Ram 1500 set up...what's max length?

[JayNC]

My Current Rig

2017 Ram 1500. 4wd/hemi shortbed. Max by sticker 10,100.
Currently towing my new 15 foot / 2500 pound TT. Works unusually well. You can forget it's back there most of the time. Averages 14-15 MPG towing! (very surprised how little MPG suffered).

My question...does length also influence weight? I had a tech say that "...it don't matter...you can't tow anythin' longer than 28 feet...'It'll weigh too much!" WTH?? Anybody ever heard that? I was confused by what he was laying on me...

Jay

[happyvibe]

With the RAM 1500 the thing that will limit your towing will be your payload. My 2013 Bighorn only has 1100lbs so with my 27ft total trailer at 6000lbs I am maxed out on payload but way under on max trailer weight (8400lbs). The length of the trailer has to do with the wheelbase of the truck. The longer the TV wheel base the more stable it will be with a longer trailer. The exact length is up for debate. You will get some people that say anything over a popup you need a 3/4 ton truck. The main thing you need to look at all your weights for your exact truck. With my truck my tow rating dropped by 100 lbs because I have ramboxes. Where did you get the 10100 lbs from the tow rating is not usual on the sticker.

[MorganT69]

I pull a 29 ft living, more like 32' tongue to bumper, it weighs right at 4500# with my Ford F-150 and tow at 75 mph no problem with my weight distribution hitch with sway control and its well within my tow rating.

[Normal_Dave]

When properly equipped, I think for a gas engine truck, the Ram is quite a decent performer. Trailer weight (loaded) and tongue weight vs. payload capacity in the truck are most important, length not so much, except maybe big winds out West, and if they get that big, most seek shelter anyhow.

As far as your truck goes, is it a crew cab, what gear ratio, and transmission does it have? Find yours here. Best setup is 3.92 with either 6-speed or 8-speed putting your above 10K max trailer weight. You said sticker was 10,100 so you already answered...
https://www.ramtrucks.com/assets/tow...ing_charts.pdf

As you probably already know, the Hemi is happiest when revving at or above maximum torque rpms, and "in the neighborhood" of max horsepower rpms when towing, especially nearing hills of course. The beauty of the modern transmissions is the ability to easily stay in that "happy place" by choosing gears manually if needed. The Hemi, however can be a little thirsty on fuel when working hard. Let it rev up when needed, it's made to run.

I'm guessing you still have your window sticker, but if not, enter your VIN right after the "=" mark in this link:
https://www.chrysler.com/hostd/windo...TD5DT0CG244421

Also for fun, do the same to get your actual build sheet list for your truck:
https://www.ramtrucks.com/webselfser...etServlet?vin=

Sounds like you need to keep your RV tech and your truck tech in separate yards... or just find a new RV tech...

[keymastr]

Ram 1500s have the lowest payload of the big 3 trucks. The nicer they are the less they can tow. If you have a stripped down tradesman you will have more cargo capacity than a Big Horn because of the weight of the options. Some have barely over 1000 pounds. Then you must subtract the weight of the hitch head and passengers and cargo carried in the truck such as tools and firewood. Might only have 700 pounds left to carry tongue weight which would leave you at a 5000 pound gross weight trailer, maybe 3800 dry weight.

Remember to use gross trailer weight and multiply that by 13% to get real world tongue weights. That 3800 pound dry trailer will have an advertised tongue weight of 500 pounds but when you load it for camping it will be close to 700.

There are certainly people towing far heavier trailers than that with Ram 1500s. I have a neighbor who tows a Timber Ridge that weighs over 8000 but I would not recommend it.

