 2 inch inserts are not rated as high. I know that it is a pain to buy new inserts, but your camper is over the ratings of the 2 inch hardware.
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Old 09-13-2015, 09:22 PM   #22
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... but your camper is over the ratings of the 2 inch hardware.
Mine is a Class V solid shank 2" rated for 1,200/12,000lbs.

The forged ones are nice if you are towing heavy equipment and have a 2.5" receiver... I think they are all rated for 15,000lbs+. Not many travel trailers in that range, so unless you have a 2.5" receiver, there isn't much point in a forged ball mount.
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Old 09-14-2015, 05:52 AM   #23
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OP said that he had a NEW Ram 1 Ton. The new (13 & UP) Ford and Ram trucks both have Class V receivers factory installed that are 2.5 inch Square, but were supplied with a 2 in sleve to be able to use the old class IV hitches that are 2 in square. There was a year or 2 that someone made a Class V that was 2 inch square, but that is pretty much oddball stuff now. My 12 Ram had a Class IV 2 inch square hitch factory installed with a 12K rating.
These Class V hitches bring the ratings up to 17,500 lb for trailers, where the old class IV stopped off at 12,000 lb trailers. OP spoke of a having a TT Toy Hauler, and having to buy another truck to pull it, and my words were that I hate ADAPTERS, because they are just an added point for FAILURE in a hitch system or anything else. If you are going to buy a hitch, I would rather buy the heaviest one (which only costs a little more) than to buy one that is just enough, then buy the other one later when you trade next time! Used hitches are hard to sell, then they only bring pennies on the dollar!
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Old 09-15-2015, 05:58 AM   #24
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I pull with a CC DRW truck. What I did was upgrade my receiver to one that is rated for 18,000 trailer weight and 2500lbs weight carrying tongue weight. I then upgraded my ball mount to one that is rated for 1500lbs weigh carrying. my tongue weigh is around 1100lbs. I use a basic friction bar for sway control.
It's a very simple setup that works and it handles better than my 2500 with a full wd hitch setup.

I tried using the WD bars but the truck seemed to be too light in the rear with minimal pressure on the chains. It handles better with all the weight on the rear. It sort of "plants" the truck on the road. The truck sits level and doesn't even touch the top overload spring, so that was good enough for me. I try not to make things more complicated than they need to be
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Old 09-15-2015, 10:03 AM   #25
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"...I try not to make things more complicated than they need to be"

X2 !!
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Old 09-15-2015, 11:15 AM   #26
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I like simple
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Old 09-15-2015, 04:31 PM   #27
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Not to mention that the front axle weight does not have much room for weight to be transfered to it. I have the new 6000 lb front axle, and it scaled 5520 with 3/4 tank of fuel and me in the seat!
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Old 09-15-2015, 08:22 PM   #28
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I tried this afternoon. Loaded as would, wheelers, gen fuel, etc. No wd hitch pulled great. Tried the wd hitch at first too tight. After adjusting so it didn't raise the rear past factory ride I could pull them off by hand.

Had passage who knows towing watch trailer attitude. Put through a ringer and trailer stayed tight.

They are going on craigslist.
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