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Old 04-11-2014, 06:22 AM   #71
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Thanks. Having time and a place to do the work is my flaw.
Yeah, that could be a problem
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Old 05-15-2014, 01:23 AM   #72
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any updates? curious how you are liking the new mods while towing.
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Old 05-15-2014, 11:25 PM   #73
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any updates? curious how you are liking the new mods while towing.
Doing great!!! I'm out putting the new Mustangs to shame.
I just did a run from Seattle to San Francisco hauling a trailer weighing in at 5000# and I could hardly tell it was hooked on. I only used the 20hp tow mode and it screamed up the hills. I had to watch the pyro temp though, if I put my foot into it. The tranny never got over 150 degrees, even in the extreme heat we had yesterday and today.

I do need to learn more on the use of the Decel mode. Although I didn't need it for this run. I do wish I had a 6 speed trany. These old 4 speed shifts hard under load.

So far, I'm pleased!
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Old 05-23-2014, 07:51 PM   #74
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This is an old posting, but it's very timely. The suggestions posted are right on the money--especially SmokeyWren's as he really knows his stuff.

I have a 9/02 production 7.3 SuperDuty--one of the last. It would just chirp the rear tires from a standing start until I installed an 80 hp econo ECU flash from D-P Tuners outside of Atlanta. Now, I can get up to 20 mph and stomp the pedal--and see two long black streaks of rubber behind me. It's now a tire squealer from a dead stop, and even dangerous on wet roads. And I get 20 mpg on the open road unloaded.

Whoever badmouthed the 7.3 performance doesn't have any idea what he's talking about. Yes, this is old school fuel injection, but it's also very dependable as it never saw a Ford dealers' service department. My F250 7.3 crewcab 2wd runs from 60 mph to 80 mph in 4 seconds flat, and that's quick enough for anyone's passing gear.

Budget truck mods should be done in this order:
1. Different air intake, preferably the Ford HD unit made by Donaldson. Otherwise, install a NAPA 6637 air filter with a 4" x 4" steel tubing in place of the old air cleaner.
2. Change the exhaust--either using a 4" generic exhaust system or replacing the original muffler with a Walker 21470.
3. Set of gauges--pyrometer, boost gauge and tranny gauge.
4. TruKool auxillary tranny cooler
5. D-P Tuner--F5 programmer (140+ specialized tunes available)

The above changes can be made relatively inexpensive, and it makes a 7.3 SuperDuty a completely new truck. And at all times, a chipped truck must have brakes and suspensions kept at 100% condition, because a 6600 pound truck putting out 700 ft. pounds of torque or more is a real handful for someone with marginal driving skills.

If you're going to be towing 13K or more, you're looking at heavy hitch weights, and you've got to go to air suspension at a minimum. But much heavier, and duals are required--F350 or heavier.
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Old 06-24-2014, 12:08 AM   #75
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OK, here's the latest.
I've made 3 trips between Seattle and San Francisco Bay Area, coming to about 5000 miles. Once with the 5er and twice with a 6 x 12' cargo trailer fully loaded.

The trany hardly ever gets over 160 degrees even through the Valley, but did get up to 200 once while trying to back the 5er into a soft bay.

The pyrometer, I do have to keep an eye on it pulling a load up the hills. But I found using the 20 hp towing mode is my best option for towing them all. If I use the 40 or 80 hp modes the pyro just goes up faster, in which I just have to back off sooner. With the 20 I feel comfortable pushing the limit a bit.

In the 80 mode once I wasn't watching the pyro because of traffic and it climbed into the red (1250 degrees), which started blowing grey dust out the tailpipe. I assume it started burning the carbon off the pistons. It was only for a couple seconds but I could imagine what would happen if I continued.
If I get aggressive then I'll use the 40/80 modes for short and quick entrees on the freeway.

I've only seen the boost pressure go above 15 when I've punched it a few times but the pyro climbs up, so I have to back off anyway.

I got 10.5 mpg pulling the 5er and 15 mpg pulling the trailers. And around 16 mpg unloaded. This is with a 410 rear end/4R100 trany.

What I really don't like are the hard shifts when changing back into OD after pulling a hill. Now I shift it into neutral, then the switch back into OD and then the lever back into Drive. That makes for a smooth transition.
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Old 06-24-2014, 06:32 AM   #76
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That all sounds really good. I think you are right keeping the tune in the 20hp zone. Hitting 1250 occasionally is fine, its keeping it above that for a long time that will start to melt stuff. Sounds like you are doing everything just right.

