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Old 04-26-2016, 08:07 AM   #57
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"You seemed very sure that the damage you've see to truck beds mostly were with Reese hitches. Please don't bash a particular hitch; in this case, Reese."

I "seemed" very sure??? What is that supposed to mean? I am reporting what I have noticed over MANY years of camping and full timing for 5 years now. The VAST majority are this style of REESE hitch with the high handle.

I will ASSUME you are a REESE hitch owner since you are accusing me of "Bashing". I made a simple statement saying there seems to be a problem with this type of hitch, that's ALL.

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Old 04-26-2016, 10:40 AM   #58
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The "ruckus" room is closed.

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Old 04-26-2016, 02:59 PM   #59
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A high pinned hitch is usually obsrrvable due to daylight between hitch plate and trailer.
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Old 04-26-2016, 03:05 PM   #60
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I cannot understand how they can lay it on Ford. All they do is mount it to the bed . The mechinism of the hitch has nothing to do with Ford. I would just deal with your insurance co and let them determine who is at fault .
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Old 04-26-2016, 03:07 PM   #61
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Lube plates come in 2 different thicknesses.
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Old 04-26-2016, 04:04 PM   #62
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The Hitch Inspection

I had my Reese hitch inspected today by a local hitch installation company that my insurance company had contacted. I have worked with this company before, not with this hitch but a Blue Ox I had when towing my jeep with my Class A. They are a class act so I trust them.

He took the time to inspect it well and took it off the mount to inspect underneath. He said these hitches are so basic and really are idiot proof, and his conclusion is that there is absolutely nothing wrong with the hitch. He also grabbed a loose kingpin and showed me how you can high pin it and how it would look in this hitch. There was nearly an inch of space between the hitch plate and the king pin plate. There is absolutely no way you could miss that unless you were completely not paying attention. Not to mention, there is no way the safety pin can be inserted, like it was, if the hitch isn't correctly connected. I had inspected it, pulled it out of the camping space so it was straight and level on asphalt and inspected it again. There is no way I high pinned before this hitch failed. The pin box was resting completely on the hitch plate and there was no daylight between them. He said with this hitch, if it were high pinned, it most likely would have disconnected fairly quickly and even if it didn't, it would have made such a banging racket with the king pin not secured, there is no way I could not hear it, and there is certainly no way I could have towed for 60 miles without it coming apart. He had no explanation for why the kingpin came out. Side note, the hitch mount is made in Mexico and the hitch itself is made in China...

So good news is, I know my trailer was connected properly and I didn't do anything wrong that caused this. THIS REESE HITCH FAILED. Bad news is, it's my word against the hitch's, which shows no issues, so there is no definitive reason on what caused it to fail.

My only card left to play is to try and recreate the failure, on video. Trailer is in same condition as when it failed, so I'm going to video hooking it up this weekend, take it back to my street where it failed, put it in the same position, and hope it pops out again while being recorded. I will retry it 12 times until it does. If I don't have that kind of proof, insurance is going to make me at fault when I'm not. Ford could care less either way, and as I said before, Reese wants nothing to do with it, puts it on Ford.

I was mistaken about one thing, my hitch is not an 18K, it's a 26K, so being possibly overweight was not a cause either. The installer said this type hitch is one of the best and beefiest hitches out there. Except for this one of course. If I can't get it to fail again on video, insurance won't pay for a new hitch if it isn't damaged or proved defective, so I get to spend my own $1200 on a new one, probably a Kurt or B&W. If I caused this, I would just admit it and save me some money. I would have done that in the first place and I sure wouldn't blow $1200 to replace a perfectly good hitch. But this one is defective and there is no way I can continue to tow with it. Hopefully I can get it to fail again this weekend and prove it.
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Old 04-27-2016, 10:42 AM   #63
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Sorry for your problems with your REESE. I have heard your same story so many times over the years. Like I said there is something about these hitches!

I would advise you just sell your hitch since there is no way you are going to feel confident using it again.

IMHO the B&W hitch is about as foolproof and durable of a hitch that there is.

Simple handle close, no color code or anything else that you have to confirm. Just close the handle, lock it and be sure the kingpin and hitch plates are touching and the 1" machined jaws are closed around the kingpin. That's it, it's hitched.

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Old 04-27-2016, 07:18 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by jacknife View Post
A high pinned hitch is usually obsrrvable due to daylight between hitch plate and trailer.
Not with all hitches.
I've seen high pin on a 42k SAF Holland hitch that had no daylight as you call it. Many high pins happen especially on unlevel campgrounds/worksites where the truck leans one way and the trailer the other. This was common when all 5th wheel hitches pivoted fore and aft only.
The 4 way pivot was a big help to those of us who camped in primitive areas.

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Old 04-28-2016, 12:45 PM   #65
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Why not look at a BD3. Customer service is great. The product is heavily constructed and they have a payment plan so the cost to purchase is less of a one time hit.
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Old 04-28-2016, 02:42 PM   #66
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New Twist

Ahhh, the saga continues...

My plan is to correctly connect my trailer to my truck (like before), and put them in the same condition and configuration they were in before, and see if the hitch fails, again. Only this time video the connection, and the subsequent failure I expect to happen.

My insurance has determined based on the inspection of the hitch, which showed no defects, that I am at fault in this incident. However, they have warned me that if I attempt to recreate this incident and the hitch fails, any additional damages will not be covered. I'm confused. I am going to properly connect my trailer (to a hitch my insurance has declared not defective) and tow it within normal conditions and allowances. How could I be responsible if that non-defective hitch fails and causes additional damage?

Sorry, you can't have it both ways. I am going to be listed at fault because the hitch shows no defects. But if I tow with the hitch again and it fails, I will be responsible for any additional damages? If the hitch is not defective and I did something wrong that caused this incident, why would insurance be concerned if I towed with this hitch again. You either believe the hitch is defective and I'm not, or the other way around.

Of course, if I can't get the hitch to fail again, then I am at a loss because I am certain I didn't connect wrong. I certainly can't continue to tow with this hitch-so thanks for all of your advice on replacements. [moderator edit]
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Old 04-28-2016, 02:54 PM   #67
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Sorry to hear that. Hope things get fixed quick and you can get back out there.
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Old 04-28-2016, 03:54 PM   #68
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Twinboat, I use a lube plate too but I think tomorrow my pin might get a little grease before I hook up. I had not thought about that friction.
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Old 04-28-2016, 04:43 PM   #69
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Tombstoner - with all the video equipment like 'Go Pro' I think your approch to recreate the failure is a good approch.

The Reese Elite hitch has the 4 way pivot head. I do use grease on the pin but just on the pin with the Teflon plate.

Good luck...or bad luck again.
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Old 04-29-2016, 08:05 AM   #70
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Tombstoner, if you do plan on recreating the accidental unhitching of the RV from your TV, could you possibly let the front jacks down until they're just a few inches from touching the pavement to prevent the RV from doing further damage to your truck? That is "IF" it comes loose again. Just wondering.....and wishing you the best for whatever the final result.

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