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Old 09-12-2018, 12:38 PM   #1
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Please check my numbers before I go buy a new truck.

Truck numbers:
GVWR 6900
RGAWR 3900
FGAWR 3700

Trailer:
Dry 5560
Dry hitch 560
Gross 7250

CAT Scale:
Front 3280
Rear 3640
Trailer 5620

I didn't drop the trailer to check tongue weight since I was over GVWR. In the truck was me, wife and 3 dogs. In bed was <1000 lbs dog crates, dog containment and pop up shade. Actually guess closer to 600 lbs.

I could possibly move some weight to the trailer but that would be a major hassle and of course some of that weight would be on the tongue.

Thinking I need to upgrade to a 2500.

What are your thoughts?
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Old 09-12-2018, 02:18 PM   #2
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Without that third weight we have no idea what tongue weight you have or if the hitch could move some weight back to the trailer. Since you are only over by 20 pounds and are well under the axle limits I think that is doable. Get the third weight and post all weight tickets and the picture of the loading sticker from the drivers side door jamb, (yellow sticker), and we can tell you exactly how much room you have.
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Old 09-12-2018, 02:19 PM   #3
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Are you just trying to justify a new truck? You're showing 20lbs over the truck's GVWR. Were you empty of fuel and missing a bunch of stuff you normally take? 'Cause I wouldn't worry about 20lbs because that's within the margin of error on the scale. If you are worried about 20lbs, you could probably transfer that weight off the truck and back to the trailer axle simply by adjusting the WDH (tilt the head down or add a washer...).


If you are trying to justify a new truck, a properly equipped half ton would more than suffice for that trailer...
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Old 09-12-2018, 03:20 PM   #4
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The major concern really was that was coming home we had clothes and a little food in the camper and only 1/2 tank of gas, all tanks empty. I saw over GVW and thought if we were fully loaded, full gas and water, and added anything we'd be pushing safe limits. I can't see how we can have much on the tongue carrying no fresh water (front of axles) and very little gear.

Sorry, I should have posted loading info.
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Old 09-12-2018, 03:52 PM   #5
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Front and rear axle weights in the truck look good. As due the trailer axles. I'd say your fine. You have 260 available on your rear axle weight to accomdate fuel etc.
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Old 09-12-2018, 03:55 PM   #6
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Here are calcs I ran ahead of time.

This started my concerns.


Curb Weight 5,120.00
GVWR 6,900.00
GCVWR 13,800.00
Payload 1,780.00
Towing Capacity 8,210.00

Estimated Payload
Passengers 500.00
Cargo 200.00
Total payload (minus hitch weight) 700.00

Hitched
Available Payload 330.00 19%
New GVW 6,570.00 95%
NEW GCVW 13,070.00 95%
Towing Capcity 8,210.00 79%
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Old 09-12-2018, 07:28 PM   #7
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If you want a new truck go buy one but dont make it over a couple pounds. Thats the equivalant of 3 gallons of water.
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Old 09-12-2018, 08:30 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jshopes81 View Post
If you want a new truck go buy one but dont make it over a couple pounds. Thats the equivalant of 3 gallons of water.
Actually, I'd rather not buy a new truck.

I'm 100% on gross weight rating of the truck and 93% on rear axle rating.

So no one thinks there should be any margin for safety?
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Old 09-12-2018, 10:01 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beowolf View Post
Actually, I'd rather not buy a new truck.

I'm 100% on gross weight rating of the truck and 93% on rear axle rating.

So no one thinks there should be any margin for safety?

Ahh that mythical margin of safety........Wait a long enough time and I'm sure someone will tell you "can never have too much truck" and "I wouldn't tow that without a 1 ton diesel dually". Give it time...

Your under axle weights, and GCWR and basically on the nose with the truck GVWR.
On most trailers the fresh water tank is directly over the axles so they largely won't affect the truck too much.
Obviously future changes such as additional cargo, additional passengers, or a bigger trailer would necessitate a upgrade.

If your happy with how it tows (many aren't) then I would just run it - a 3/4 will tow it more easily, but then you have to drive around a 3/4 ton. *shrug*.
If your really concerned, re-weight with that full tank of fuel and full tanks and see. As you mentioned, you can always move cargo into the trailer if you need to adjust further, and while it can be a pain, it certainly is cheaper then a new truck.
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Old 09-12-2018, 11:53 PM   #10
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There is safety margin built into the weights they give you. Those are the safe working limits of the vehicle given certain criteria, durability being one of them. Your truck can tow and stop 20k lbs but its also got to consider how many times or for how long. They dont want to sell you a truck that will be in for a transmission every 5000 miles while towing what they said it could and have to warranty it.

There are some things you can do also to make your vehicle tow better too other than just getting a new truck. Uprated tures instead of suv or lt tires will help squirrelyness, making sure your hitch is adjusted right, correct air pressure, where weight is loaded has a huge impact. You do not want to have to stand on the toungue of a trailer to get it to latch. Been there done that it sucks to drive. Also, a set of tow mirrors helps alot. I got used to west coast style mirrors on petes and kennys and cant stand anything else.

Personally practice and experience help the most. Know what to expect when an 18 wheeler is passing you, know how tight you can turn, how to back in a 100yd straight line, back around a corner. Have control of the trailer and know it. A bigger truck may make you feel a little better, but more truck doesnt help you know what your doing.
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Old 09-13-2018, 12:27 AM   #11
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They build 19 lbs in to trucks for a safety margin. You're only 1 lb over. Don't sweat it.
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Old 09-13-2018, 05:59 AM   #12
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If you want a new truck, go for it. Unless you have put undersized tires on it you are legal. Sure, a vehicle that runs a 70% of rating will last longer than one running at 110%. But what percentage of the time you are driving the TV will you be towing? A working person towing with her daily driver will likely be towing less than 10% of the miles. You might want to mount heavier duty tires on the rear when due for tires.
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Old 09-13-2018, 08:20 AM   #13
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Thank you all.

The truck seemed to pull fine, it worked on some not too steep hills and such but it's a strong engine. I live and travel in the east so not much in the way of real mountains. We may make a trip or 2 to the Smokies but even that's nothing like the western mountains.

I was concerned about the numbers but several posts helped to reduce those fears. I've read so many posts, articles, etc. that go on about safety margins, overloading vehicles, etc. My wife actually was very much worried about the weight. We were getting some "porpoising" so she started Googling and found several articles saying that was a symptom of overloading. I was thinking new shocks or air bags.

So, do I want a new truck? Well yeah, who doesn't? But I'm a cheapskate and don't want to pay for a new truck. I did find a nice deal on a new 2500 Laramie, but even at a deal it's $45k.

There's a truck stop real close so I may go play with some loads and see where everything falls. I need to spend some time thinking about anything we may want to add weight wise as well.
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:22 AM   #14
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I ran right at RAWR on a 2010 F150 for 2.5 years. I know thats not very long. But a hundred pounds here or there would never be noticed.
I also ran 100-200 lbs over GVWR for 6 years on my previous truck (12 2500 CTD). I was under the RAWR by 1100+/- lbs. Handled fantastic.
Being over a small amount shouldn't hurt a thing.
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