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Old 07-27-2014, 11:25 PM   #1
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One Time Towing from Dealer to RV lot...

Hello Everyone,

We have just purchased a new trailer and it's over the rating for my truck.

Question is this: I'm only towing the trailer from the dealer to a RV resort lot we've purchased, from there it will be parked and left (for many years we hope).

I cannot really purchase a new truck just for this one time towing, so any advice would be great. And "just don't do it" is not an option, I know I'm beyond my vehicles limitations a little, so practical advice is what's needed.

My truck is a GMC Sierra 1500, extended cab 4WD, 3.73 gears, 141.5 wheel base, has a transmission cooler, and 5.7L V8.

My trailer is a Puma with a dry weight (we won't be adding anything to it while towing) of 8703, and tongue weight of 758.

Again, any advice, and thank you in advance.
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Old 07-27-2014, 11:35 PM   #2
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No problem. Enjoy.
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Old 07-27-2014, 11:37 PM   #3
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Have fun and I'd do it. Surely the poundage police will be around!!
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Old 07-27-2014, 11:42 PM   #4
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How far will you be pulling it? I had a GMC 1500 with the 5.3 engine and pulled a 27' Komfort trailer about a thousand miles. The tongue weight was close to a thousand pounds and I put air bags on to level it. Bought a new truck, GMC2500 HD with 8.1 engine, after our first trip.
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Old 07-27-2014, 11:56 PM   #5
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Its not much over your max..... how many miles are you going?

do you have a WD hitch and a brake controller?

I towed about the same weight with my Dakota, it was 1200 over the max, it did fine, I wasn't going to win any races, but I did have a WD hitch, brake controller and a sway bar. I was also on flat land.

If I were towing it all the time I would of used the F250 I have now. On the same end I don't use the 250 for the popup or car hauler, I only use it for my GN horse trailer.

You know more than us how well your truck tows. I know the limits for all of my stuff and use each truck accordingly.



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Old 07-28-2014, 12:14 AM   #6
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The RV we purchased is a bit of a drive, about 550 miles, mostly flat (Michigan to Tennessee). I do have a WD hitch, sway controller, and brake controller.

Which brings up another question, if adjusted properly won't the TT electric brakes do most of the breaking for the TT, and not put extra strain on my truck's brakes?
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Old 07-28-2014, 12:17 PM   #7
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You NEED the WD hitch, sway bar, and brake controller. Other wise you should be ok
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Old 07-28-2014, 12:23 PM   #8
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Do you have a friend that would lend you a larger truck or offer them some cash?
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Old 07-28-2014, 12:36 PM   #9
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If you're going to tow it to a location,where you are going to leave it, and you're concerned with your vehicles capacity. Why not have it professionally towed there?
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Old 07-28-2014, 01:24 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiefGeek View Post
My trailer is a Puma with a dry weight (we won't be adding anything to it while towing) of 8703, and tongue weight of 758.
I would probably make the trip, but only under the following conditions:

1]Remove all the weight possible from the truck for this trip. Tools and jacks and spare tire should be moved to the trailer. No passengers if possible.

2] If your tow vehicle has P-series tires, pump them up to 44 PSI cold.

3] Use the brake controller and WD hitch.

4] Adjust the hitch to have a level trailer, front to rear, when on the road with the spring bars tightened.

5] Plan to tow during daylight hours only. You don't want your headlights blinding oncoming traffic.

6] Don't add any weight to the trailer, other than a few gallons of water so you can flush the pottie while on the road. But shift the weight of items inside the trailer to have a minimum of 10% tongue weight. For example, move the bunk mattresses to the front bed when on the road. If you moved weight from the truck to the trailer per 1] above, put the additional weight in the front of the trailer to help you get a minimum of 10% tongue weight. The dry tongue weight of 8.7% is a disaster waiting to happen, so get it up to at least 10% before you hit the road.

7] Your half-ton pickup will be severely overloaded, which means you must be aware of overheating of the engine and tranny. So be sure the coolant is fresh and full of half and half antifreeze/distilled water. If your truck has a tranny temp gauge, then use it and be sure the tranny temp never gets into the yellow range. If you don't have a tranny temp gauge, then install one before you hit the road. You want one that has the bottom peg at 100 and the top end of about 250 to 280 or less. The red line is 225, so don't allow more than 225. Expect over 200 and as much 210 to 220 when towing. If you see over 210 on that trip, then flush the tranny with new ATF and change the ATF after you finish the trip.

8] If your tranny temp gets into the yellow range or over 225 when on the road, then stop, put the tranny in park, and elevate the engine idle RPM to 1,200 or more until the tranny temp falls back to the green area, or less than about 220.

High tranny temp is almost always caused by towing a heavy trailer with the torque converter unlocked. IOW, too slow a speed to lock the torque converter. So keep the speed up to 45 MPH or more when in hills and mountains and maybe you won't get the tranny temp up to 225.

9] Keep the highway speed down to 60 MPH or less when towing overloaded. This is not a race. If you start the day at sunup during July and August, and stay in the seat, you can be home before sundown without needing the headlights.

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

I'm not an advocate of overloaded towing, but it can be safely done when necessary.
I made a similar one-time trip last fall. 8,000-pound 5er severely overloaded my half-ton pickup. But by following the above guidelines, I made it 350 miles through the Texas Hill Country with no problems.
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Old 07-28-2014, 01:39 PM   #11
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I might add if you want your trans to stay cooler DO NOT USE OVERDRIVE.

Yes I know your going to use more fuel like that.

Would you rather spend a extra $100 on fuel OR $2-$3000 for a trans rebuild.
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Old 07-28-2014, 02:19 PM   #12
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I would suggest you travel on secondary roads. I towed a 5,500lb trailer with a Honda Ridgeline which had a max towing of 5,000lb.

On secondary roads at 45 - 55 mph the truck did ok. On the highway at 65mph it was really a white knuckle scary drive.

This is a no-brainer 1time towing situation there is no need to buy a bigger truck. I do like the idea of seeing if a friend could lend you a bigger truck. Else drive secondary roads.

Good luck
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Old 07-28-2014, 03:12 PM   #13
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I would suggest you travel on secondary roads.
Not practical. Detroit area to Nashville is a straight shot on I-75 and I-65. One long day at 60 MPH if you stay in the seat, stopping only for gas and fast food you eat while making miles. But two very long days if you try to stay off the interstates between Detroit and Nashville.

Poking along holding up traffic on two-lane secondary roads is worse than cruising at a reasonable speed on the interstate. My usual route from Midland to Austin is all secondary roads. But when severely overloaded between Austin and Midland County recently, I chose I-35 and I-10 for two-thirds of the way, then no choice but a secondary state highway for the last third of the trip.

I've towed tens of thousands of miles on interstate highways at 62 MPH dragging a trailer. No problem if you use your brain and stay out of the passing lane.


But back on topic: By WD hitch I assume you mean a WD hitch with built-in sway controls. With less than about 12.5% tongue weight, you definitely want good sway control. Not having adequate sway control is a reason for poking along at 45 MPH. But If you cruise at 60 MPH with good sway controls and at least 10% tongue weight, then you should have no problems that would require a slower speed.
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Old 07-28-2014, 05:22 PM   #14
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Go for it! Many of us use that configuration everyday. You will get many negative responses from those on this forum who have monster trucks pulling monster "mobile" homes. They have to voice that opinion to justify their toys. Just be careful, watch the speed, and keep out of the monster's way.
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