[ricndot]

Originally Posted by keymastr

There are certainly people towing far heavier trailers than that with Ram 1500s. I have a neighbor who tows a Timber Ridge that weighs over 8000 but I would not recommend it.

didn't know we were neighbors
our hemi 1500 with 3.92/6 spd did a very respectable job @ towing our creekside 23rks and our present tt which is about 1200 pounds heavier. yes, at times we were over our gvwr and/or rgawr by a couple hundred pounds or so, but never any scary moments in the 20k miles we towed with it. guess we were lucky?
we towed in 4th gear turning around 23-2400 rpm @ 60mph. 95% of the time. don't recall EVER turning past 4k rpms even on a 10% grade! of course the speed limit was 45mph to.
after our last long trip we found a leaking torque converter and front pump. it was repaired under the 100k powertrain warranty but i could read the handwriting on the wall. it was time to upgrade the tow rig to something that doesn't even breath hard under similar conditions.
yep...fond memories of that 1500 but now we have entered a whole NEW realm

[JayNC]

Originally Posted by happyvibe

The main thing you need to look at all your weights for your exact truck. With my truck my tow rating dropped by 100 lbs because I have ramboxes. Where did you get the 10100 lbs from the tow rating is not usual on the sticker.

Saw that about the Ram Boxes too...Strange.

Max Tow 10,060 pounds (My Trailer 2480 pounds dry)
Max Payload 1390 pounds (My tongue weight is 318 pounds dry)
I figured that's around 3500 total wet. (I don't carry in the truck). My wet tongue weight is @455 pounds.

So..I 'should' have scads of weight left....1390 pound payload minus tongue and misc cargo leaves 500 pounds...still plenty. when the tech said anything LONGER than 28 feet was too heavy it confused me.


JayNC

[R2millers]

Originally Posted by JayNC

when the tech said anything LONGER than 28 feet was too heavy it confused me.
JayNC

Yes, the general rule is the longer the heavier, however, other factors such as if it's a 5 th wheel, toy trailer, or and ultralight- aluminum framed unit can all change its tow rating.

I'd review the gcwr weight rating with the truck and trailer you're using to get an accurate "combined" total weight.

Nothing better then jumping on the scales for best info and comfort.

[guy65]

I have a 2014 crew cab SLT 4x4, but the 6'4 bed. my max tow is 7850# and payload somewhat above 1480#.
My Camper is 35' long (overall length tongue to bumper) but it's a light weight trailer. dry weight is 6000#. We did the deal, because we know, we never will tow with full tanks. I also put all heavy and dirty stuff, like grill, outside tables, gravity chairs, fan, carpets, firewood, etc... in the bed. It's just me and my wife and 2 doggies, so we're good. The trailer also has a larger wheel base between the 2 trailer axles. This stabilizes the ride a lot.
I was at the scale with a typical load, like we go to the lake and the trailer weight was 7750# - basically close to max tow. The tongue weight is 900#, leaves me ~500# in the bed, for my wife (~100#) and the dogs. so we're good. I use a equalizer 4-point wdh and the whole rig rides like a dream. no sway and even when a tractor trailer passes, it stays on the road like on rails.
We do not pull long distances anyway- my wife hates it- the longest we did, was up into the Georgia mountains and to Tennessee Pigeon Forge. Both trips ~250 miles distance. I would not hesitate to go further with it- the truck pulls- the motor with the 8-speed is a dream and even though I have the 3.21 gear, I barely feel the camper behind me- only when it goes up the hill. My grandpa had a trucking company and later a driving school and he taught me, how to let the engine work- which lets the fuel mileage average at ~13-14mpg while towing. The 3.21 gear in combination with the 8-speed is similar to the old 6 speed with 3.55 gear ratio.
This should answer your questions. Don't worry- it'll do it.
The only thing I would recommend- the springs in the rear are linear and not progressive. this leads to a relative deep sag, which is not in a safety concern range. But I would consider either air bags or some progressive springs- both should be around $2-300. the springs are 15 minutes work per side, if you smoke a cigarette and drink a beer in between.
Good luck.
edit: RAM has a confusing tow capacity information. The older RAM's- before 2014 had a way lower tow capacity, because they where rated through a old system. Unfortunately, it is, what it is. 2014 there was a big jump, as RAM used the same system like the other companies and even though identical, suddenly, you could pull with a 2014 and newer truck 2000# more than before. This is to consider, when buying new. It's not, that the truck can handle it, but to stay legal.
Due to that- just also consider, that people telling you, they travel with 75mph and more down the road- your tires at the camper are usually not rated for those speeds. IMO- if you travel with a trailer in vacation- it's not a race, where you win a price, when you arrive first. If you have no time or patience to keep it slow and steady, a tow behind or fifth wheel is the wrong choice- there I would consider a motorhome. I let it usually roll at 60-65mph and I do not have depressions, when I get passed by transfer trucks. Therefore, I might be 10 minutes longer on the road, but I'm safe and my truck thanks it with great mpg.

