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Old 08-15-2006, 05:35 AM   #1
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Just bought a new dodge 4x4 when I am hook up to the fifth wheel the truck and trailer is not level with each other the trailer is nose high. is this going to put to much load on the rear wheels of the trailer?
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Old 08-15-2006, 05:35 AM   #2
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Just bought a new dodge 4x4 when I am hook up to the fifth wheel the truck and trailer is not level with each other the trailer is nose high. is this going to put to much load on the rear wheels of the trailer?
Don
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Old 08-15-2006, 05:55 AM   #3
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I put Timbrens on my truck and on two trips out blew the rear tires on the fiver.(one on each trip) I lowered the hitch one notch and had no trouble since.
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Old 08-15-2006, 08:59 AM   #4
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With mine, I couldn't set it up for the trailer to ride level w/o ending up with very little clearance between the bed rails and underside of the 5th wheel.

I thought about lowering the rear of the truck, or welding longer hangers or a subframe on the suspension of the 5th wheel, but eventually ended up welding new perches on the axles and relocating them under the springs...

It ended up taller than it needs to be, but it rides level (with the hitch adjusted up) with lots of room above the bed, and it tows great.
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Old 08-15-2006, 09:24 AM   #5
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I had the same problem and I needed to adjust the hitch height. I was able to lower the hitch and maintain enough clearence above the bed rails. With the trailer nose high, you will be transferring some of the weight off of the front axle onto the rear axle. You want the trailer level while maintaining the safe clearance by the bed rails.
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Old 08-15-2006, 11:05 AM   #6
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On some makes of fivers you can flip the axel from the top of the hangers to the bottom and gain a few inches to cure this problem. This will get the back end of the trailer up and will not cause you any problems with the side rails. This is a common cure for this problem. JMHO

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Old 08-16-2006, 04:42 AM   #7
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Just a note of clarification. A lot of us may use the term "flipping axles" to describe relocation of the axles from above to below the springs. This description may lead one to assume that the axles are truly "flipped" 180 degrees and the existing spring mounts on the axles are used as is.

Such is not the case with most (if not all) axles. Trailer axles generally have camber built into them, and literally "flipping" the axle would result in incorrect camber and rapid tire wear. What is actually involved is relocation of the spring mounts on the axle(s) from a position at the bottom of the axle to a new position on top of the axle. Axle manufacturers such as Dexter offer over/under conversion kits to accomplish this modification.

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Old 08-16-2006, 05:55 AM   #8
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I had the same problem with my 97 Dodge 4x4 and an older alpenlite 5ver. Always seemed the weight was on the rear axle, especially on a turn seeing the rear tires at a slant. We finally sought out a 5th wheel that was alreay higher and came up with our 2000 crossroads all american. With the hitch set at the highest point the RV runs level as it should be. I might add that we are very pleased with the crossroads product. Expensive alternative but the right thing to do.

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Old 08-16-2006, 07:26 AM   #9
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Toterman (David):
On some makes of fivers you can flip the axel from the top of the hangers to the bottom On some makes of fivers you can flip the axel from the top of the hangers to the bottom and gain a few inches to cure this problem. This will get the back end of the trailer up and will not cause you any problems with the side rails. This is a common cure for this problem. JMHO

David </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I think my statement was pretty accurate.

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Old 08-16-2006, 07:31 AM   #10
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My statement wasn't directed at any post in this thread. Rather, newbies often misunderstand the term "flipping the axles" to mean that the axle is rotated 180 degrees, placing the spring mount on top of the axle, and the axle can be relocated as-is below the spring. Such is not the case - relocation of the spring mounts is required.

Just wanted to be sure that anyone reading this thread didn't get confused by the commonly-used "flipping the axles" terminology.

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Old 08-16-2006, 10:06 AM   #11
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Yeah, when I posted about having done the "flip" to my trailer, I deliberately didn't use the word "flip" and mentioned putting on new spring perches...

Anyhoo, if you flip the axle, make sure not to rotate the tube. Keep the arch in the middle facing up to maintain proper alignment.

I looked at the Al-Ko conversion kit, which basically bolts on and locates a perch on the top of the tube, but buying regular perches and welding them on was cheaper and seemed more secure (though I'm sure the Al-Ko kit is solid and safe).

I was a bit concerned about messing up the alignment if I had someone mess with the perches or weld in a subframe, and one of the things about the "flip" I liked was that it would be easy to reverse if I did't like the result.

It would be nice if all trailers came with spring perches welded both on top and on the bottom of the axles, so that the axle could easily be switched from above to below the springs. At the very least, they should all come with spring perches that have several holes.
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Old 08-19-2006, 06:54 PM   #12
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When I was shopping for a new 1T dually to tow our new 15Klb 5er I was offered a really great price on a 2005 Dodge 1T dually,4X4, big horn edition. I requested to drive the truck home to compare heights of truck and 5er. I did a lot of measuring and finally determined that to obtain the recommended 6" bed to overshot clearance the 5er would sit 9" high when hooked up. There was no plausible way to accomplish mating these two, so I regretfully passed up this really great deal. I wound up with a Chevy K3500 dually, 4X4, that without changing either the hitch or pin box sits about 3" nose high. That isn't much on a 40' 5er. Sure did like that Dodge CTD though___ _.
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