Originally Posted by dog lover
They asked wasn't the technology the reason I went for the Jeep?
Sales hype from overly-aggressive salesman. Ignore what they say and read your Owner's Guide and the stickers/labels on your Jeep. Then have an open mind as you compute the numbers.
My 2012 Ford has the same sort of automagic sway control built in that your Jeep has, and it was available in Fords for a few years before my 2012 was built. So MOPAR is not the only manufacturer of tow vehicles that has electronic sway control built into some of their new vehicles. However, the electronic sway control is not nearly as effective as the real thing that's included in the better weight-distributing hitch (WDH) systems, such as the Reese Strait-Line, the Husky CenterLine or the Equal-I-Zer. For one of my trailers I use a Reese Strait-Line dual-cam trunnion bar WD hitch, plus the tow vehicle includes that electronic sway control gizmo your Jeep salesman is so proud of. I've towed thousands of miles with that combo, and it works great.
Most manufacturer's of tow vehicles say a WDH is required
for any tongue weight over 500 pounds or any trailer weight over 5,000 pounds. But experienced old-timers like me will tell that you want a WDH for any trailer with tongue weight over about 200 pounds. Plus, if your trailer grosses 4,500 pounds, then with the average of 12.5% tongue weight, your tongue is going to weigh over 500 pounds.
So ignore your salesman and install a good WDH for that trailer.
The tow capacity of JGC is 6,500 lbs. according to the plate on the driver door.
That's another number you can ignore, and compute your own accurate number. The "tow rating" assumes an empty tow vehicle with nothing in it but a skinny driver. But you won't be towing with an empty Jeep. So to determine your real world tow rating, fill the Jeep with everything and everybody that will be in it when towing, including the head of your WD hitch. Go to a truck stop that has a certified automated truck (CAT) scale, fill up with gas, then weigh the wet and loaded Jeep. Subtract that weight from the GCWR of your Jeep and the answer is your real-world tow rating.
The GCWR is probably not included anywhere on your truck. It should be in the Owner's Guide, though.
But even the real world tow rating ignores the payload capacity of your Jeep. Subtract the weight of your wet and loaded Jeep from the GVWR of the Jeep and the answer is the max hitch weight you can have without overloading the suspension and brakes of your Jeep. If that max hitch weight is less than about 500 pounds, then your Jeep will probably be overloaded when on the road with that trailer in tow.
Rule of thumb: An SUV can either haul an SUV full of people and stuff, or tow a heavy trailer, but not both at the same time without being overloaded.
After all is said and done and you are on the road with your wet and loaded trailer ready to camp, then stop at a truck stop with a CAT scale, fill up with gas, and weigh the wet and loaded rig again. Compare the gross weight of the rig to the GCWR of your Jeep. Add the weights on the front and rear Jeep axles, and compare that total to the GVWR of the Jeep. If you don't exceed either the GCWR or the GVWR of the Jeep, then you're good to go.