I have similar issues with my 7.3 regarding EGT temps. Yours are because of the weight, mine is because of my larger tires and stock gear ratios. Either way, the one thing that really helped my EGT's on long hills was the new billet compressor wheel. I know we discussed this earlier in this thread, but just for comparison sake, I build 23 to 24 psi while climbing. More air in a diesel makes for lower EGT's. Another thing to look at is your waste gate actuator, they are known to bleed off early due to weak springs. There are several ways to correct this, one simple way is to unplug the red vacuum line. The actuator will still work on spring pressure, but it wont have the vacuum assist. As long as you stay below 25psi on a stock turbo you will be fine.

As for the transmission shifting.... I would say talk to Jody at DP and see what he can do for you.

Everything sounds like you have it well under control and a great rig. Just trying to give you some other things to think about if you wish.
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Old 06-24-2014, 06:44 AM   #77
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it climbed into the red (1250 degrees), which started blowing grey dust out the tailpipe. I assume it started burning the carbon off the pistons. It was only for a couple seconds but I could imagine what would happen if I continued.

EGTs above 1250*F aren't bad for a few seconds, maybe 10. But the higher you go and the longer you are there, the more chance there is to melt something.

What I really don't like are the hard shifts when changing back into OD after pulling a hill. Now I shift it into neutral, then the switch back into OD and then the lever back into Drive. That makes for a smooth transition.

Are they hard shifts or firm? You want firm, but not slamming/banging shifts.
I would NOT shift into N then into D, you're creating a lot of heat and wear doing that. More than letting it shift normally.
In red.
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Old 06-24-2014, 07:50 PM   #78
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1250 degrees is perfectly safe EGT for as long as you want to keep it there. If you restrict yourself to always keeping it lower you are just not getting the power the engine will safely make. Been there-done that. I had a 6.9 with a aftermarket turbo in a 27' Class C and pulled long hills at 1350 all the time.
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Old 06-25-2014, 07:03 PM   #79
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What I really don't like are the hard shifts when changing back into OD after pulling a hill. Now I shift it into neutral, then the switch back into OD and then the lever back into Drive. That makes for a smooth transition.
If not already done so leave the transmission out of OD (OD off light on) until you have crested the hill and leveled out. Once the truck has settled then use the OD button to command 4th gear again. I would also not recommend shifting into neutral when moving and back into gear.
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Old 06-26-2014, 10:13 AM   #80
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If not already done so leave the transmission out of OD (OD off light on) until you have crested the hill and leveled out. Once the truck has settled then use the OD button to command 4th gear again. I would also not recommend shifting into neutral when moving and back into gear.
I've tried that several times and it kicked into OD pretty hard each time even when it seems I'm coasting. Ive tried switching back after I'm already on the down hill and it seems just as bad.

When I switch into neutral, it is when I'm coasting, not under load. It's just for a second or two, just long enough to reset the OD, then back into drive. It a very smooth transaction without any noise or jerks.

There was a time, on this last trip, I crested the hill and coasted, then brought the engine up to what I thought was the running RPM, and it did shift a lot better. I'll have to try that some more to be sure it wasn't a fluke.
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Old 06-26-2014, 10:30 AM   #81
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What you are describing is a programming tweak that can be corrected...

when I had my tuned 7.3, it shifted fine and I USED OD 99% of the time without issue, towing or not (BUT, BIG BUTT ! we are mostly in Texas and, it's all relative, but the hill country is not really hilly
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Old 06-26-2014, 07:53 PM   #82
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I've tried that several times and it kicked into OD pretty hard each time even when it seems I'm coasting. Ive tried switching back after I'm already on the down hill and it seems just as bad.

When I switch into neutral, it is when I'm coasting, not under load. It's just for a second or two, just long enough to reset the OD, then back into drive. It a very smooth transaction without any noise or jerks.

There was a time, on this last trip, I crested the hill and coasted, then brought the engine up to what I thought was the running RPM, and it did shift a lot better. I'll have to try that some more to be sure it wasn't a fluke.
That can be retuned. You might have a modded valve body in the trans too.
Mine shifts a lot more firm than stock, and some people think it's too hard.
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Old 06-26-2014, 11:49 PM   #83
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So, I guess a good question would be "how hard is too hard?

What I feel is too hard is if it feels like someone tagged my bumper. And that's how it's shifting when I go back in to OD.
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Old 06-27-2014, 06:46 AM   #84
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Tagged? Honestly, I'd have to feel it to tell you.
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