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Old 04-13-2005, 08:03 PM   #57
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Frankie
it seems to me that my tranny guage hovers at 175-180 on sustained freeway driving. if you took a 'quick drive' and it got to 125 i wonder if you let it warm long enough.
that guage has proved invaluable to me while towing. that is when i can approach the heat limits. i have a SuperChips but have it tuned to a mild setting. still though, on long steep hills or when backing up my trailer in long convoluted RV sites, I can see the temps rise. I change my tranny fluids if it pushes 210. I also installed the MagHytec tranny pan which significantly increased the oil held by the trans.
A lot of Ford owners have a story to tell about the 4R100 tranny. I don't want to be one of those AGAIN .
Mike
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Old 04-13-2005, 08:14 PM   #58
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I'm wondering why the truck manufactures don't include a gague since it appears to be very important. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
And SS, there's a $200 question alright.
I honestly think that an accurate guage(s) would be beyond what an aweful lot of drivers look for. And I think that the MOTOR COMPANY is very orrientated to shaving off as many $200's off the list price that they can. If they offered a guage package, a sunroof, or an improved stereo package, and you could only pick one of those, how many guages would they end up selling? I think you'd see a lot of guys driving trucks with their hair blowing in the sunroofs breeze and listening to loud country music before you'd see those guages being watched.
I put all three guages in and I don't have a sunroof and I prefer talk radio anyway. (Anyone know how to install a sunroof?)
Mike
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Old 04-14-2005, 11:37 AM   #59
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I went to work this mrning and the tranny guage did go up,so I know it is working.I am going to post pics soon ,or if someone wants me to e-mail them let me know.I did a couple no no's that should be told at the risk of called a dummy. I tapped the trnny pan in the wrong spot and had to run and get a new one at the cost of around $ 90.00 with fluid.I think the pan is too thin and may have a bung welded on sometime.
I used the wrong drill bit on the manifold,no biggy,it was smaller than what I needed.I spliced into the dimmer switch and guess what? there are 2 orange and white wires,I tapped the wrong on first,oh well,I am still happy I did it myself.I learned a lot and would do a buddy's truck if asked.
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Old 04-14-2005, 02:13 PM   #60
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Hi All:

Last year I had Banks Engineering install my PowerPack System on my 00 F250 7.3l. The power is incredible! I had spent alot of time researching all types of performance enhancement systems, and everything always came back to Banks- Gale Banks is known for alot of GOOD stuff, and I personally think it is the best method for adding punch to your vehile (especially diesels). As for the Pre/Post issue, here is what Banks says:

What is the best location for the exhaust gas temperature probe on a turbo-diesel?
This question is tougher to answer than you might think. There are two ways to measure exhaust gas temperature on a diesel engine: before the turbo (turbine inlet temperature); and after the turbo (turbine outlet temperature). When reasonably convenient, we recommend measuring the turbine inlet temperature, because this is the hottest"”and most meaningful"”temperature when evaluating the engine's performance. But when there's not a convenient place to put a probe in the turbine inlet side of the exhaust, the alternative is to mount the probe after the turbocharger, measuring the turbine outlet temperature. But this also presents a problem. The outlet of the turbo on the Duramax engine, for example, is shaped awkwardly, and the factory turbine outlet pipe is a very non-concentric shape to accommodate the outlet, so once again, there is not a good place to install a probe until about two feet after the outlet of the turbo. By going that far downstream, the integrity of the measurement is sacrificed.
Perhaps the best recommendation is to drill and tap a hole in one of the exhaust manifolds, and install a threaded pyrometer probe in there. Just be VERY CAREFUL about not getting any metal chips in the manifold, which would cause damage to the turbocharger. About the only way to be sure of this is to pull the manifold off of the vehicle to do the drilling and tapping.

I always let my engine cool down (my wife, now- that's a different story!), but it usually only takes 30-60 seconds to get down to under 400, which they recommend. As far as the top number, Banks says the system will start to shutdown power @ 1100, so getting above that is nearly impossible. Usually when it gets over 900, I find merely taking the overdrive off cools it down to under 700. Gearing is everything- I'm thinking about changing from 3.73's to 4.10's to help the situation.

Haven't had a lick of a problem yet with the system. Just now, I wish I had the BanksBrake! Oh well...next bonus check!
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Old 04-15-2005, 03:12 PM   #61
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Heres a link to some pics I took. I even have one of a bad screw up that maybe someone else can learn from

Gauge install pics
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Old 05-10-2005, 08:49 PM   #62
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first off, if a person tows with a diesel, the very first order of business should be to have good gauges installed. especially an egt gauge.
the 2 best ways to trash a nice diesel engine are to
1. shut it down before it cools to ~300 pre turbo
2. push it above 1300
the only way to monitor these very important issues is with a gauge.
very cheap insurance.
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