[lcboy]

My brother in law pulls a 34 ft 7090 lb camper with his f150 and pulls good. He added coil over shocks for the sag in the rear. He pulled his camper yesterday from Louisiana to Florida yesterday and got 10 1/2 miles to the gallon doing 65.

[Dropthejacks]

I had a 2014 RAM Bighorn CC 4x4 which had a tow rating of 8K. We pulled a 29', 4300 lb Starcraft with ease. Then we purchased a 33' Open Range weighing in "dry" at a reported 6300 lbs from a dealership in the mountains. I found out on the way home that I had overdone it. I would pass a tractor trailer going downhill, he would pass me back going up the next hill. To maintain highway speeds I was really having to rev the motor and knew that it would not take a whole lot of that to wear the truck out. Two weeks later a 2500 Cummins RAM was sitting in the drive. I liked the 1500, drove smooth and with the lighter trailer it was great. But I feel 6K lbs was about max I would be comfortable pulling with it.

[MorganT69]

I reckon Im a little confused here, if you are using a Load equalizer hitch, why would you be getting sag in the rear end unless you are referring to pulling a Fifth wheel. I thought he was referring to a Travel Trailer. The load equalizer hitch should keep the truck level.

[guy65]

Originally Posted by MorganT69

I reckon Im a little confused here, if you are using a Load equalizer hitch, why would you be getting sag in the rear end unless you are referring to pulling a Fifth wheel. I thought he was referring to a Travel Trailer. The load equalizer hitch should keep the truck level.

not if the springs are at the softer side- the ram took the attribute to be the smoothest ride- but this does not come without any negative sides- which is in this case little more sag than the older models with leaf springs. this can be easy solved by using progressive springs without any comfort issues- the spring is just getting harder, the more the vehicle sags. this has nothing to do with the lift off weight at the front axle- the ram still has enough weight to stay safe on the road- it just looks unusual. I had mixed feelings, as I hooked my camper up the first time, but after driving, I am not concerned at all no more- it was just a little annoying to answer all those stupid comments- of course mostly from people not driving a RAM.
In my opinion, RAM should offer at least in combination with the tow package progressive springs- but this would be a lot of money until it's approved by the commission. Therefore- it's a $300 and 30 minutes investment, what pays very well off.
I attached a picture, for you to see, how it looks like. But it's also not as bad as it sounds.
Btw- because of the RAM's structure you see it more- but all other trucks having the same issue- usually the suspension is too soft to keep the comfort. that's why a lot of Ford- and Chevy owners adding a leaf to the spring, which is nothing else than installing a progressive coil spring. It's more to stabilize your rear end, which helps to prevent sway. The reason for a wdh is not to prevent sag- it's to prevent the front axle of the tow vehicle loosing too much weight and therefore traction. regardless of what you do to prevent sag- if your tongue weight is too high, you loose too much weight at the front axle- if you have wdh or not. From this point of view, even with original setup- the RAM is safe. and if it says, you can have 1K# tongue weight, it's safe if you use it.

[MorganT69]

The picture is small but I can see the sag, on my Ford with the WDH my front end moves 1/8" up and my rear end stays at the same height, thats why I was confused. But then again its like comparing Apples to Oranges.